Saturday 13th September 2014
Cody to Jackson Hole via Highway 20 & Yellowstone Park.
Another late start today. I'm up early enough but it's a cracking looking day weather wise so I spend the 1st hour or so getting the bike clean. Everyone else has gone as I check out but just as I start the engine ion the bike Sandra & Glyn roll back into the hotel forecourt. They've had a late start too after their verrrrrry long excursion & late night yesterday, and have been looking for the Buffalo Bill Visitor Centre but without luck. They followed me down the street and I left them at the Visitor Centre to have a mooch round. I didn't bother - maybe next time.
It's true - the camera doesn't lie.
On the way out of Cody there is a little theme park showing life in Bill Cody's time & a reservoir visitor centre - I passed them both but some of the other guys visited them.
This highlights the beauty of Bilcos trips. You come & go as you please but in the knowledge that there's always going to be a friendly face along within minutes if you do stop. I lost count of the times I'd be standing at the side of the road eating a Marathon Bar or an apple & someone from the group would poddle past with a friendly wave, or pull in for a natter & then set of with you for the next few miles. Perfect, absolutely perfect.
Nope, the sun was up & the road was another blinder. I was in no rush but I was happy on the bike. I did have a brief stop to check out a Firefighters Memorial but this was in a lay by & was pretty much a hop on, hop off stop of no more than 5 minutes.
It highlights the size & scale of the fires they have in this country & the dangers to those who tackle them.
Wildfires are not uncommon in North America and in recent years the authorities have adopted a different approach to tackling them. Previously they would try to stop any wildfires but unless started by man they now let them burn themselves out, controlling them away from houses of course.
The reason for this is that they now understand that wildfires are a natural thing & needed to regenerate growth & propagate new shoots for smaller animals to live on, which the birds & bigger animals live on etc etc etc.
The pines in a lot of North American forests won't release their seeds until the temperature becomes extreme, 135C IIRC. So a fire starts, the trees get enveloped in flame & it gets pretty warm. The firs release their seed but the hot air keeps the seeds out of the flames. As the flames die down the seeds can now fall to the scorched but bare earth & the whole cycle starts again. Brilliant.
Just as I'm heading back to the bike I spot a buffalo resting in the grass no more than 50 yards from me. He's all on his own, halfway between Cody & the entrance to Yellowstone. It comes as a bit of a shock to me, I mean, I'm used to seeing rabbits & hares grazing at the side of the road but buffaloes? This far out of the park? He's quite clearly settled though.
Back on the bike, & back to fabulous riding through more superb but entirely different scenery. Time for another quick stop & photo of the bike though - I have cleaned her after all.
As I'm about to head into Yellowstone there's another buffalo, this time he's wandering along (& all over) the road. I'm a little more cautious this time staying on the bike with the engine running but he mooches past me, no more than 10 feet away & meanders down the road towards Cody.
As went back into Jellystone I asked the girl on the gate about the 2 loan buffaloes* I'd seen. I know they are a herding animal & I'm worried that these 2 might be outcasts, rejected by the herd & left to fend for themselves in what is going to be a long & very harsh winter. I'm horrified that they're going to die, all alone, starved to death. Not the case, however. As winter starts to draw in (though you wouldn't know it from the weather we're having today) the buffalo* start to make their way to lower ground. These 2 have just set off a little earlier than the others but would be joined by the rest of their herd as the days & weeks moved on. Phew.
Quite what I would have done had she confirmed my initial fears I'm note sure. I couldn't just leave them to die but on the other hand the panniers are full & whilst there's a bit of room in the Lomo bag I'm not sure how I'm going to get them through customs or what the dogs would make of them when I got them home.
*What is the plural of buffalo? Buffalo or buffaloes?
Into Yellowstone & signs of one of those wildfires I've been reading about.
After the miserable weather of our 1st day in the park I'm determined to take my time today & get some more pictures.
Yellowstone Lake is huge. 30 miles long & over 100 miles from the nearest main road.
