Paint suggestions for touching up the silver swingarm casing

Morety

Morety

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Asper title, has anyone suggestions for a touch up paint to take care of small corrosion areas on the rear bevel box/casing? Was cleaning the bike today ready to take an associate out tomorrow when I noted a small area just starting to corrode around the rear wheel bearing sleeve on the casing. Oddly I also found a small area on the front wheel where the anodising seems to have worn through. I did plaster the bike in ACF over the winter but it wasn't enough to prevent these small blemishes.
 
Correction, wheels are painted so it must be the matt silver paint rubbed off. I don't use corrosive wheel cleaner, just pH neutral snow foam when cleaning the bike. Anyone at all know the correct paint code for the matt silver wheels?
 
Right....finally found the correct paint code after lots of phone calls!

For anyone else looking for the correct paint code for silver wheels, which should be the same for all 2017 onwards RT's, it's M955 "White Aluminium" matt.

Basecoat may need an additional coat of matt lacquer once dried.
 
owl said:
Is that the same code for the bevel box?
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Not sure as Motorrad said they didn't have the paint code, but it looks pretty close as a match to me. You'll need a clear matt lacquer too. I'm unsure of which type to use but contacting a paint shop, they said avoid 2K lacquers as they're pretty nasty without using a P2/F2 mask and for a rattle can, 1K Nitro lacquers seem the way to go, so may buy some ProXL matt lacquer.
 
Paint arrived, wheel prepped and bike masked off where needed. Two coats applied. Initially I thought it a little darker the the original but it dried to a very close match. Feathered it in either side of damage and three coats was needed. Now to let it cure 48hrs and I'll apply the 2K top coat. Expensive fix as paints came to £45 for a 6 inch repair area but at least it's done. Beneath original paint it looks like a dull gold anodising or primer coat. I'll be interesting to see if the paint takes properly as if anodised it would have needed an etch primer first but all I could see was the top coat (painfully thin) and goldish rim finish underneath.
 
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IMG_1689.jpg

You can see the slight graduation where the fresh paint meets existing, below the slight damage caused where a pervious wheel weight was stuck to the lower right of the picture. Not a bad match. Not a great paint job but better tan it was.
 
2K 2-part topcoat added and now blends way better than before with satin finish. Ended up with 3 base coats and 4 top coats. Turned out a really tidy job and more importantly, that 2K won't rub through and is chemical resistant against oils/petrol not that I plan on getting any on the wheels! Also much more durable than 1K and bike should be good for an outing within 24 hours. Flash time between top coats is only 5 minutes and it covers very evenly. Initial cure time is half a day, full curing time is a week but hope to be able to ride out tomorrow on dry roads.
 
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