Oil cooler bypass on an Oilhead?

[DrAlf]

Morning All.

I think the thread heading is kind of self explanatory but just to elaborate, I’ve seen the oil cooler bypass kits that touratech produce for the airhead and was wondering whether it could be possible to do the same with an oilhead. Worst case scenario, you’re in the middle of nowhere and the oil cooler springs a leak – could you bypass it and keep riding or will the bike get too hot?

Anyone done this or know if it’s possible?

Thanks in advance

DrAlf

 

[Geezer]

& cook your engine ??

 

[Mick Fagan]

As cooled oil is used to keep the insides of the pistons from overheating I don't think it too wise a decision.

If the system does spring a leak on the hoses and/or the joints with solid pipes, then I think it's a major fix wherever you are. If you are out in the sticks then one could possibly seal the leak and limp home or whatever and if in a populated place then tow or trailer it home.

Last Christmas one of my friends colected a bird that fractured the oil cooler radiator. Basically we had to pull the thing apart and use liquid steel to patch it up. That was on an 1150GS and I don't think any bike, be it air cooled or the later oil cooled twins would be much different.

I myself just participated in our clubs annual midnight to dawn midwinter ride. The temperature was a few degrees above freezing and the oil temp gauge didn't once get above two bars.

What would be a more appropriate solution would be to have a flap or set of louvres to close of the air supply to the radiator itself. I have seen something once on a German 1100GS about 4 years ago in Stuttgart at Christmas time. The rider had all flaps closed and the temp gauge was showing 4 bars with the ambient temp being about -7ºC. I witnessed this at a set of traffic lights and thought it was pretty neat.

Mick.

 

[DrAlf]

Thanks for the info Mick. Guess I’ll stick a tube of liquid metal in the tool kit just in case – and pray that I never need to use it. I’ve seen the 1100 oilcooler shut off flap that you describe in the wunderlich catalogue. You should be able to order one from here:

Motohansa
Unit 4/117 Punchbowl Rd, Greenacre
NSW 2190 Australia
Phone: 02 9759 5274
Fax 02 9740 5198
http://www.motohansa.com.au
[email protected]

 

[The Mechanic]

GS down under.

CHECK YOUR OIL LEVEL FIRST- YOU MAY HAVE LOST TOO MUCH FOR SAFE RUNNING OF THE ENGINE.

I think in your case you could by-pass the oil cooler provided that you could maintain a relatively high road/trail speed to ensure sufficient air flow over the engine. The oil will still be circulating around and cooling by carrying the heat up to the steering head area and back. I suggest this as in your probable case you could be in a 'life or death' situation in the outback.

In addition to plastic metal for temporary repairyou will need something to de-oil the repair area, fuel from the tank could be used for this purpose if you have enough. Two pieces of aluminium should be carried with the adhesive youm could use a coke can or bear bottle top, this to reinforce the repair, put on the adhesive and sink the cap/alloy/coke can strip into it, let it set, and then go home straight away.

I assume that you carry a mobile phone with you, even the cover from one of these would help when used with the adhesive.
Nip the individual punctured oil cooler tubes with pliers if you can this will help the adhesive to seal the leak.

At the end of the day you can get the engine rebuilt your life is more important than a chunk of metal.

Hope this is useful as Australia is a big place as we in the UK tend to assume that neighbours are only over the road and not 2-300 miles in the distance.

 

[Mick Fagan]

Tony, either a satellite phone (very, very expensive) or a two way radio with the Royal Flying Doctor frequency is about the only safe way.

There is no mobile phone coverage for an enormous amount of the country.

As for going home straight away after a repair like that, well we were about 2 days from home.

In 1978 in Central Australia one of our party fell off and broke his handlebars in two, no matter which way we went it was about 600 Klm's of dirt, then, about 300 Klm's of bitumen for a repair shop. We fixed the throttle assembly up on the right hand side and the clutch was attached to the triple clamp in the centre of the bike, someone took his tank bag, then he taught himself in one hard lesson, how to ride one handed over the next 900 Klm's. Heavens he was funny to watch, he had a ball as well althought there were some rather difficult patches, especially in sand.

In short we carry either ourself, or amongst a group, enough tools and equipment to affect most minor to sort of major repairs, in short, if it can be made to run, then it'll get you home.

One thing that stumped us once was the front axle nut on a friend's R75/6. He had lost that nut in thick sand and his steering was hopeless to put it bluntly. There isn't another nut anywhere on the bike that one can salvage to get one going, we eventually found that the front suspension of the Toyota 4WD Landcruiser had one exact same size and thread nut on it's front suspension set-up.

Ever since that litle scenario I always carried a spare front axle nut until I purchased the 1100, which has a different front end.

Mick.

 

[The Mechanic]

To Mick

Your ride-outs must take in a fair old mileage. Sounds like any one of them could be a test of ingenuity. I suppose you all fit Renthal bars to prevent breakage like this happening again. If you have the time perhaps you might start a new thread based upon you and your friends ride-outs in the Australian out-back.

Cheers.