Off to Iran, at last
- Thread starter simondippenhall
- Start date
Thanks. Now here
Hope to head up the Alamut mountains tomorrow for some fun- and will summon up the energy tomorrow to update on today's ride - which did not follow the route I expected!
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Hope to head up the Alamut mountains tomorrow for some fun- and will summon up the energy tomorrow to update on today's ride - which did not follow the route I expected!
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Simon, further thanks for sharing these experiences....just wonderful insights into life there - just imagine the stores that your Caravanserai could tell! Safe riding.
On Monday morning I was to set off from this friendly oasis town - but where to lay my head that night? I could not stay longer as it was full and it seems the tourist season is hitting up.
The previous evening I had limited luck as all the hotels in Qazvin seemed full - but fortunately the desk clerk (whose other job seemed to be fixing the wifi) managed to find me a room at the Hotel Iran.
The previous day's desk clerk, Mahdi, was very pleasant and helpful. We got on well together and that evening he introduced me to his wife.
He is 21 and she 20 and they have been married 1 year, having not met before their arranged marriage. I learned that he is studying to be an imam and she is studying fashion design - an interesting combination! They seemed very happy and at ease together.
When I left the first order of business was to fill up with fuel- I had to ask a few people and one disappeared for 5 minutes and emerged with a beautiful map he had just drawn for me!
When I got to the fuel station it was closed and the attendant was counting his dosh- they all have vast amounts of notes since the smallest one I have seen, 1.000 rials, is worth less than 3 cents.
So I wait happily as I am in the shade and soon enough he reopens.
I am offered a choice of regular or super
Not sure what the difference is but I splash out for super- still only a few $ to fill the tank.
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The previous evening I had limited luck as all the hotels in Qazvin seemed full - but fortunately the desk clerk (whose other job seemed to be fixing the wifi) managed to find me a room at the Hotel Iran.
The previous day's desk clerk, Mahdi, was very pleasant and helpful. We got on well together and that evening he introduced me to his wife.
He is 21 and she 20 and they have been married 1 year, having not met before their arranged marriage. I learned that he is studying to be an imam and she is studying fashion design - an interesting combination! They seemed very happy and at ease together.
When I left the first order of business was to fill up with fuel- I had to ask a few people and one disappeared for 5 minutes and emerged with a beautiful map he had just drawn for me!
When I got to the fuel station it was closed and the attendant was counting his dosh- they all have vast amounts of notes since the smallest one I have seen, 1.000 rials, is worth less than 3 cents.
So I wait happily as I am in the shade and soon enough he reopens.
I am offered a choice of regular or super
Not sure what the difference is but I splash out for super- still only a few $ to fill the tank.
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Tasting the forbidden pleasures of the Persian Gulf highway!
However diligently I Try I cannot find my way to Dilijan other than by hopping on the motorway to Qom so again I become a renegade. At the two tolls they won't take any money from me but ask about my trip and even the duty policeman turns a blind eye to my rule-breaking. I have heard the bike described at the girl as 'motor San gheen' which apparently means a heavy or big motorbike so maybe a tourist on such a beast is exempt from these and other rules? Intoxicating!
I pass the super-clerical city of Qom, giving it an appropriately wide berth. Whilst on the motorway lots of motorists pull alongside and start videoing me - they are bored on this road and I am a curiosity I suppose. It does mean I have to check very carefully there is no one in my blind spot when I move as Iranian drivers have appalling risk management skills.
Through a quick exit I manage to get on the old highway. My plan is to ride through the mountains via Saveh, hoping for less traffic. Try as I may, I cannot find the cross country road I need to get to Saveh.
Instead I am confined to a highway through the desert with hundreds of trucks belching out fumes and often occupying both lanes, forcing me on to the verge twice.
There is also a shortage of fuel stations, surprisingly- so at 130miles I am glad to see one, even if it has scarily slippery marble tiling as many do.
I am invited in for tea to relax by the Soanish speaking manager so I get a chance to brush up my Spanish which is good as I am missing my weekly lessons at home.
But first I chastise this chap for sitting on my bike - I am concerned it will fall. It does surprise me how freely people in Persia treat bikes - I cannot imagine someone in UK just getting on someone else's bike without asking.