All along the edge of it, and indeed within it, are areas of thermal activity. If the cold water doesn't get you, the boiling water will.
I was lucky enough to get very close to one of those fabulous birds of prey Sandra had spotted much earlier in the trip.
You'll note that the bird had seen the sign about staying off the thermal areas due to the dangers etc, and was sensible enough to heed the warning.........
Well not everyone was quite as bright.
Bad man that I am I was rather hoping he'd stumble & be instantly dissolved but alas it was not to be.
There's nothing more I can say about Yellowstone. Sandra was right, it's phenomenal, like most of the places we've been on this trip you could spend a fortnight in this area alone & not get bored.
A quick stop at the souvenir shop saw me spending some time with Andy, Geoff & Pete. Stickers were bought (stickers being very sought after throughout the trip, after all we have to prove that our bikes have been further than Tesco) along with gifts for friends back home. I also bought a couple of decorations for our Christmas trees, we have a tree each as Sarah thinks I have no taste. I asked Andy's advice about which decoration was the classiest (it's important to get Sarah's gift right) & he was happy to tell me 'None of them'. Oh well I bought her one anyway & delighted she was too (cough).
Back onto the bike for a final mooch round the park. I stopped to take yet another photo of yet another buffalo. This one was close to the edge of the road & people were stopping their cars to take pics through their open windows. The buffalo wasn't remotely bothered by this but once again when I stopped the bike to take a picture he was very interested. Chatting to someone about this they quite rightly pointed out that the buffalo probably doesn't regard a car as a threat per-se, but centuries of abuse by humans has marked us out as a real danger, and of course I'm much more obvious than someone in a car, more of a real threat I suppose.
I stopped at the visitor centre & spent some time listening to a Ran6er giving a talk about bears. She contradicted what we'd been told in Waterton about Black/Brown bears but didn't take kindly to me asking for clarification, 'stupid Australian' was the look on her face. One of he ways to tell whether you're in the company of a Black/Brown bear or Grizzly is the length of the claws, Grizzly bear claws being 6 inches long & razor sharp. I suppose by the time you're seeing it's claws, however, you're not too worried whether it's Black, Brown, Grizzly or anything else. She used this magnificent creature , which had unfortunately been killed by a tourist's car, to highlight some of the stuff she was talking about.
Just as I was leaving Yellowstone I passed over the continental divide, something we'd done (& would do again) numerous times but something I was completely oblivious to, until Geoff told me.
Almost out of Yellowstone now.
and straight from one National Park into another
I had no idea what to expect from The Tetons and just assumed that this was going to be a steady ride of a couple of hours into Jackson Hole with nowt much to look at. That's okay though, it was less than 100 miles (I think) & as the trip had gone on distance had become relative. Whereas in this country & Europe 100 miles till you get to where you're going seems like a potential slog, the mindset over the last 2 weeks was very much 'oh, less than 100 miles to go, excellent, nearly there now'. I suppose the brilliant roads, lack of traffic & outstanding vistas & wildlife all helped though.
So, as I say, a steady ride into Jackson with the light fading & precious little to look at.
I stopped to take it all in. Okay it was late but I had a room booked & I knew Pete, Andy & Geoff were behind me on the road.
I know I keep saying it but I was in awe of the scenery once again, pictures really don't do it justice.
I got into Jackson Hole pretty late by this trip's standards but no matter. We have a day off tomorrow to explore.
Chatting to Sam she told me that the trees we'd seen were Aspen. Chatting to Paul he told me that poor old Tony & Sue had had another tumble in Yellowstone. They'd pulled into the petrol station forecourt and spotted Glyn & Sandra. Tony, being the friendly chap he is, was so busy waving at them that he didn't spot the only dip in the forecourt just where he was putting his left foot down.
And over they went again the poor buggers.................
As it was late I had a very quick wander round Jackson Hole, grabbed a takeaway pizza, a bottle of vino & some chocolate & settled in to watch the sport on the TV.
Cody to Jackson Hole via Highway 20 & Yellowstone Park.
