Ohlins rear

Redboots

Redboots

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Can anyone help me with my rear Ohlins shock?

I want to get the spring off and then to be able to reset the ride hight when its all back together.
This is the model:
shock1.jpg


The problem is this little peg that locks the spring preload adjuster. Does it just screw out? Not having much luck and don't want to bugger it.
shock2.jpg


Cheers,
John
 
cookie said:
it needs a special spring compressor.
Click to expand...

Bolicks. That means its not that great a bit of kit then.

If I want to swap between loaded with panniers touring and unloaded green-laning, I have to compress the spring past that peg to be able to adjust it?? :nenau

Cheers,
John
 
I cant understand the point of having an adustable shock that cant be adjusted on the road so I would suggest ( I am not a shock expert) trying to get the pin out, if it breaks then just order a second spring adjuster ring and use the two to lock together when you have found your ideal pre-load. Better find out how much the adjuster rinf is first Ohlins stuff isnt cheap.
 
John, the remote wheel adjusts the preload but I doubt that it will affect sag/ride height.
My mate that had the bike before, had the shock overhauled by PDQ but I recon he either gave them the wrong weight values, or they did it wrong. He weighed about as much as a greasy chip and was short of leg but he always had problems getting on/off and the sidestand let the bike lean like a Harley... whereas he could get on/off my bike OK.

PDQ cant set the sag as it needs doing on the bike so it would seem odd that the adjuster is locked.

My old bike had a Wilbers with a remote adjuster on it but also the twin locking rings to adjust ride height... as you would expect.

Anyone know Firefox Racing in Keighley? They do a shock overhaul service quoted at £85. PDQ = £150

John
 
They were a pain in the arse when I had a Technoflex rebuilt by them. They took weeks to get the shock back to me only for it to still be leaking. I gave up in the end.

K Tech at Coalville are great guys to deal with.

http://www.k-tech.uk.com/
 
Progress! I found a pdf copy of the BM836 (Para shock), Ohlins manual, plus a post I found on ADVrider.

When that big, remote knob is turned, the gold collar moves down from the knurled pre-load adjuster nut at the top, so increasing pre-load.
On the downside, it only moves about 3-4mm. I read it should be able to move up to around 9mm so it must have lost fluid.
Spring is also a bit hard - 689-31/95 198 - for my weight.

Looks like more money:( Best not tell the wife:cool:

John
 
Now I am probably talking bolix, but why would you want to alter the ride height on a regular basis. I can understand altering rebound and preload but just to jack up the back of the bike for riding off road or without panniers does'nt seem right to me. When I had mine rebuilt, (ohlins like yours) they asked my weight so that they could set it up properly. with light panniers I can just alter the preload. Would'nt raising the rear just unbalance the bike unless the front forks were also raised.
or am I being thick:augie
 
pastyman said:
...why would you want to alter the ride height on a regular basis. I can understand altering rebound and preload but just to jack up the back of the bike for riding off road or without panniers does'nt seem right to me. When I had mine rebuilt, (ohlins like yours) they asked my weight so that they could set it up properly. with light panniers I can just alter the preload. Would'nt raising the rear just unbalance the bike unless the front forks were also raised.
or am I being thick:augie
Click to expand...

Err... dunno...

The idea is to be able to maintain the amount of sag. That's why you see a lot of bikes dragging their arses when they have the panniers/missus or both:eek: on.
It should, as you say not be used just to jack the back end up and down.

Being a modest 78kg:), there aint much weight with just me. Add me boxes full of crap, racks and a stuff bag and you can easily see 50-60 kilos going on right at the back. I want to be able to adjust the sag so that the bike rides at its correct "angle of attack" as it were. Makes a BIG difference to the handling and feel.
With the Wilbers on me other bike it was easy-peasy.
I think with the right spring and a fully functioning knob:augie it will do nicely.

John
 
Redboots said:
Err... dunno...

The idea is to be able to maintain the amount of sag. That's why you see a lot of bikes dragging their arses when they have the panniers/missus or both:eek: on.
It should, as you say not be used just to jack the back end up and down.

Being a modest 78kg:), there aint much weight with just me. Add me boxes full of crap, racks and a stuff bag and you can easily see 50-60 kilos going on right at the back. I want to be able to adjust the sag so that the bike rides at its correct "angle of attack" as it were. Makes a BIG difference to the handling and feel.
With the Wilbers on me other bike it was easy-peasy.
I think with the right spring and a fully functioning knob:augie it will do nicely.




Thats what I thought. Just wind the preload up, it stiffens the rear and no sag. Did it on mine when I went touring and it was fine. the did say that I could fit a heavier spring if it was needed too.
Click to expand...
 
I wiegh 100 kg and the 80 spring is OK for me .

Ohlins recommend that spring preload is 17 mm + - 2mm, that is why the remote adjuster only moves 4mm.

Ir you cant get the sag right betweem 15 and 19 mm preload you have the wrong spring.

The important thing with fine tuning is balance, front to rear.

As you are not changing the front check the sag there and start of with the rear 3/5mm less.

I have HPN springs in the front which give around 15 mm less sag than stock and the 80 spring was right on the mark with them at the stock 17mm preload, so I suspect that you may need stiffer front springs too if you are are to get the full benifit of the Ohlins.
 
Beemerboff said:
I wiegh 100 kg and the 80 spring is OK for me .

Ohlins recommend that spring preload is 17 mm + - 2mm, that is why the remote adjuster only moves 4mm.

Ir you cant get the sag right betweem 15 and 19 mm preload you have the wrong spring.

The important thing with fine tuning is balance, front to rear.

As you are not changing the front check the sag there and start of with the rear 3/5mm less.

I have HPN springs in the front which give around 15 mm less sag than stock and the 80 spring was right on the mark with them at the stock 17mm preload, so I suspect that you may need stiffer front springs too if you are are to get the full benifit of the Ohlins.
Click to expand...

I want to be able to adjust the rear end for loaded and solo riding... No more
If this Ohlins cant cope with that as a range of adjustment on the pre-load knob, it ain't much cop, methinks.

The first 10 clicks (turns) of the knob do sweet FA and the last 7 give me the 4mm. On that basis, the 9mm range from max to min would seem to be about right.
The front has progressive in but I know not what flavour.
The main point of the exercise is to prevent that drag-bottom look when loaded and so make it ride right. Not after pin-sharp handling here just to keep what it has:D

Going to see if the spring I have is correct first, as you suggest.

John
 
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