So to make up for my getting grumpy with him (as much due to the heat and the crap road, I think) I let him take a few selfies with me and the bike
This guy watches on
Then another chap draws me a map of how to get across to Karaj cross country and avoid getting sucked up into the appalling Tehran conglomerate. It works spot on!
Nonetheless there is already a lot of pollution 30 Kms outside Tehran and this confirms to me that I am NOT going to Tehran!
And on the plus side I do see several more camels!
Because it has been hard going I pull into a layby just before my destination and eat a late lunch from my magic plastic box. There are a couple of Turkish trucks there and the guys have their carpet out where they brew tea and sit and chat. No doubt they are preparing themselves for the long and arduous border crossing home.
As I enter Qazvin I am greeted by this wonderful gate
And approaching it are these camel riding merchants
The GPS gets me through the backlands of Qazvin to my hotel. This is another city with polished marble everywhere- I hope it doesn't rain orbit could get exciting.
Soon I am recharged and ready to wander the town, starting with the Chetoon palace of the Shah Tamasp which has a great calligraphy museum
Later, walking though the bazaar I spot this abandoned Mercedes car in a parking lot - I bet it has a fascinating history!
It's huge
Sadly I can't decipher the old motoring badge on the radiator
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However diligently I Try I cannot find my way to Dilijan other than by hopping on the motorway to Qom so again I become a renegade. At the two tolls they won't take any money from me but ask about my trip and even the duty policeman turns a blind eye to my rule-breaking. I have heard the bike described at the girl as 'motor San gheen' which apparently means a heavy or big motorbike so maybe a tourist on such a beast is exempt from these and other rules? Intoxicating!
I pass the super-clerical city of Qom, giving it an appropriately wide berth. Whilst on the motorway lots of motorists pull alongside and start videoing me - they are bored on this road and I am a curiosity I suppose. It does mean I have to check very carefully there is no one in my blind spot when I move as Iranian drivers have appalling risk management skills.
Through a quick exit I manage to get on the old highway. My plan is to ride through the mountains via Saveh, hoping for less traffic. Try as I may, I cannot find the cross country road I need to get to Saveh.
Instead I am confined to a highway through the desert with hundreds of trucks belching out fumes and often occupying both lanes, forcing me on to the verge twice.
There is also a shortage of fuel stations, surprisingly- so at 130miles I am glad to see one, even if it has scarily slippery marble tiling as many do.
I am invited in for tea to relax by the Soanish speaking manager so I get a chance to brush up my Spanish which is good as I am missing my weekly lessons at home.
But first I chastise this chap for sitting on my bike - I am concerned it will fall. It does surprise me how freely people in Persia treat bikes - I cannot imagine someone in UK just getting on someone else's bike without asking.
So to make up for my getting grumpy with him (as much due to the heat and the crap road, I think) I let him take a few selfies with me and the bike
This guy watches on
Then another chap draws me a map of how to get across to Karaj cross country and avoid getting sucked up into the appalling Tehran conglomerate. It works spot on!
Nonetheless there is already a lot of pollution 30 Kms outside Tehran and this confirms to me that I am NOT going to Tehran!
And on the plus side I do see several more camels!
Because it has been hard going I pull into a layby just before my destination and eat a late lunch from my magic plastic box. There are a couple of Turkish trucks there and the guys have their carpet out where they brew tea and sit and chat. No doubt they are preparing themselves for the long and arduous border crossing home.
As I enter Qazvin I am greeted by this wonderful gate
And approaching it are these camel riding merchants
The GPS gets me through the backlands of Qazvin to my hotel. This is another city with polished marble everywhere- I hope it doesn't rain orbit could get exciting.
Soon I am recharged and ready to wander the town, starting with the Chetoon palace of the Shah Tamasp which has a great calligraphy museum
Later, walking though the bazaar I spot this abandoned Mercedes car in a parking lot - I bet it has a fascinating history!
It's huge
Sadly I can't decipher the old motoring badge on the radiator
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Stunning, fascinating, involving... thank you for posting, and take it easy out there!
Cheers David. Realised I left out this photo, from yesterday, aimed at the geology buffs
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Tehran worst one way system I have come across, even worse than Maidstone, good call Simon, a place to be avoided from what I saw.
