" Oil Proof " Clutch

[CaptDougwash]

Looking at ordering a clutch disc from Motobins, and I see they sell the oil proof clutch disc kit with extended splines. It's only £40 more than the standard clutch kit with extended splines.

Has anyone had any experience with these? Any downsides?

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[DrFarkoff]

just get the standard one with the extended splines the Oil proof can be grabby

If you are worried about "Oil" fit a new Vitron double lip rear crank seal

Those fancy clutches are all well and good but really are overkill

 

[CaptDougwash]

just get the standard one with the extended splines the Oil proof can be grabby

If you are worried about "Oil" fit a new Vitron double lip rear crank seal

Those fancy clutches are all well and good but really are overkill

Cheers DrFarkoff, the advice is much appreciated.

The bike is 18 years old and never had an oil leak (except when I stored my final drive on it's side ). Double lip oil seal might be a good countermeasure

Thanks again!

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[Tsiklonaut]

YMMV but I've been saved by the oil-proof clutch plate in Mauritania once. Got me off from a dodgy zone in the islamic militant activity area and also saved me weeks of waiting for the new parts.

Note that I DID fit new double crank seals and new gearbox seals as a precaution, but still the gearbox oil found it's way into clutch (long story). Regular clutch plate needs just a couple drops of oil to start slipping.

I have Siebenrock oilproof clutch plate and it's not grabby, it's super smooth in fact. Oil literally poured on it and it worked like nothing had happened.

Well worth the few additional quid if you ask me since it lasts much longer as well.

 

[CaptDougwash]

YMMV but I've been saved by the oil-proof clutch plate in Mauritania once. Got me off from a dodgy zone in the islamic militant activity area and also saved me weeks of waiting for the new parts.

Note that I DID fit new double crank seals and new gearbox seals as a precaution, but still the gearbox oil found it's way into clutch (long story). Regular clutch plate needs just a couple drops of oil to start slipping.

I have Siebenrock oilproof clutch plate and it's not grabby, it's super smooth in fact. Oil literally poured on it and it worked like nothing had happened.

Well worth the few additional quid if you ask me since it lasts much longer as well.

Is there a UK supplier for Siebenrock? Did a quick Google, but couldn't find anything.

Also, does this come with the extended splines?

My main concern of the oil proof clutches, is the grabbiness. If this eliminates that, then it'll be worth the extra as you said.

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[bowser]

Well I fitted one and its been pretty good, dont notice any grabbiness had it in there for about 6 years or so maybe more.

 

[CaptDougwash]

Well I fitted one and its been pretty good, dont notice any grabbiness had it in there for about 6 years or so maybe more.

Was that a Siebenrock?

 

[DrFarkoff]

Also, does this come with the extended splines?

My main concern of the oil proof clutches, is the grabbiness. If this eliminates that, then it'll be worth the extra as you said.

Question is "Why, do you want one at all?" Is it coolness factor I know of at least 5 boxer oil heads with 100K plus on original clutches

rigid servicing throughout and winter workhorses to boot

Just resist the urge to use the thin as pish gear and engine oil and don't hold the clutch in at lights or traffic (Wears out clutch slave seal if wee bearing is sticky at all)

 

[CaptDougwash]

Question is "Why, do you want one at all?" Is it coolness factor I know of at least 5 boxer oil heads with 100K plus on original clutches

rigid servicing throughout and winter workhorses to boot

Just resist the urge to use the thin as pish gear and engine oil and don't hold the clutch in at lights or traffic (Wears out clutch slave seal if wee bearing is sticky at all)

Just for peice of mind... There's always that "what if?" playing at the back of my mind haha.

To be honest... I am pretty bad when it comes to holding in the clutch at traffic lights. A habbit I need to break out of if I want a new clutch lasting!

When you say "thin", do you mean lower viscosity than recomended? I usually use Silkolene Classic 20/50 mineral engine oil... And Motul 80/90 mineral gearbox oil.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Just for piece of mind... There's always that "what if?" playing at the back of my mind haha.

Fair enough How long has this one lasted and do you actually need to change it?

I usually use Silkolene Classic 20/50 mineral engine oil... And Motul 80/90 mineral gearbox oil.

Perfect as long as the gear oil is GL5 specification You are right on the money

I must admit I tend to use the heavy axle stuff 90 W 140 GL5 in all my FD these days It seemed to sort out early failures on 1200 Hex dod's o Schite FDs

Yeah Just knock it into Neutral as you stop and let the clutch out

Takes the strain off your wrist too

I would say that a standard Clutch set up "but" with the extended splines is a winner

Sad they never revised the spline length on OE stuff !

I have changed quite a few input shafts for folks, most were badly worn splines or a couple had actually eaten the splines out off the clutch driven plate

 

[CaptDougwash]

Fair enough How long has this one lasted and do you actually need to change it?



Perfect as long as the gear oil is GL5 specification You are right on the money

I must admit I tend to use the heavy axle stuff 90 W 140 GL5 in all my FD these days It seemed to sort out early failures on 1200 Hex dod's o Schite FDs

Yeah Just knock it into Neutral as you stop and let the clutch out

Takes the strain off your wrist too

I would say that a standard Clutch set up "but" with the extended splines is a winner

Sad they never revised the spline length on OE stuff !

I have changed quite a few input shafts for folks, most were badly worn splines or a couple had actually eaten the splines out off the clutch driven plate

I changed it about two years back... But made the cheap mistake of only changing the disc. Shortly after, offroaded the Corrieyairack Pass... Clutch smoked up. Let it cool and was fine for the rest of the ride, didn't think anything more of it. A few weeks later, it started slipping in higher revs, but didn't get any worse (in all gears and over the course of a year). I've currently stripped down the bike. When I removed the gearbox, there was a small bundle of clutch fibre on the base of the mount. I'm pretty sure the clutch is the issue. I'll be changing the whole pack this time round.

I'll also scribe the driveshaft as Steptoe mentioned, incase for whatever reason it slips once it's back together.


Ah good stuff... I hadn't a clue about GL grades... I'll make sure it's GL5 next time I change it.

Do you use the 140 in the gearbox too... Or just the FD? Mines an 1150gs.

Yeah, it makes no sense them not changing the disc after some issues arising almost instantly.
BMW being BMW I guess...

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[DrFarkoff]

Ah good stuff... I hadn't a clue about GL grades... I'll make sure it's GL5 next time I change it.

Do you use the 140 in the gearbox too... Or just the FD? Mines an 1150gs.

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Just in the FD any of the usual suspects are fine in the box as long as its GL5 (not the GL4 or GL4-5 mix)
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At the end of the day you are not racing it

Regular maintenance IS the answer

 

[CaptDougwash]

.
.
Just in the FD any of the usual suspects are fine in the box as long as its GL5 (not the GL4 or GL4-5 mix)
.
At the end of the day you are not racing it

Regular maintenance IS the answer

Thanks... Really do appreciate the advice!

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