officailly dangerous 650! HELP

havelockjohn

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Right, my twin is now unridable. I use it every day for a 60 mile round trip and it's now stalling a lot. Or I should say, it just dies, what ever gear.
It started doing it occassionaly and tonight it was for the 30 mile ride home.
Checked the operation of the TPS, which showed open circuit at rest then a gradual increase of resistance. Temp sensors are normal.
The idle control stepper motor on the side of the airbox operates but it's hard to say whether it's operating correctly. you can hear it winding away when you get the engine restarted.
If anyone has any pointers, i'd be rather greatful. :confused:
Cheers
John
 
Fuel? Fuel filter? Plugs? Meeces in your airbox?

Start with the cheap things like that which are easy to check, then you can cross them off the list as you start to work your way to the more expensive stuff like primary coil or whatever.

Good luck......these things can be a PITA to track down.

Talking of which, does the GS911 work on the 650? Might well be a local tosser to you who could plug one in to see if there are any indications on the readout? :nenau
 
I'd disconnect the battery for 20 mins then do a throttle reset.
 
If the throttle bodies are similar to those fitted on the G650, you may find the idle circuit has become blocked with crap. This is a bypass route past the butterfly than allows enough air through for the engine to idle. IIRC there is an electric actuator that helps control air flow through this.

Worth checking and cleaning before you start replacing expensive bits.
 
Well today I removed, checked and tested whatever I could. The air bypass is spot on, though i'm not convinced the actuator is operating as should.
According to the dealers "fuel filter is unheard of and not available seperately anyway"??
Only thing I did find was darkened soot around the tip of the one plug and on the HT coil tip suggesting an issue. But runs ok then just stops dead.
Someone's code reader would be very helpfull. My mechanical background is with cars and other stuff but I dont have access to code readers.
 
Is this happening with less than a half full fuel tank? I've heard the pump is prone to overheating when the fuel level gets low? Does it misbehave when the tank's full?
 
It's funny you mention that because the first time it happened I was filtering through motorway traffic in germany and it stopped it's behaviour when I filled the tank. Didn't really do after that for ages. Then it came back with avengence over the past week or so. Now to the point of it being dangerous. It's died on me whilst cornering, crossing major roads and I desparetely need for a daily 60 mile round trip.
This afternoon I was enroute to a BMW specialist over Sunderland way and I didn't make it. It conked on constantly and the traffic management would've bees hazardous.
However, the fuel pump overheating theory has crossed my mind and there is a definite link to the temperature as its fine going to work and the plays up half way home when the air temp's over 20 degrees.
Also the ESW warning is appearing on the dash so i've ordered an aeriel for good measure.
Motorworks have been great and they're sending a pump up to try.
Nightmare!!!
Still like the bike, it's been great til now!
 
I would replace or at least clean and lube the aluminium check valve in the fuel tank vent hose. This was the source of my wifes F650 GS twins stalling issue. It corrodes badly freezing the check valve and causing a vacum as fuel is used. Its at least one easy possible issue to eleminate. Best of luck
 
I did take a look at earlier and it seemed to be. Though I'd like to confirm that it's installed correctly. It was allowing me to draw air but not blow back.
However, there was no inrush of air when the filler cap was opened.
Even tried riding with the cap open very briefly, until it died again!
Cheers
 
It's funny you mention that because the first time it happened I was filtering through motorway traffic in germany and it stopped it's behaviour when I filled the tank. Didn't really do after that for ages. Then it came back with avengence over the past week or so. Now to the point of it being dangerous. It's died on me whilst cornering, crossing major roads and I desparetely need for a daily 60 mile round trip.
This afternoon I was enroute to a BMW specialist over Sunderland way and I didn't make it. It conked on constantly and the traffic management would've bees hazardous.
However, the fuel pump overheating theory has crossed my mind and there is a definite link to the temperature as its fine going to work and the plays up half way home when the air temp's over 20 degrees.
Also the ESW warning is appearing on the dash so i've ordered an aeriel for good measure.
Motorworks have been great and they're sending a pump up to try.
Nightmare!!!
Still like the bike, it's been great til now!

Sounds like the pump overheating, especially as the weathers been so good of late :) Let's hope the pump resolves the problem 'cos keeping the tank topped up constantly is a PITA :)

Post back the result of the replacement pump.

PS
I guess one test would be to have a can of petrol with you and when it plays up to top up the tank immediately to see if that "resolves" it?
 
May not be related, but my bike had similar issues, cutting out for no reason and then starting again and running for a short time before stopping.

Turned out to be the Side stand cut out switch had worked loose, was fine but as I travelled down the road the vibration caused it to kill the ignition, felt like a fuel problem as sometimes it would kick in again as I was coasting.

Might be worth a look
 
ER, my side stand switch is very wobbly. Looks like it could do with an extra washer on the back but i'm a little worried that the abnormal looking movement on the side stand my put extra force on switch.
Should the side stand have as much wobble??
I've read a post or two on the bushes of the stand becoming worn!
 
Should the side stand have as much wobble??
I've read a post or two on the bushes of the stand becoming worn!

There's 2 issues here that are connected. The main bolt for the stand comes loose, and needs tightening regularly. This in turn accelerates the wear to the 2 bushes. Well worth replacing if you have any play. Don't forget to remove the side stand cut-out switch first, otherwise you'll screw that up when you undo the bolt!
 


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