Ohlins

Stoney

Registered user
Joined
May 8, 2003
Messages
882
Reaction score
0
Location
Leeds
I'm considering fitting Ohlins shocks to my 12GS.

I have the stock ones wound up full just to get a decent ride but find it a bit too hard over the bumps etc. I recently rode the new R1200s with Ohlins and it was super smooth over the bumps.

SO...
1) What the main benefits of having them fitted?
2) Will I notice an improvement?
3) Is it worth the money?
4) What should I expect to pay supplied and fitted?

Any help appreciated
 
I'm still on standard shocks so can't comment from personal experiance, but, from all the threads I've read here on the subject Wilbers shocks sound almost if not as good but at a much reduced cost.

Have you considered having the standard shock rebuilt to your spec. by somebody like Maxton - I think that's the route I'll go down once my shocks get tired as it would seem the most cost effective.

Andres
 
you've answered the first 2 questions in your own post :confused:

3) only you could decide that

4) check out the Harris web site
 
05 bike Stoney ( mine ) they were £800 and sumut, if they fit them and set up the bike for you it's a grand. That's Harris.
 
Fitting Ohlins to the 1200.
If you read the manual it says you have to remove the front wishbone thingie to remove the front shock :eek: Not true. Just stick a trolley jack under the motor and a big weight and the rack, Better still have a mate sit on the back seat. You will just have enough room to remove the shock :D Then pop the new one in, i used a cheapO Halfords leccy wheel nut remover thingie to remove the top nut. Rear shock. Garden spade under the wheel and lift :D
Hope that helps.

Lyn.
 
I paid £750 and fitted them myself - very staightforward.

You actually get a firmer ride as the springs are stiffer than standard (you therefore get less sag) and they alter the geometry by jacking up the rear.

Handling/ roadholding much improved - you won't be disappointed. IMO this is the best upgrade you can make on the GS and you can always resell when you get rid of the bike.
 
Stoney said:
I'm considering fitting Ohlins shocks to my 12GS.

I have the stock ones wound up full just to get a decent ride but find it a bit too hard over the bumps etc. I recently rode the new R1200s with Ohlins and it was super smooth over the bumps.

SO...
1) What the main benefits of having them fitted?
2) Will I notice an improvement?
3) Is it worth the money?
4) What should I expect to pay supplied and fitted?

Any help appreciated

Best go to an expert to get them set up for your requirements and you'll probably need a heavier spring
Try Kais Performance, just over the Pennines
If they're good enough for the late David Jefferies and other racers like Chris Walker.....then we should get along fine
www.kais-performance.com
 
Had a new rear ohlins fitted by Clarence Bell over here in NI Pro-Link Racing Services
.... and a nicer man you couldn't meet, done me a really really good deal.... i can't say more than that :D

He let me watch him take my old one apart.... unbelievably meticulously clean when he does it :clap :clap
even for a simple shock like on the GS it has a lot of stuff inside it.
 
Stoney said:
1) What the main benefits of having them fitted?
Smoother ride from superior damping better tracton from improved contact of tyres and road surface, less "fade" from oil heating over roug surfaces, able to handle riding under heavy load conditions.
Stoney said:
2) Will I notice an improvement?
Yes
Stoney said:
3) Is it worth the money?
In my opinion definetly hence the reason one of the first "upgrades" I made to the bike was Ohlins front and rear. Long term you will have the benefits of improved shocks and at the same time thye retain value and can be swapped to a new bike or sold or traded in for a set for a different bike.
Stoney said:
4) What should I expect to pay supplied and fitted?
If you were on this side of the water you could get them fitted for free including custom re-springing if required :D

It's worth considering the fact that Ohlins have a large number of approved service centres should you need work done compared to alternate manufacturers and also thye are now approved by BMW. The latter is a small point but it all adds up IMO :thumb
 
Stoney said:
I'm considering fitting Ohlins shocks to my 12GS.

I have the stock ones wound up full just to get a decent ride but find it a bit too hard over the bumps etc.

Sorry, but if they're wound up full they will be hard over the bumps!

Try backing them off for a softer ride!

:beerjug:
www.adventure.gs
 
Thunder said:
Surely pre-load does not effect spring stiffness just ride height?

Yup... dial in pre-load and you take out the softer, initial part of the spring!

Put it like this.... and this is my arguement with my 1200GS-A.