Another late start today. I'm up early enough but it's a cracking looking day weather wise so I spend the 1st hour or so getting the bike clean. Everyone else has gone as I check out but just as I start the engine ion the bike Sandra & Glyn roll back into the hotel forecourt. They've had a late start too after their verrrrrry long excursion & late night yesterday, and have been looking for the Buffalo Bill Visitor Centre but without luck. They followed me down the street and I left them at the Visitor Centre to have a mooch round. I didn't bother - maybe next time.
It's true - the camera doesn't lie.
On the way out of Cody there is a little theme park showing life in Bill Cody's time & a reservoir visitor centre - I passed them both but some of the other guys visited them.
This highlights the beauty of Bilcos trips. You come & go as you please but in the knowledge that there's always going to be a friendly face along within minutes if you do stop. I lost count of the times I'd be standing at the side of the road eating a Marathon Bar or an apple & someone from the group would poddle past with a friendly wave, or pull in for a natter & then set of with you for the next few miles. Perfect, absolutely perfect.
Nope, the sun was up & the road was another blinder. I was in no rush but I was happy on the bike. I did have a brief stop to check out a Firefighters Memorial but this was in a lay by & was pretty much a hop on, hop off stop of no more than 5 minutes.
It highlights the size & scale of the fires they have in this country & the dangers to those who tackle them.
Wildfires are not uncommon in North America and in recent years the authorities have adopted a different approach to tackling them. Previously they would try to stop any wildfires but unless started by man they now let them burn themselves out, controlling them away from houses of course.
The reason for this is that they now understand that wildfires are a natural thing & needed to regenerate growth & propagate new shoots for smaller animals to live on, which the birds & bigger animals live on etc etc etc.
The pines in a lot of North American forests won't release their seeds until the temperature becomes extreme, 135C IIRC. So a fire starts, the trees get enveloped in flame & it gets pretty warm. The firs release their seed but the hot air keeps the seeds out of the flames. As the flames die down the seeds can now fall to the scorched but bare earth & the whole cycle starts again. Brilliant.
Just as I'm heading back to the bike I spot a buffalo resting in the grass no more than 50 yards from me. He's all on his own, halfway between Cody & the entrance to Yellowstone. It comes as a bit of a shock to me, I mean, I'm used to seeing rabbits & hares grazing at the side of the road but buffaloes? This far out of the park? He's quite clearly settled though.
Back on the bike, & back to fabulous riding through more superb but entirely different scenery. Time for another quick stop & photo of the bike though - I have cleaned her after all.
As I'm about to head into Yellowstone there's another buffalo, this time he's wandering along (& all over) the road. I'm a little more cautious this time staying on the bike with the engine running but he mooches past me, no more than 10 feet away & meanders down the road towards Cody.
As went back into Jellystone I asked the girl on the gate about the 2 loan buffaloes* I'd seen. I know they are a herding animal & I'm worried that these 2 might be outcasts, rejected by the herd & left to fend for themselves in what is going to be a long & very harsh winter. I'm horrified that they're going to die, all alone, starved to death. Not the case, however. As winter starts to draw in (though you wouldn't know it from the weather we're having today) the buffalo* start to make their way to lower ground. These 2 have just set off a little earlier than the others but would be joined by the rest of their herd as the days & weeks moved on. Phew.
Quite what I would have done had she confirmed my initial fears I'm note sure. I couldn't just leave them to die but on the other hand the panniers are full & whilst there's a bit of room in the Lomo bag I'm not sure how I'm going to get them through customs or what the dogs would make of them when I got them home.
*What is the plural of buffalo? Buffalo or buffaloes?
Into Yellowstone & signs of one of those wildfires I've been reading about.
After the miserable weather of our 1st day in the park I'm determined to take my time today & get some more pictures.
Yellowstone Lake is huge. 30 miles long & over 100 miles from the nearest main road.
All along the edge of it, and indeed within it, are areas of thermal activity. If the cold water doesn't get you, the boiling water will.
I was lucky enough to get very close to one of those fabulous birds of prey Sandra had spotted much earlier in the trip.
