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ShakeyGS

ShakeyGS

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I’m off to the USA with Sgt Bilco in July but before that, I’m taking some folk over the North Sea for their maiden Euro tour (Luxembourg and then the Mosel). Tour distance is about 1500 miles.

So, plan A - complete the Euro tour then do a full 18000 mile service on the bike including all,oils and filters, new plugs and valve clearances, rear brake disc and new pads all round; full bolt torque check and general Alaskan bike prep.

Trouble is, I’m likely to hit 18000 miles even before going to Europe so what’s my best plan B?

- just change the oil and then do a full service on return?
- do the full service spec now and just do the brakes after Europe (they’ll be fine for this)

Or is there another option that will suit the bike better?

TIA

PS, the bike is just out of warranty and this will be the first service other than fluids that I’ve done on the bike. I do have a gs911.
 
ShakeyBMW said:
I’m off to the USA with Sgt Bilco in July but before that, I’m taking some folk over the North Sea for their maiden Euro tour (Luxembourg and then the Mosel).

So, plan A - complete the Euro tour then do a full 18000 mile service on the bike including all,oils and filters, new plugs and valve clearances, rear brake disc and new pads all round; full bolt torque check and general Alaskan bike prep.

Trouble is, I’m likely to hit 18000 miles even before going to Europe so what’s my best plan B?

- just change the oil and then do a full service on return?
- do the full service spec now and just do the brakes after Europe (they’ll be fine for this)

Or is there another option that will suit the bike better?

TIA

PS, the bike is just out of warranty and this will be the first service other than fluids that I’ve done on the bike. I do have a gs911.
Click to expand...
Unless you have any specific concerns, and that the brakes will last your European bash, I'd do oil/filters now and 18k when you return from Europe.

Others may have different views.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
Smogbob said:
I would do the full service now, then you will see all is ok for the USA tour pending your Euro jog
Click to expand...
True, but this means the next 6000 mile service interval will happen 2/3 of the way through the USA tour. Then it needs to be ridden from Worcester back to Aberdeen before I can get my tools on it so more like 7000 miles.

I might go with TAG’s approach as I have Euro breakdown cover with BMW. I’ll exceed the interval before the pre USA tour service but I’m less worried about that. Damn these short service intervals :D
 
As you are doing it yourself then do a full service before both trips. You don't want to have any issues during either trip I imagine, that's what I would do any.
 
Seeing as an 18k service is a "small" minor service and isn't a "biggie" i'd do just an oil and filter change before your euro jaunt and do a major service when you get back before Sgt Bilcos trip in July.
 
Your bike won’t fall apart and die just coz you go a bit over 6000 miles. The oil and filter will continue to do their thing just fine. My last USA trip was 15500 miles. I had one service during it after about the first 7,000 in Fairbanks. When I got home and drained the 8,000 mile old oil it didn’t look smell or feel any different to 6,000 mile old oil. Same last year up to Nordkapp: 7,000 ish miles and all was good and I didn’t worry about it.

I look at brake pads and peruse the bike for loose looking bits far more frequently than just every 6000. You could just put new brake pads in regardless (it’s what I do before a long trip) and either store the old uns at home for reuse or take them with you as spares. If you are really paranoid about oil it’s simple enough to change it almost anywhere. You could even leave the filter in.
 
I agree with above. Especially as I persume you will be doing longish stints the oil will be getting hot enough to evorpate any condensation out of it. It’s short journeys that hammer oil. JJH
 
Steptoe said:
Seeing as an 18k service is a "small" minor service and isn't a "biggie" i'd do just an oil and filter change before your euro jaunt and do a major service when you get back before Sgt Bilcos trip in July.
Click to expand...

I put some meaningful data into RSD and it said exactly this. I also need to change the brake fluid. Does anyone know if I need to use the gs911 to run the ABS pump when doing this or is it a simple replace and bleed?
I know I should find a procedure in RSD but I haven’t time to look until later.


Thanks for all the responses :thumb
 
OK so now I've watched the video I'm none the wiser. That procedure appears to displace air from the ABS pump into the rest of the system which is then removed by a standard bleed on the front and rear circuits. I'm not convinced it moves any fluid through the ABS pump though so surely some old fluid would be left behind?
 
I can not see the video for some reason, but you can use the GS911 to help bleed the air out of the brakes.

Apologies if that's what the video said... Enjoy your trips...:beerjug:
 
ShakeyBMW said:
OK so now I've watched the video I'm none the wiser. That procedure appears to displace air from the ABS pump into the rest of the system which is then removed by a standard bleed on the front and rear circuits. I'm not convinced it moves any fluid through the ABS pump though so surely some old fluid would be left behind?
Click to expand...

Is this one anymore Help

 
Yes I think it is. Thanks for your effort and patience. I owe you a few Rothaus :beer:

So to check my understanding (without having a hydraulic line diagram);

When we do the mechanical flush, the fluid goes via the ABS pump before exiting at the caliper. That's how the fluid is changed.
Running the pump using the 911gs simply displaces any bubbles of air into the line so that the next mechanical bleed can move them along.

How did I do? :P

It's hardly a subsea master control unit is it :blast
 
ShakeyBMW said:
Yes I think it is. Thanks for your effort and patience. I owe you a few Rothaus

So to check my understanding (without having a hydraulic line diagram);

When we do the mechanical flush, the fluid goes via the ABS pump before exiting at the caliper. That's how the fluid is changed.
Running the pump using the 911gs simply displaces any bubbles of air into the line so that the next mechanical bleed can move them along.

How did I do?

It's hardly a subsea master control unit is it :blast
Click to expand...
Success on a plate.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
ShakeyBMW said:
Yes I think it is. Thanks for your effort and patience. I owe you a few Rothaus :beer:

So to check my understanding (without having a hydraulic line diagram);

When we do the mechanical flush, the fluid goes via the ABS pump before exiting at the caliper. That's how the fluid is changed.
Running the pump using the 911gs simply displaces any bubbles of air into the line so that the next mechanical bleed can move them along.

How did I do? :P

It's hardly a subsea master control unit is it :blast
Click to expand...

Few Jever,s will do fine, my preferred bier

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jever_Brewery
 
I’ve seen the label but not tried the beer. I’m very fond of Rothaus and once brought a couple of crates back from Freising. I hardly ever see it anywhere else in Germany despite its alleged popularity.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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