Stand the bike up on its wheels and measure from the seat maybe, to the ground. Now sit on the bike with all your gear on... this measurement will now be less, the bikes suspension has 'sagged' this sag should be between 25% to 30% of the overall movement of the wheel (handbook spec.). We can dial in pre-load now (rebound adjustment comes later) to give the correct amount of sag ie it firms up the spring (alters the ride height at the same time of course)

25% to 30% :D My 1200 GS-A is 5% at the front and 16% at the rear... far far too hard, and that's with the pre-load wound fully back/off :eek: If I wind my pre-load in then the percentage figures get even less.

I wrote to BMW about it in May and to date have not hade the courtesy of a reply :nono

:beerjug:
www.adventure.gs
 
from a while ago...

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42530

:D

and

just a few things to look out for

Rebound damping
*Rear suspension
Too much rebound damping can cause:
- The rear "jumps" on the bumps instead of following the surface.
- The rear "jutters" under braking.
- It holds the rear down with the result that the bike will understeer!
- It can cause overheating in the hydraulic system of the shock absorber and make it fade, in other words, it will loose damping when hot.

Too little rebound damping can cause:
- The rear "tops out" too fast under braking, causing the rear wheel to jump
- The bike feels unstable.

*Front suspension
Too much rebound damping can cause:
- Oversteering!
- It will give poor grip of the front tyre.
- It feels like the front wheels will tuck under in corners.

Too little rebound damping can cause:
- Understeer!
- The front can feel unstable.

Compression damping
Rear suspension
Too much compression damping can cause:
- The rear wheel to slide under acceleration .
-It can give a harsh ride over bumps.

Too little compression damping can cause:
- The rear wheel start to bump sideways under acceleration out of the corner.
- The bike will squad too much (rear is too low), that will cause the front to loose grip.

Front suspension
Too much compression damping can cause:
- Good result during braking.
- Feels harsh over the bumps.

Too little compression damping can cause:
- Strong diving of the front.

Spring ratio
Rear
Too hard spring ratio:
- Gives easy turning into corners.
- Makes the rear feel harsh.
- Create poor rear wheel traction.

Too soft spring ratio:
- Gives good traction in acceleration.
- Creates understeer in entry of corner.
- Makes too much suspension travel which will make it difficult to "flick" the bike from one side to the other in a chicane.
- Will give a light feeling in the front.

Front
Too hard spring ratio:
- Good under braking.
- Creates understeer.
- It feels harsh in the corners.

Too soft spring ratio:
- Gives easy turning into corners.
- Creates oversteer.
- Can cause front to tuck under.
- Bad under braking (diving).

TROUBLESHOOTING SHOCK DAMPING PROBLEMS

Shock Adjustment Locations:

Rebound adjustment (if applicable) is located at the bottom of the shock.
Compression adjustment (if applicable) is located at the top of the shock or on the reservoir.
Spring preload is located at the top of the shock.
Shock - Lack of Rebound:

Symptoms

The ride will feel soft or vague and as speed increases, the rear end will want to wallow and/or weave over bumpy surfaces and traction suffers.
Loss of traction will cause rear end to pogo or chatter due to shock returning too fast on exiting a corner.
Solution

Insufficient rebound - Increase rebound until wallowing and weaving disappears and control and traction are optimized.

Shock - Too Much Rebound:

Symptoms

Ride is harsh, suspension control is limited and traction is lost.
Rear end will pack down, forcing the bike wide in corners, due to rear squat. It will slow steering because front end is riding high.
When rear end packs in, tires generally will overheat and will skip over bumps.
When chopping throttle, rear end will tend to skip or hop on entries.
Solution

Too much rebound - Decrease rebound "gradually" until harsh ride is gone and traction is regained. Decrease rebound to keep rear end from packing.

Shock - Lack of Compression:

Symptoms

The bike will not turn in entering a turn.
With bottoming, control and traction are lost.
With excessive rear end squat, when accelerating out of corners, the bike will tend to steer wide.
Solution

Insufficient compression - Increase compression "gradually until traction and control is optimized and/or excessive rear end squat is gone.

Shock - Too Much Compression:

Symptoms

Ride is harsh, but not as bad as too much rebound. As speed increases, so does harshness.
There is very little rear end squat. This will cause loss of traction/sliding. Tire will overheat.
Rear end will want to kick when going over medium to large bumps.
Solution

Too much compression - Decrease compression until harshness is gone. Decrease compression until sliding stops and traction is regained.


Rear Shock Problems Possible Cure

Race sag too great - Increase preload.

Race sag too small - Reduce preload.

Rear squats on acceleration - Stiffer spring, increase anti-squat angle, slightly increase compression damping.

Very Harsh ride over ripples - Reduce compression damping.

Bike wallows - Increase rebound damping.

Rear jacks up too fast on braking - Increase rebound damping.

Rear end chatters exiting slow corners - Increase rebound damping.