I get to use all of the tyres!
The plan yesterday was to go up the Alamut mountains to visit one of the old Castles of the Assassins. As you can see it promises some windy roads
But first I need to find the post office to airmail an important document to the UK, so I hop in the GS and work my way to where I think it is. It's handy to be on the bike because I can easily ask directions and soon find this
To my delight they ask 'airmail or DHL' so after paying a king's ransom, the document is on its way. But not before the time consuming rendering of a Gloucestershire address into Farsi characters! The post office seems entirely staffed by ladies. Naturally I don't dare take a picture.
Then off in the road to the beckoning mountains. It's a lot cooler already and I am beginning to wonder whether I should have worn my leather trousers rather than biker jeans.
Scenery is great and soon I am amongst countless hairpins
Alamut means eagles nest I read, and the gateway town of Mo'allem is proud of this
This donkey was not happy at my presence and the lady had a bit of a job reining it in
The castle itself is remote and ruined / that's what happens when you resist the Mongols!
But the views are magnificent m
And how is this for a scenic Main Street ?
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The plan yesterday was to go up the Alamut mountains to visit one of the old Castles of the Assassins. As you can see it promises some windy roads
But first I need to find the post office to airmail an important document to the UK, so I hop in the GS and work my way to where I think it is. It's handy to be on the bike because I can easily ask directions and soon find this
To my delight they ask 'airmail or DHL' so after paying a king's ransom, the document is on its way. But not before the time consuming rendering of a Gloucestershire address into Farsi characters! The post office seems entirely staffed by ladies. Naturally I don't dare take a picture.
Then off in the road to the beckoning mountains. It's a lot cooler already and I am beginning to wonder whether I should have worn my leather trousers rather than biker jeans.
Scenery is great and soon I am amongst countless hairpins
Alamut means eagles nest I read, and the gateway town of Mo'allem is proud of this
This donkey was not happy at my presence and the lady had a bit of a job reining it in
The castle itself is remote and ruined / that's what happens when you resist the Mongols!
But the views are magnificent m
And how is this for a scenic Main Street ?
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Great report and photographs Simon .... thank you again 
Keep it coming ....
Keep it coming ....
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Superb!
Great ride report, could do with a bit more cultural content 
Seriously, I would never have thought of riding to Iran, Italy has been my limit so far, I need to raise my game.
Seriously, I would never have thought of riding to Iran, Italy has been my limit so far, I need to raise my game.
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"The [Assassins] castle itself is remote and ruined / that's what happens when you resist the Mongols!" - Simon, in this book that I just read about Genghis Khan (whilst you are reading 'The Silk Road'), apparently the Assassins simply didn't take the Mongols seriously when they sent envoys to the Assassins castle/territory, asking for submission and fealty to the Mongols. The ruins that you visited are testament to the fact that the Assassins should have been reading a better quality of newspaper!
Keep up the reports...safe riding.
Keep up the reports...safe riding.
Guys thanks for all the feedback - I enjoy sharing it! It was great to get the panniers off the bike and just ride it unencumbered.
I have yet to meet a foreign biker in Iran other than day 1 in Tabriz when I met a French guy with a new Ural combination. He said he managed to cruise at 80kmh which is slower than the 1930 Ford and he was having to do an oil change.
So the Beemer has a lot going for it after all!
Yesterday started with the leanest breakfast I have experienced in Iran with no fruit or veg or even a boiled egg.
Lunch was some flatbread and a choc ice in the mountains so I went in pursuit of greens for dinner. I had mixed success- even though I went to a recommended restaurant which even had a doorman I ended up with a pretty bland salad- but at least with no after effects today!
Bee hives in the mountains
The plan for tomorrow is to ride North about 450 Kms to Ardabil near the Azerbaijan border - supposedly an interesting city but worryingly high and rain prone so I shall check the forecast in the morning.
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I have yet to meet a foreign biker in Iran other than day 1 in Tabriz when I met a French guy with a new Ural combination. He said he managed to cruise at 80kmh which is slower than the 1930 Ford and he was having to do an oil change.
So the Beemer has a lot going for it after all!
Yesterday started with the leanest breakfast I have experienced in Iran with no fruit or veg or even a boiled egg.
