Ohlins Set-Up Questions

[ferguscawley]

Guys

Bought a 94 1100GS recently that has practially brand new Ohlins on it. I need some guidance on set-up as I have a handling issue with mine. The rear wheel tends to step-out of line far too easily when leaned over (not excessively leaned over either) - it tends to do this in wet or dry conditions. Tyres are almost new and at the correct pressures.
I am looking for approximate base settings for rear preload and rebound settings - once I get it in the ballpark I can fine-tune from there myself. Currently, the rear shock has minimum rebound (all the way out) and about 40% preload wound in (this is the way I got the bike). It feels less stable than my friend's GS who has basic (somewhat worn) BMW suspension.
I am a healthy 15 stone in my birthday suit

Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

Ferg

 

[Madmountainman]

Rebound damping- Turn adjuster fully clockwise and then back it off 12 clicks.
Preload- Turn adjuster fully clockwise and back it off 16mm.
These are the base settings for an Ohlins 46 DRS.

As it's not feeling stable i suggest you need more rebound damping.

Preload measurements- Taken from point on paralever to point on undertray with suspension fully extended and then with rider. The difference between the two measurements should be 30-40mm.

 

[ferguscawley]

Thanks !

I'll try that set-up this weekend and take it from there.

Ferg

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Rebound damping- Turn adjuster fully clockwise and then back it off 12 clicks.
Preload- Turn adjuster fully clockwise and back it off 16mm.
These are the base settings for an Ohlins 46 DRS.

As it's not feeling stable i suggest you need more rebound damping.

Preload measurements- Taken from point on paralever to point on undertray with suspension fully extended and then with rider. The difference between the two measurements should be 30-40mm.

Well said MM,exactly what I would do for starters...............however although the suspenders work on a clockwise r/hand thread set up...............but don't forget that when 'in situ' the shocker is inverted - so it's the opposite way (anticlockwise) on the rebound adjuster.............

 

[Madmountainman]

But there's also helpful little arrows to tell you which is plus and which is minus, hence i said to wind it fully on and then back it off to, hopefully, avoid any confusion. Thanks for your input though JB

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

But there's also helpful little arrows to tell you which is plus and which is minus, hence i said to wind it fully on and then back it off to, hopefully, avoid any confusion. Thanks for your input though JB

No probs............MM.......
The Preload adjuster has arrows and is the correct for a clockwise thread, however I was talking about the Rebound adjuster which to the best of my knowledge doesn't have arrows and is inverted............just a tip.............many people get it wrong with the adjusters on the shock, not the remote preload adjuster.........

 

[Bikergary]

I have a 98 R1100GS with Ohlins now fitted (2nd Hand), but everyone keeps mentioning setting the Preload in mm's, does this mean I have to remove the shock from the bike to measure as you can't see the top of the shock in situ.?
or is there an easyer way.. ie number of clicks (remote preload) or twists?

plus how can you tell if your Preload needs altering? damping I pretty much tell.

 

[Possu]

Guys

Bought a 94 1100GS recently that has practially brand new Ohlins on it. I need some guidance on set-up as I have a handling issue with mine. The rear wheel tends to step-out of line far too easily when leaned over (not excessively leaned over either) - it tends to do this in wet or dry conditions. Tyres are almost new and at the correct pressures.

Ferg

Reduce the preload, this will allow the suspension to move rather than the wheel move against the tarmac when cornering.

 

[Mouse]

plus how can you tell if your Preload needs altering? damping I pretty much tell.

Standard wisdom is that the suspension should be compressed by about 30% of the total travel when the bike is normally loaded, as far as I remember.

 

[Mzokk]

Measure static sag at the rear. Put the bike on the centre stand. Measure the distance between a fixed point on the subframe and a fixed point on the swingarm perpendicular to the centre of the rear spindle with the rear wheel clear of the ground. Take the bike off the stand. bounce the rear up and down a couple of times to settle the suspension. Have someone balance the bike vertically. Measure the distance again. This is static sag and on a GS it sould be around 25-35mm less than your unloaded measurement. If not adjust the preload to achieve this figure. Sit on the bike with your riding gear on. Get someone to help maintain the balance of the bike. I.e you sit in the normal riding position with your feet on the pegs and get another willing assistant to measure the same distance. Ideally it should be around 55/65mm less than your original meaurement or 30% of the total travel. This helps stop the bike from leaving the ground because the suspension has topped out. If the measurement is way more than this say 100mm (with static sag set correctly) u need a stronger spring or diet. If its a lot less than this say 45m m you need a weaker spring or more pies

Now damping. Ohlins for a GS only has rebound damping adjustment. Too little rebound with the sag set correctly and the rear of the bike will be loose and wallowy (you can test this for youself by winding the damping right off.....be careful!) Too much rebound damping and the spring does not have time to extend before encountering the next bump it will feel harsh will kick off bumps and may chatter as you brake into corners (unlikely on a gs cause of the anti dive front) Wind the rebound damping right in and test to see what this feels like...be careful! In between there will be a setting for you that won't wallow and wont kick. My experience of Ohlins for sports bikes tells me that they are set with way too much rebound damping standard from the factory.

I'd start with the standard setting and wind off damping untill the ride was supple but not wallowy. Get the shock rebuilt every year to 18 months 15,000miles to keep it tip top. Clarence Bell at PLR suspension in Greyabbey Co Down does a great job.

http://www.plrsuspension.com