You'll note that the bird had seen the sign about staying off the thermal areas due to the dangers etc, and was sensible enough to heed the warning.........
Well not everyone was quite as bright.
Bad man that I am I was rather hoping he'd stumble & be instantly dissolved but alas it was not to be.
There's nothing more I can say about Yellowstone. Sandra was right, it's phenomenal, like most of the places we've been on this trip you could spend a fortnight in this area alone & not get bored.
A quick stop at the souvenir shop saw me spending some time with Andy, Geoff & Pete. Stickers were bought (stickers being very sought after throughout the trip, after all we have to prove that our bikes have been further than Tesco) along with gifts for friends back home. I also bought a couple of decorations for our Christmas trees, we have a tree each as Sarah thinks I have no taste. I asked Andy's advice about which decoration was the classiest (it's important to get Sarah's gift right) & he was happy to tell me 'None of them'. Oh well I bought her one anyway & delighted she was too (cough).
Back onto the bike for a final mooch round the park. I stopped to take yet another photo of yet another buffalo. This one was close to the edge of the road & people were stopping their cars to take pics through their open windows. The buffalo wasn't remotely bothered by this but once again when I stopped the bike to take a picture he was very interested. Chatting to someone about this they quite rightly pointed out that the buffalo probably doesn't regard a car as a threat per-se, but centuries of abuse by humans has marked us out as a real danger, and of course I'm much more obvious than someone in a car, more of a real threat I suppose.
I stopped at the visitor centre & spent some time listening to a Ran6er giving a talk about bears. She contradicted what we'd been told in Waterton about Black/Brown bears but didn't take kindly to me asking for clarification, 'stupid Australian' was the look on her face. One of he ways to tell whether you're in the company of a Black/Brown bear or Grizzly is the length of the claws, Grizzly bear claws being 6 inches long & razor sharp. I suppose by the time you're seeing it's claws, however, you're not too worried whether it's Black, Brown, Grizzly or anything else. She used this magnificent creature , which had unfortunately been killed by a tourist's car, to highlight some of the stuff she was talking about.
Just as I was leaving Yellowstone I passed over the continental divide, something we'd done (& would do again) numerous times but something I was completely oblivious to, until Geoff told me.
Almost out of Yellowstone now.
and straight from one National Park into another
I had no idea what to expect from The Tetons and just assumed that this was going to be a steady ride of a couple of hours into Jackson Hole with nowt much to look at. That's okay though, it was less than 100 miles (I think) & as the trip had gone on distance had become relative. Whereas in this country & Europe 100 miles till you get to where you're going seems like a potential slog, the mindset over the last 2 weeks was very much 'oh, less than 100 miles to go, excellent, nearly there now'. I suppose the brilliant roads, lack of traffic & outstanding vistas & wildlife all helped though.
So, as I say, a steady ride into Jackson with the light fading & precious little to look at.
I stopped to take it all in. Okay it was late but I had a room booked & I knew Pete, Andy & Geoff were behind me on the road.
I know I keep saying it but I was in awe of the scenery once again, pictures really don't do it justice.
I got into Jackson Hole pretty late by this trip's standards but no matter. We have a day off tomorrow to explore.
Chatting to Sam she told me that the trees we'd seen were Aspen. Chatting to Paul he told me that poor old Tony & Sue had had another tumble in Yellowstone. They'd pulled into the petrol station forecourt and spotted Glyn & Sandra. Tony, being the friendly chap he is, was so busy waving at them that he didn't spot the only dip in the forecourt just where he was putting his left foot down.
And over they went again the poor buggers.................
As it was late I had a very quick wander round Jackson Hole, grabbed a takeaway pizza, a bottle of vino & some chocolate & settled in to watch the sport on the TV.
)
I don't normally feel the cold but I was still chilly from the ride & I wasn't the only one. Not to worry it soon blew over. It also turned out that tonight was Paul & Sam's wedding anniversary, I can think of worse places to celebrate. Happy anniversary chaps. 
