OEM Driving lamps are sh....Stedi C4 cubes

neenaw

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ite.

Constantly fighting with the bloody things, flicker/fail....usual water ingress. Done nearly 30k so I guess I count moan too much, stupidly priced to replace too.

Which leads me to these

https://stediuk.com/collections/motorcycle-lights/products/stedi-c-4-black-edition-led-light-cube

The road stuff for cars is simply unreal, having seen them on a Volvo recently, compared to the Denali product they do seem very well priced. If they are a fraction of the quality of the car stuff they are a bargain.

Now, with the CANBUS etc, and my lack of sparky knowledge, has anyone carried out a direct swap over from from OEM to aftermarket like this so they work with the BMW button etc.... Or is that just a faff and just wire them in on a separate circuit/switch.? I'm sure there is the odd light guru creeping around.
 
You would be better off using a Hex Ezcan to power and control them

7 second built in delay with the Ezcan, not good at 60 mph down a dark road. Wire into a separate switch if you can, much better.
 
ite.

Constantly fighting with the bloody things, flicker/fail....usual water ingress. Done nearly 30k so I guess I count moan too much, stupidly priced to replace too.

Which leads me to these

https://stediuk.com/collections/motorcycle-lights/products/stedi-c-4-black-edition-led-light-cube

The road stuff for cars is simply unreal, having seen them on a Volvo recently, compared to the Denali product they do seem very well priced. If they are a fraction of the quality of the car stuff they are a bargain.

Now, with the CANBUS etc, and my lack of sparky knowledge, has anyone carried out a direct swap over from from OEM to aftermarket like this so they work with the BMW button etc.... Or is that just a faff and just wire them in on a separate circuit/switch.? I'm sure there is the odd light guru creeping around.

By Driving lights I asume you refer to the external AUX lights rather than the built in Driving light....

If the bike is pre Nano lights (-16 or older), this is doable. However, there will probably be limitations to the maximum power output that will limit the additional power needed in order to improve the output compared to the OEM lights...
The Nano type AUXlights introduced in -17 and on include an internal circuit reporting a lamp failure. Diconnecting or replacing these lights will throw an internal error that is not showing on the dash, but will block for any further software updates.

So, this was the long version of @fredaroony's short but to the point reply :beerjug:
 
It’s a 2015 1200LC. I’m going towards a separate circuit and switch I reckon.
 
The Stedi car stuff is certainly big ticket prices, these seem very much cheaper.
On the plus’s side they claim genuine Cree leds but the stated draw of 2.1 amps at 13.6v needs to be magic to achieve ample power to 4x10w leds

And they look really big for a bike….
 
I thought that too, I’ve emailed the Euro Rep, apparently no one’s put them on a bike before that he is aware. Probably a reason for that!

I’ll see.
 
Call me a cynic, BUT, they claim to be Uk company but there’s no address. Suspicious
 
7 second built in delay with the Ezcan, not good at 60 mph down a dark road. Wire into a separate switch if you can, much better.

?????

My Denali lights are instant using the Hexcan :nenau
 
Its seems the emfuckkery just won't be worth the ball ache, Denali route with Ez it is.....
 
Hi Robbi

Just want to clarify here, the ezCAN operates at the speed your CAN bus operates, generally invisible delays to the naked eye. Considering that things like turn signal and brakes are considered top priority messages, the CAN bus transmits these on almost all bikes, at around 10-20 milliseconds. Things like accessory times outs (detecting when the bus finally goes to sleep) might take around 1-2 seconds, but that's just not a "priority" message.
 


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