Bike kicks off ripples or bounces on bumps - Increase rebound damping.

Rear end pumps down on bumpy corners - Reduce rebound damping.
 
TUNED IN said:
from a while ago...

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42530

:D

and

just a few things to look out for

Rebound damping
*Rear suspension
Too much rebound damping can cause:
- The rear "jumps" on the bumps instead of following the surface.
- The rear "jutters" under braking.
- It holds the rear down with the result that the bike will understeer!
- It can cause overheating in the hydraulic system of the shock absorber and make it fade, in other words, it will loose damping when hot.

Too little rebound damping can cause:
- The rear "tops out" too fast under braking, causing the rear wheel to jump
- The bike feels unstable.

*Front suspension
Too much rebound damping can cause:
- Oversteering!
- It will give poor grip of the front tyre.
- It feels like the front wheels will tuck under in corners.

Too little rebound damping can cause:
- Understeer!
- The front can feel unstable.

Compression damping
Rear suspension
Too much compression damping can cause:
- The rear wheel to slide under acceleration .
-It can give a harsh ride over bumps.

Too little compression damping can cause:
- The rear wheel start to bump sideways under acceleration out of the corner.
- The bike will squad too much (rear is too low), that will cause the front to loose grip.

Front suspension
Too much compression damping can cause:
- Good result during braking.
- Feels harsh over the bumps.

Too little compression damping can cause:
- Strong diving of the front.

Spring ratio
Rear
Too hard spring ratio:
- Gives easy turning into corners.
- Makes the rear feel harsh.
- Create poor rear wheel traction.

Too soft spring ratio:
- Gives good traction in acceleration.
- Creates understeer in entry of corner.
- Makes too much suspension travel which will make it difficult to "flick" the bike from one side to the other in a chicane.
- Will give a light feeling in the front.

Front
Too hard spring ratio:
- Good under braking.
- Creates understeer.
- It feels harsh in the corners.

Too soft spring ratio:
- Gives easy turning into corners.
- Creates oversteer.
- Can cause front to tuck under.
- Bad under braking (diving).

TROUBLESHOOTING SHOCK DAMPING PROBLEMS

Shock Adjustment Locations:

Rebound adjustment (if applicable) is located at the bottom of the shock.
Compression adjustment (if applicable) is located at the top of the shock or on the reservoir.
Spring preload is located at the top of the shock.
Shock - Lack of Rebound:

Symptoms

The ride will feel soft or vague and as speed increases, the rear end will want to wallow and/or weave over bumpy surfaces and traction suffers.
Loss of traction will cause rear end to pogo or chatter due to shock returning too fast on exiting a corner.
Solution

Insufficient rebound - Increase rebound until wallowing and weaving disappears and control and traction are optimized.

Shock - Too Much Rebound:

Symptoms

Ride is harsh, suspension control is limited and traction is lost.
Rear end will pack down, forcing the bike wide in corners, due to rear squat. It will slow steering because front end is riding high.
When rear end packs in, tires generally will overheat and will skip over bumps.
When chopping throttle, rear end will tend to skip or hop on entries.
Solution

Too much rebound - Decrease rebound "gradually" until harsh ride is gone and traction is regained. Decrease rebound to keep rear end from packing.

Shock - Lack of Compression:

Symptoms

The bike will not turn in entering a turn.
With bottoming, control and traction are lost.
With excessive rear end squat, when accelerating out of corners, the bike will tend to steer wide.
Solution

Insufficient compression - Increase compression "gradually until traction and control is optimized and/or excessive rear end squat is gone.

Shock - Too Much Compression:

Symptoms

Ride is harsh, but not as bad as too much rebound. As speed increases, so does harshness.
There is very little rear end squat. This will cause loss of traction/sliding. Tire will overheat.
Rear end will want to kick when going over medium to large bumps.
Solution

Too much compression - Decrease compression until harshness is gone. Decrease compression until sliding stops and traction is regained.


Rear Shock Problems Possible Cure

Race sag too great - Increase preload.

Race sag too small - Reduce preload.

Rear squats on acceleration - Stiffer spring, increase anti-squat angle, slightly increase compression damping.

Very Harsh ride over ripples - Reduce compression damping.

Bike wallows - Increase rebound damping.

Rear jacks up too fast on braking - Increase rebound damping.

Rear end chatters exiting slow corners - Increase rebound damping.

Bike kicks off ripples or bounces on bumps - Increase rebound damping.

Rear end pumps down on bumpy corners - Reduce rebound damping.

Yup that's what I said... but if not it's what I meant to say :D
 


Back
Top Bottom