Paralever bearing adjustment

norris

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Does adjusting the paralever bearing work long term? And if so should I heat the bolts up before unlocking and adjusting them. I ask cos I have done some searches and got conflicting views or only half the story on how to do it (or the whole story if I wanted to replace the bearings not just tweak them) Cheers in advance. .....and if I have missed an obvious link that is because I am an idiot.
 
bearings

Adjusting does work ok definate heat required as the lock nut is VERY tight
so geta good fit ring spanner on it but it does need getting hot. also lube the bearings before reassembly. Do a search in the font of wisdom itr must be in there,
dave GS
 
Does adjusting the paralever bearing work long term? And if so should I heat the bolts up before unlocking and adjusting them. I ask cos I have done some searches and got conflicting views or only half the story on how to do it (or the whole story if I wanted to replace the bearings not just tweak them) Cheers in advance. .....and if I have missed an obvious link that is because I am an idiot.

adjustment works but imho not for long, whenever mine have needed adjustment the races have always been marked. i've always felt better about replaceing mine. yes it needs lots of heat to adjust/remove . i have always assembled with a lighter strength loctite, i know some reassemble without but use paint marks for refrence.

Hman
 
As said, adjusting does work and heat is usually required because the pivot-pins and the lock-nut are usually loctited (it needs to be softened enough to free them).

Adjustment is okay as a short-term fix if the bearings are badly worn or notched. Stick a finger inside the bearing and feel if it rotates smoothly.

Look at the pivot pin when it's out....

649468831_Wpp3K-M.jpg


if it's scored or worn then you need to replace them before too long.
 
Assuming your paralever bearings are in good condition, maintenance will preserve them for a long time, If they have been negleted replacement is best and then regular maintance, I dont use loctite at all, never seen one come loose, and makes maintenance easier, use paint spot to moniter the locknut if you want :thumb
 
I did remove the torque reaction arm and swing the drive housing up and down to see if it felt notchy but it was fine. So I just wondered if it just needed tweaking. On some sites they say the bmuw bearing isn't up to the job and recomend an aftermarket one but I'm really not sure that is a good idea at all, so it kind of leaves you thinking "who does actually know through experience what the f88k they are on about?":nenau
 
I did remove the torque reaction arm and swing the drive housing up and down to see if it felt notchy but it was fine.

You wont feel much that way unless their really bad, best way is to place your finger in the hole in the centre of the bearing and to push and twist, you will feel notchiness if they are worn, also a visual inspection of the races.

The phospher bronze bushing option as replacement does not receive good reviews, best stick with oe IMHO
 
Better get myself one of those 30mm sockets with the window cut out then. Cheers for the replies chaps.:beerjug:
 
Better get myself one of those 30mm sockets with the window cut out then. Cheers for the replies chaps.:beerjug:
If you fancy a ride down the M5/A38 to Plymouth, you can either borrow mine, or do the job on my bike lift.
 
It's definitely worth removing the pin and inspecting it / 'feeling' the bearing.

When I got my 1100, there was no play in the paralever but the bearings had been 'adjusted' to the point that they'd locked up due to the brinelled races and were spinning on the pivot pinions (thus knackering the pinion). I only discovered this when removing the swingarm to change the gearbox output shaft seal.

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Gyx_bW6yMaDjDDGXU_r3AQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rKRW5TSWfCA/ScdT8GssOYI/AAAAAAAABZ4/KJECD6reJvE/s800/IMG_4344.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/znc3Jbq76tCUmXKZ3__fRA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ClzF04ZZJfw/ScdT25m9P6I/AAAAAAAABZc/eGuPFyLf73M/s800/IMG_4347.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QYGeApJd4sZr46UMKRiHIg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-o7IphDpMLwg/ScfFUaRrf7I/AAAAAAAABhM/F8RXGshEY50/s800/IMG_4351.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a>
 
I replaced mine , used a lighter loctite and marked with paint , no problems , got kit from the usual suspects . Easy enough job when you read the threads
 
Dan,

Do I remember correctly that you sell the bronze bushings?

Mark.

Yes he does. I had "JL paralevel bushings" (from Rubberchicken) on my bike before. They worked OK for some 15000kms, then had to throw them out. Reason - wrong installation. Now I have made my own version, it holds for some 5000 kms with no problems so far. I also have Dan's bushings on my table. They are different and to my mind they are better. Dan can explain why. Will try them later - maybe next season.

Anyway, not willing to go back to OEM.

G.
 
Bettar than the OEM bearings, if installed correctly ;)

Dan.

No they aren't - My original paralever bearings have done 68K miles and i see no reason why they won't do another 68K miles.

The secret is to adjust them the moment you feel the slightest amount of play. One of the benefits of taper roller bearings.
 
No they aren't - My original paralever bearings have done 68K miles and i see no reason why they won't do another 68K miles.

The secret is to adjust them the moment you feel the slightest amount of play. One of the benefits of taper roller bearings.

That's great :)

I have 30k km's on my RT having bushings and it does not require any adjustment so far :)

Dan.
 


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