panel removal/ spark plugs

[ghost-rider31]

hiya all!

Id like to inspect me spark plugs,just as a matter of course really, but before i attempt it, any advice on how to get to em,panel removal etc. Ive got as far as removing the top panel(ignition switch etc.) but then after that, it looks like its a case of just knowing what to remove and what not to remove

any help greatly appreciated

 

[Dave Ett]

No point removing that I don't think. You access them by taking the side panel off.

 

[yamalada]

I've heard rumours that a Haynes manual should be available in september.

 

[Sooty09]

The panels remove very easily, Start with the ignition switch surround followed by the top panel and then both side panels. Just make sure you remove all the screws, no force is required and if you are tugging you have left a screw in (Don't forget the side panel to screen fixing and make sure you do not loose the square brass insert)
Thats as far as I have gone so far, the manual says next you need to remove the battery and air box from the injectors. The coils pull off the plugs with a special tool but this can probably be improvised. The plugs are deep down in the top of the head and will need a long reach plug spanner to get at them.

Its a big job and BMW suggest this is at 40,000 km. Plugs are so good now and the operating conditions for a plug in a modern engine are so much more controlled its unlikely you need to disturb them unless you are having a problem. Is it essential you remove the plugs?

 

[Greggers]

I'm with Sooty on this one.

Having installed a Power Commander I've been into the top half as far as the cam cover - it's not difficult, but a time consuming job, and of course you have to remove the battery which will upset the OBC which will demand that you take it back to an AD to reset it ... DAMHIKT

Quite honestly, unless you have a need to get in there, I'd leave well alone - as the adage goes, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

G

 

[ghost-rider31]

i aint got a problem atall(touch wood) the bikes runnin sweet, what it is, is i serviced the bike today, oil, air filter etc., and for what it was worth i thought id change the plugs(theym only a fiver a piece) and me being the second owner an all that, yes its got full bm service history, but being perfectly honest im a bit fussy like that, start as you mean to go on thats my motto

here what you say tho about it being a pain in the arse job, i'll have another look tomora and tek it from there

 

[GunZenBomZ]

ghost-rider31 I'd recommend if your going to remove battery, add some new wire to the positive & negative terminals & extend them to the orginal terminals. (So you keep the onboard computer powered) Or you will have the service light constantly on till your next service.

 

[Blind Lemon Ade]

The panels remove very easily, Start with the ignition switch surround followed by the top panel and then both side panels. Just make sure you remove all the screws, no force is required and if you are tugging you have left a screw in (Don't forget the side panel to screen fixing and make sure you do not loose the square brass insert)...

...watch out for the indicators, which come off with the side panels. There's a fiddly little CANBUS* connector so you can disconnect them from the loom, and you need to cut off a cable-tie on each side to do that...

...and there are two screws under the beak on each side which are b*st*rds to get back in!

(*y'know what I mean... strange BMW wiring thingy!)

Er... this is for a 650... is the 800 the same?

 

[Micky]

For the 800 as above...

Top panel off ... don't forget the two screws either side of the ignition switch
Both side panels off, on the 800 the indicators remain mounted and are of no concern

Battery top cover/securing remove
Disconnect battery ... remove
Air box remove
For the air box two mounting screws under the battery with big washers
Mounting screws at the rear. You can leave the air schnorkels and air filter in place
Electrical connections to be removed, slight upward movement of the air box and you'll see 'em. Don't force anything
Breather tube from air box to valve cover to remove, but the air box can be moved to one side if careful
Two air tubes from 'carbs' up to the air box to remove from the air box
Gently ease the air box up and have a good look round before easing away, they are just a push fit on to the air intakes
Be extra careful ... the small plastic take offs for the air tubes and the blanked off one for use of ScottOiler can easily be broken off
You'll need the proper puller for the ignition coil spark plug tops ... risk of damage without!

Just be extra careful and methodical, but I might just add that if it aint broke then don't mend it. The plugs only want changing every 24K and they are perfectly OK sat down there without anyone meddling

Plus what GunZenBlomZ says ... disconnect the battery and you'll have 'service at...' come up on the display ... that will want resetting!

Plus what Blind Lemon Ade says ... the four mounting screws for the side panels to the front beak can be a bugger ... until you note how the small black plastic piece underneath the headlight fits in, like a jigsaw, between the two side panels. Piece of cake then

 

[Sooty09]

Just as the press blurb stated,
"The engine is designed for easy maintenance"
Shame they forgot to mention the other components in the way.

This could be why my local dealer suggests the valves are only checked at 18000 or 24000. They claim they have not had to adjust a valve on any 800 engine until 24000.(They also stamp the warranty book as complete)

We have an 18000 service soon and we have asked for a valve check, now I'm thinking they should change the plugs and do a careful inspection of the valve cover gasket while they are in there, then seal it up for another 18000.

 

[sijohnston]

my plugs were changed last week. one of them was rusted to the hilt and wouldn't come out, so a tool needed tweaked on the lathe to get it out. the other one looked better but the ceramic was cracked. both still worked, but for how long?

 

[twisticles]

my plugs were changed last week. one of them was rusted to the hilt and wouldn't come out, so a tool needed tweaked on the lathe to get it out. the other one looked better but the ceramic was cracked. both still worked, but for how long?

Yeah had both mine changed at 6k service, both rusted. Probably as a result of standing for 3 months during the 08/09 winter when I was overseas.