Oil Slingers on R60/2

Devon

Devon

Well-known member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Jan 24, 2006
Messages
7,768
Reaction score
2,196
Location
Devon
I am sorting out my 1962 R60/2 and after some internet searches it seems if you don't know when the slingers were last cleaned (there are 2 and they need cleaning every 40k apparently) it is wise to do clean them as if they get blocked iy wrecks the engine. This requires a complete engine strip and lifting the crank out to get at the slingers. Rather then risk wrecking the engine by leaving the cleaning or attempting to do it myself (I'm a builder not a mechanic :blast) I will probably take the engine out and get a workshop to sort it and use the strip down as an opportunity to clean the engine casings.
Can anyone recommend the best people for working on old beemers? I don't mind travelling.
 
For the stroke 2 BMs I would put Bob Porecha in London at the top of a very short list. It is not that difficult a job but Some special tools are required.
I would recommend the DVDs Cycleworks sell on US eBay, not brilliant quality but technically very good.
If you choose someone to do it for you make sure it is someone who is familiar with the /2s


I hope this helps.

Brian
 
bwprice100 said:
For the stroke 2 BMs I would put Bob Porecha in London at the top of a very short list. It is not that difficult a job but Some special tools are required.
I would recommend the DVDs Cycleworks sell on US eBay, not brilliant quality but technically very good.
If you choose someone to do it for you make sure it is someone who is familiar with the /2s


I hope this helps.

Brian
Click to expand...

I've just placed you. You're the clown from the BMW club who f*cked me about with the cetrificate for my GS frame. Cost me hundreds of pounds and months of time...twat!
 
Slingers

Devon said:
I am sorting out my 1962 R60/2 and after some internet searches it seems if you don't know when the slingers were last cleaned (there are 2 and they need cleaning every 40k apparently) it is wise to do clean them as if they get blocked iy wrecks the engine. This requires a complete engine strip and lifting the crank out to get at the slingers. Rather then risk wrecking the engine by leaving the cleaning or attempting to do it myself (I'm a builder not a mechanic :blast) I will probably take the engine out and get a workshop to sort it and use the strip down as an opportunity to clean the engine casings.
Can anyone recommend the best people for working on old beemers? I don't mind travelling.
Click to expand...

The problem with what you are asking is people would not just do a slinger clean.

They would do a complete crank/bearing/conrod inspection,test and report. You may then find although your engine is running well, it could cost you a lot of money just to have your slingers cleaned.

I have sent you a p.m. with a telephone number of a guy who lives not a million miles from you and is willing to have a chat.
 
Thank's to everyone who has replied and PMed :beerjug:
The general consensus and best advice is that as the bike is running really well, just keep the oil changed and ride the thing. Best to start working on the engine if something goes wrong. So that's what I am going to do :beerjug:
 
Mr Farmer and Mr Nimrod did make I laugh. I had the same experience with Mr Price but I here he is a very busy man. His sucessor has since done three certs for me. Pre 69 engine tools all on my rack. Jim.
 
Devon said:
The general consensus and best advice is that as the bike is running really well, just keep the oil changed and ride the thing. Best to start working on the engine if something goes wrong. So that's what I am going to do :beerjug:
Click to expand...

Well................... that was 6 months ago and I have changed my mind (again) about leaving the slingers. I have a mate who is a superb engineer and he will go through the engine and change the slingers. We will probably take the engine out next week and start taking it to bits.


This is where the bike is at now after a wheel rebuild and new paint.
r6 rebuild.jpg
 
Andy the bikes looking good :thumby:

I have a few engine/gearbox tools etc, can't remember who makes them now but they may come in handy for future use,

Call in the next time you're up this way, you can have them foc

ps, dont use flushing oil on the engine as it could loosen the crud already in the slingers, and then it blocks the oil galleries , just a thought :blast

pps I have a couple of spare wheels you can have too,

Cheers Graham
 
Elvisto said:
Andy the bikes looking good :thumby:

I have a few engine/gearbox tools etc, can't remember who makes them now but they may come in handy for future use,

Call in the next time you're up this way, you can have them foc

ps, dont use flushing oil on the engine as it could loosen the crud already in the slingers, and then it blocks the oil galleries , just a thought :blast

pps I have a couple of spare wheels you can have too,

Cheers Graham
Click to expand...

Many Thank's for the advice and a big Thank You for the Bits Graham, nice to meet up with you again (albeit briefly) this morning :beerjug:
 
Well we thought we would have a look inside the engine before we took it out to strip the crank down. The push rod seals needed renewing anyway so there was nothing to lose. The engine has obviously been worked on not too many miles back and the bores were good with second oversize pistons fitted(73mm).
The oil slingers can just be seen when the barrel is removed and low and behold, from the side they appear shiny and almost new :bounce1 :bounce1 :bounce1
So I am happy to just replace the push rod tubes and seals and generally clean the outside of the engine.
The heads have been stripped and will be vapour blasted and the barrels can be repainted black, when these jobs are done the bike can be put back together and should be running in a week or so with any luck :beerjug:

X marks one of the the oil slingers to the left of the con rod.

oil slinger.jpg
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top Bottom