Lunch was some flatbread and a choc ice in the mountains so I went in pursuit of greens for dinner. I had mixed success- even though I went to a recommended restaurant which even had a doorman I ended up with a pretty bland salad- but at least with no after effects today!
Bee hives in the mountains
The plan for tomorrow is to ride North about 450 Kms to Ardabil near the Azerbaijan border - supposedly an interesting city but worryingly high and rain prone so I shall check the forecast in the morning.
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Great ride report, could do with a bit more cultural content
Seriously, I would never have thought of riding to Iran, Italy has been my limit so far, I need to raise my game.
Mike:
Not much different than riding to Italy - just longer and more paperwork but in compensation the people are friendlier including the police!
And I may return through Italy as it happens - the weather maps make me think I will stay South and possibly take a boat from Albania to Bari and ride up from there. I will have been in Iran 3 weeks tomorrow and it feels like time to point the old tractor West. The Northern route through Ukraine is looking distinctly unappealing weather wise!
Today's plan did not survive its first engagement with reality. I woke with a cough but feeling OKish so checked the weather forecast- Ardabil shown with single digit temps and heavy rain from 4pm.
No thank you - time for Plan B.
I target the town of Zanjan to the NW some 250 Kms so an easy ride and allowing me to visit the magnificent Soktaniyeh done/mausoleum. This is the joy of a totally unplanned trip - you can react to the circumstances whether it's weather or feeling tired or whatever.
It's patron was a man after my own heart - Oljeit (sp?) tried out a series of religions and even tried to make Soltaniyeh the new Mecca, without success. The mausoleum is one of the three largest brick built dines along with the blue mosque in Istanbul and one in Italy whose name escapes me.
Nice bit of brickwork;
The best bit is outside so I shun the 200,000 rials ticket (only 30,000 for locals) and sit happily in the sun admiring the edifice.
Then on to Zanjan where Garmin shows (again) its complete ignorance of local 1-way systems. Fortunately a local taxi driver takes pity on me and guides me to the Park Hotel. A pleasant short day giving me time to rest and also to visit another bazaar, the archaeology museum and the laundry (yes, really, it's a fabulous building!)
Archaeology museum
Body of worker preserved from 3,000year old salt mine
(there are actually 4 of them)
Iron Age pot
And figure
The laundry
Zanjan is apparently knife city (like Sheffield) and has made them for hundreds of years - and they are everywhere on sale
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No thank you - time for Plan B.
I target the town of Zanjan to the NW some 250 Kms so an easy ride and allowing me to visit the magnificent Soktaniyeh done/mausoleum. This is the joy of a totally unplanned trip - you can react to the circumstances whether it's weather or feeling tired or whatever.
It's patron was a man after my own heart - Oljeit (sp?) tried out a series of religions and even tried to make Soltaniyeh the new Mecca, without success. The mausoleum is one of the three largest brick built dines along with the blue mosque in Istanbul and one in Italy whose name escapes me.
Nice bit of brickwork;
The best bit is outside so I shun the 200,000 rials ticket (only 30,000 for locals) and sit happily in the sun admiring the edifice.
Then on to Zanjan where Garmin shows (again) its complete ignorance of local 1-way systems. Fortunately a local taxi driver takes pity on me and guides me to the Park Hotel. A pleasant short day giving me time to rest and also to visit another bazaar, the archaeology museum and the laundry (yes, really, it's a fabulous building!)
Archaeology museum
Body of worker preserved from 3,000year old salt mine
(there are actually 4 of them)Iron Age pot
And figure
The laundry
Zanjan is apparently knife city (like Sheffield) and has made them for hundreds of years - and they are everywhere on sale
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And on a more practical level, the bazaar can solve all your problems - including that elusive missing remote control
Local silver worker
And pretty but small local slippers
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Local silver worker
And pretty but small local slippers
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fab
great stuff Simon and thanks again
great stuff Simon and thanks again
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Sounds like a good move to head for Sanjan. Hope the plesant lady and her daughter are still behind reception in the Park Hotel and they let you park round the back near the owners car.
Great description and photos Simon. You have set a standard for others to follow.
Great description and photos Simon. You have set a standard for others to follow.
