Off to Iran, at last

[simondippenhall]

Baggers and Davey - thanks for the feedback and glad you find it interesting. It's been a great trip so far, with the key being the Iranian people.

Yesterday I had to find a way to print a legal document and get my signature witnessed- on a Friday (like old time Easter Sunday) that's not easy! (I am executor for my father in law's estate and this was of some urgency).

All the shops were closed but I found an open travel agency by the mosque. The lady there printed off the 14 page document I emailed her and witnessed me signing it. I had made clear all along that I wanted to pay for this, but she refused all payment!

Now to mail it home - enquiries so far suggest the courier concept a la DHL is unfamiliar here - at least, in the oasis town where I am at present! Hoping a scanned copy will do the job.

But another example of the kindness of strangers.


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[simondippenhall]

In Iran. Some machines are not properly sterilised. The locals are immune to the bugs, but we from the West are not. 26 years on, I am still living with the consequences, though only on an occasional basis in recent years.
If it comes from a factory you are ok.

Myke

Myke: just spotted your post and, again, thanks! Don't worry, I avoid whipped ice cream in the UK and am certainly avoiding it here! Hoping one Delhi-belly incident already will be my lot. Currently sat on a little carpeted platform enjoying my supper and a jug of dugh (yogurt, herbs and water)

 

[simondippenhall]

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[simondippenhall]

Apart from riding past sand, I did manage a culture visit to the old mosque Jameh (Friday) in Naeim


I should also say that despite the apparent aridity of the desert there is clearly lots of well irrigated agriculture and strung along the road were people selling these beautiful pomegranates



One of the best bits was the cool and cavernous basement


Quite a few Iranian students there


Leaving there I saw the first foreign tourist motorbikes (couple of BMW 650s ?) since leaving Shiraz where I saw a GS going the other way. That brings the grand total after 2 weeks here to 4 foreign bikes!

When I got to Kashan I had a bit of a mission finding my traditional house hotel down the little lanes which I feared would narrow to less than my GS' width- but all was well and I was soon sat in front of this:


The room opens to a traditional courtyard


I then wandered around Kashan which was quiet in the afternoon because if the continuing religious holidays.

However by 5.30 the bazaar was humming again.

So many tiny shops selling similar things, the productivity must be so low. I have yet to come across a supermarket although I imagine they may exist in Tehran.


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[simondippenhall]

The bazaar and surrounding




The rotating dial phone is not dead!




A rosewater distillation plant


There are some old mansions (khans?) here with wonderful doors

Tomorrow I am off exploring in the area including some supposedly magnificent Persian gardens nearby...


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[gspod]

Many thanks for your writings Simon. I too am an admirer of ancient doors. Long may the market reign

 

[gren_t]

Hi Simon,
Great write up,
many thanks for taking the time to post.


Bonne route

 

[Johan]

Love the rotating dial phones and the safe smoking around the benzin filling.��

 

[Johan]

The smiley face became a double question mark

 

[Sandtribe]

Great RR! Loving it! Keep it coming.
Stay safe !


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[JPVD]

Awesome! perfect mix of anthropology, architecture and adventure-biking

 

[(RIP) andrewgsadv]

Simon a most enjoyable post, thankyou for bringing it to life with your photos and writing style. Good on you for taking the time sharing your experiences. Looking forward to the next instalment

 

[Pacific]

Simon, thank you for sharing your trip, great report, really enjoying it.



Mark

 

[simondippenhall]

I realise that the Adventure riding content has been low in recent days. That's partly because I am trying to soak up the sounds and sights of Iran while I am here so the riding takes second place.

And often the GS is quite happy to have a rest in the shade, as in Na'in:



It seems to be doing its job well (fingers and toes crossed) so I am awarding it a couple of restdays. It's parked on the quiet alley but exceptionally I have taken the precaution of putting a D. Lock on the front wheel.

And I even read through parts of the Haynes workshop Manual last night, as a form of invocation to the God of motorcycles to spare this humble servant and his machine until the trip is over.

Talking of deities, the Ashura included some spectacular blood red fountains (actually, more Ribena colour) supposedly reflecting Husain's blood


I did check out the local motorcycle shop and its $50 helmets. I did find out as I expected that tyres of the size I would need are not in stock.



I ate an early supper yesterday in the Abbasi old house - it was enjoyable to sip dugh (in the blue jug, like lassi or ayran but with lots of lovely herbs added) and the staff out an Irish flag on my 'settee'.



Here I saw my first overt conflict in Iran: there was a crashing noise from behind a tapestry, where I think the kitchen was, and 4 guys emerged manhandling a fifth who was throwing punches. Possibly some artistic differences over the amount of garlic to be added? My meal was tasty so it seems to have escaped whatever was going on.




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[simondippenhall]

Today was pure tourism - a trip to the beautiful Bagh e Fin and then on to the mountainside village of Abyaneh. However I will be back on the bike tomorrow or the next day so the road diary will resume. And for the mosaic lovers there are at least some beautiful tiled ceilings.

I will post pictures and minimise words

Josep and Alberto from Barcelona



Your correspondent

What I cannot convey to you is the sound of trickling water, and the cool breeze in the shade of the beautiful cypresses- that you will have to imagine for yourselves!

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[simondippenhall]

This was followed by a visit to Abyaneh, a charming and quiet Adobe village. For DIY experts you will find some helpful pictures towards the end on how to mix and apply Adobe in the comfort of your own home

These are sheets of pressed date hanging out to sundry

Local transport

And for wannabe adobe plasterers

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[simondippenhall]

I was lured back to the bazaar as this is likely my last night in the pleasant oasis town of Kashan - not least as my traditional hotel is full tomorrow night, so I shall head for Qazvin

The bread makers are furiously at work

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This moonlit deserted caravanserai caught my eye - it's pretty much a full moon tonight I think

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[​IMG]

For those of you who feel your desk at work is overloaded, check out this guy - and not a computer in sight!

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A nut shop (this photo for Myke!)

This is a corner of a caravanserai which is now a carpet shop and cafe
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And I rounded the evening off with a delicious tea in this Khan. It came complete with sugared dates and cookies. Note the little fountain flowing restfully in the background- these Persiand know how to create a relaxing environment!


Great ceilings

And in a corner of the bazaar, this grinding stone has apparently been operating for 300 years and is still going strong

Off to bed now, the road beckons tomorrow...


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[bogman]

Great stuff Simon, thanks for sharing...

 

[simondippenhall]

Thanks Charlie you are welcome!


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[geotim]

Some cracking photos Simon, looks like you are having a very enjoyable time!

Glad the hospitality of the local people continues, there are some great experiences out there for the open minded.

Safe travels, keep posting !