Pannier heatsheild

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shuck raider said:
I fitted the genuine Beemer bit yesterday as I was a bit concerned that the new Remus just about cleared the pannier by half an inch. The guy in the Parts Dept had the decency to look vaguely guilty in asking for nine quid for a 6"x4" bit of wadding with some tinfoil attached.

Nonetheless, it definitely does the biz. I went for a 40 mile each way run today and everything was nice and cool inside the box when I stopped. Thinking that the problem might arise when actually stopped, I hung about for 10 minutes to see if there was any heat transfer when static, but everything was hunky dory and the beer and sarnies were fine.

The self-adhesive bit went on OK but I ran a bead of Evo-Stik around the edge 'cos it looked as if it might fray after a bit. Seems to be glass-fibre wadding in the middle? It works, anyway.

Part no. for the 'wad' please?
 
£0.02

My guess it happens when you get a back fire, which I would guess all of a sudden inreases the gas flow out of whatever end can and then due to the turbulence torches whatever is in the way. Which is why some torch the indicator others do the pannier and others have no problem.
 
Lack of a cat..

By taking the cat out,, the exhaust gasses hit the atmoshphere at higher temps as they get out faster( shorter distance and no chemical reaction),, hence the reason for the increase in better revving and feeling of a freeyer engine..

Problem is if you running at high throttle revs for prolonged period and you run hi octain fuel eg optimax.. then you get hotter gassess..

I am no expert, but that is my understanding on how things work. I stand to be corrected if someone with a bit more technical knowledge of cats etc is able..
 
Re: Lack of a cat..

rocks said:
By taking the cat out,, the exhaust gasses hit the atmoshphere at higher temps as they get out faster( shorter distance and no chemical reaction),, hence the reason for the increase in better revving and feeling of a freeyer engine..

Problem is if you running at high throttle revs for prolonged period and you run hi octane fuel eg Optimax.. then you get hotter gasses....

Sounds feasible. I was using 97 octane, at high revs, for 4 hours.
But - the meltdown was 6 inches from the end of the can, and air was passing this at 70mph. Must be feckin' hot gasses!

Cheers,

Neil.
 
Tim at Cooper Reading checked with WMB - they said the Y piece causes the gasses to run hotter, so no warranty replacement.
Tim does have a second-hand WMB pannier for £70 for me, which now has heat proof foil on it . . . .

What's the consensus on spending this £70 for another plastic box, or putting that dosh towards some "metal boxes"?


Cheers,


Neil.
 
Metal boxes

Fine if you want to deliver pizzas or want to cook your food in the metal boxes which will still be hot inside.

BTW did Coopers fit the y-piece? If they did how come they fitted something which they didn't know how it would affect the bike? Or is that why they're offering a deal on a pannier? And is £70 a good deal for one pannier?
 
Remus do an extension that bolts on the end of the silencer.Looks a bit Heath Robinson but told it does the trick
 
skywalker said:
Remus do an extension that bolts on the end of the silencer.Looks a bit Heath Robinson but told it does the trick

I've got one if anyone wants it......still in original wrapper, unopened......yours for 23 quid.....can be delivered at hog roast.:D
 
Re: Metal boxes

John Armstrong said:
BTW did Coopers fit the y-piece? If they did how come they fitted something which they didn't know how it would affect the bike? Or is that why they're offering a deal on a pannier? And is £70 a good deal for one pannier?

I fitted the Y piece. Coopers would only fit a Laser Y piece and exhaust. Splits a hair a little, doesn't it?


Cheers,

Neil.
 
Does rather split hairs, which is why I wasn't too unhappy that the dealer fitted my y-piece and offered to replace the carcass and fit the wadding on FOC when I showed them what had happened.

BTW have you had a look at the 1200 GS pannier? It's got what looks to me like a heat shield already there, and that is of course with the original cat / exhaust! Must be a hot little burger.;)
 
pannier heatshield for £3.04p @ B&Q!

Hello honky-tonks,

As I have just aquired a set of system panniers & have a Remus fitted I cast about for something usefull after seeing the pics on the board. H**fords don't seem to do anything but I found this " soldering pad " at B&Q warehouse for £3.04p each. Its used to shield the wallpaper etc when soldering joints in situ.

H**fords do a small tube of automotive rummerized sealant for under £4 that is weather proof and stays flexible under vibration so I am going to fix it to the panniers with that. I bought 2 to go the full length of the pannie & round the bottom corner where the exiting gasses expel.

Hopefully a pic is attatched with a AA card for scale.

PS. B&Q warehouse only had one in stock, so I nipped to a normal one where the price was £5.95!! When I showed the tillist my reciept for t'uther they reduced it. So try a warehouse first although £6 is better than your panties spread down the M6.

Harlequin6
 
Re: Lack of a cat..

rocks said:
By taking the cat out,, the exhaust gasses hit the atmoshphere at higher temps as they get out faster( shorter distance and no chemical reaction),, hence the reason for the increase in better revving and feeling of a freeyer engine..

I see where you're coming from and whilst it's generally true that a freer-flowing zorst system helps to make more power (there are exceptions), I'm not sure the logic behind the above is correct.

I am not a fizzy-cyst or chemist but from experience with my previous bike (tuned-to-f*ck Kwak ZX-12R), I'd have guessed the opposite was true; the catalytic converter by design gets very hot; that's how it works. :rolleyes:

Shortly after I got the -12R and whilst it was still bone-stock, we did a little jolly jaunt to Monza and back for the WSB. All of my compadres complained at one point or another after having been behind me in a peage queue, etc. about the amazing volume and intensity of hot gases coming from the tailpipe of my bike.

Later, when I'd had it tuned and had dumped the ocean-liner-sized end-can and system (complete with its catalytic converter) in favour of a (stultifyingly loud) full race system from Muzzy's the heat diminished tremendously.

The stock system used to get sooo hot that a cow-orker of mine, upon seeing the bike for the first time with its monolithic titanium end-can, could not resist touching the shiny thing.


Before I'd had a chance to scream "NOOO!!!", he placed his palm on it. There was a momentary sizzling noise, a smell of cooked flesh and he withdrew his hand with a yelp, leaving the first layer or two of epidermis behind in an almost perfect hand-print. :yikes :D

Problem is if you running at high throttle revs for prolonged period and you run hi octain fuel eg optimax.. then you get hotter gassess..

Umm, if you run at higher revs, you get more but not necessarily hotter gases. Besides, one of the key things about fuels with higher octane ratings is that they actually burn cooler, allowing higher compression ratios, more advance on the ignition timing, etc. Besides, why would you want to run a standard GS on Optimax (or similar) unless you're a multi-millionaire with money to burn?

I am no expert, but that is my understanding on how things work. I stand to be corrected if someone with a bit more technical knowledge of cats etc is able..

Heh, me either; paging Ole Holmblad!!http://tinyurl.com/23vvs :D

Rik.
 
I know this is an old thread but...

I have been looking at this picture..
attachment.php


An noticed the end cap looks to be at the wrong angle. Just checked mine and it looks like the end cap expels gasses at a more horizontal angle. the one pictured looks as if it has been rotated to a higher angle and would cause the melting of the pannier .

Or am I imagining it?

I went from Midlands to Torquay and back again all at Motorway sreeds;) with std can and Remus Y-Peice with no problems.

:beerjug:
 
Yeah Andy

The can is definitely out of line since I put the Y piece in. At one stage it was touching the pannier - even in the picture you can see how close it is to the pannier!

A lot of GS's I've looked at for comparison with WMB panniers and standard cans have up to 2" clearance. I've tried washers etc on the hanger but it does seem to move offline again over time. I'm wondering if the Sebring Y pieces are not made quite right?

Cheers,

Neil.
 


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