Paralever bolt specification please help!

[chilipepper]

Does anyone know the specification for the bolt/stud? It appears to me to be a fully threaded m10 stud which is either 60 or 70mm long

Having spoken to BMW UK (useless still not called me back since Thursday) and BMW in Germany (helpful but they told me the stud in question isn't a discontinued item, however there are none in stock and no current plans to remanufacture!)

So I'm going down the route of having the stud made, I like Colin am unsure about what grade steel to use but having taken advice from an engineer in the nuclear industry and the head of drilling operations in North America (for a very large oil company) they are steering me down the high tensile steel route either 8.8 or 10.9 grade.

If I can find the right specification I'll get a batch of 20 or so made, James Sherlock are interested in taking some as none of the reconditioned paralever assemblies they have in sock have the studs! and he has been asked a few times about replacement's from backhanded idiots like myself

 

[ianboydsnr]

Does anyone know the specification for the bolt/stud? It appears to me to be a fully threaded m10 stud which is either 60 or 70mm long

Having spoken to BMW UK (useless still not called me back since Thursday) and BMW in Germany (helpful but they told me the stud in question isn't a discontinued item, however there are none in stock and no current plans to remanufacture!)

So I'm going down the route of having the stud made, I like Colin am unsure about what grade steel to use but having taken advice from an engineer in the nuclear industry and the head of drilling operations in North America (for a very large oil company) they are steering me down the high tensile steel route either 8.8 or 10.9 grade.

If I can find the right specification I'll get a batch of 20 or so made, James Sherlock are interested in taking some as none of the reconditioned paralever assemblies they have in sock have the studs! and he has been asked a few times about replacement's from backhanded idiots like myself

Which stud/ bolt is that then?

 

[Steptoe]

Are you talking about the rear shock absorber stud ?????

 

[chilipepper]

Are you talking about the rear shock absorber stud ?????

Yes the stud/bolt that attaches the lower end of the shock absorber to the paralever assembly on a 1988 R100GS

This picture show's it sheared off after some muppet over tighten it!! (Me)

 

[chilipepper]

For some reason when I upload portrait photographs it turns them through 90 degrees!

( Mod - Sorted for you )

 

[ianboydsnr]

If you don't get the measurement this evening I will measure mine in the morning when I get to work!

 

[Steptoe]

Yes the stud/bolt that attaches the lower end of the shock absorber to the paralever assembly on a 1988 R100GS

This picture show's it sheared off after some muppet over tighten it!! (Me)

That "bolt" isn't what it seems.

You'll see what i mean when you attempt to remove it... It's a large one piece insert type of thing that screws into the final drive, with a thin stud section (the part you've broken off) that the shock absorber mounts on.

 

[Colt]

is it pictured in post no 9 on this thread://forum.2-ventiler.de/vbboard/showthread.php?40532-Bolzen-der-Federbeinaufnahme-am-Endantrieb-wechseln-aber-wie

 

[chilipepper]

Steptoe/Colt

Unfortunately for me that must be it! BMW breakers details anyone?

 

[Rob Farmer]

If you can wait until tomorrow I'll pull the bolt from one of my spare bevel boxes and measure it up.

 

[chilipepper]

Rob

Thank you!

 

[ianboydsnr]

Opps forgot about this yesterday,

can this help?



the non threaded section is included in the thread length, and the widest diameter that is not on the drawing is 32mm!

let me know if you need anything else, I could send it to you, but I would want it back!

 

[chilipepper]

Ian

Brilliant thank you!

 

[ianboydsnr]

Ian

Brilliant thank you!

as I said if you need to borrow it, whilst you get one made, then send me it back once you have yours made, then your welcome to it, its off my spare, if you send me your address I can get it off today!

 

[chilipepper]

Ian

Thank you for your very kind offer, I have a couple of engineering companies who I hope can fabricate me a number of these. I will definitely return the bolt to you once they have analysed.

PM sent

Please let me now the cost of postage and your whiskey/tipple preference and I'll send a bottle back with the bolt!

 

[colint]

Ian

Thank you for your very kind offer, I have a couple of engineering companies who I hope can fabricate me a number of these. I will definitely return the bolt to you once they have analysed.

PM sent

Please let me now the cost of postage and your whiskey/tipple preference and I'll send a bottle back with the bolt!

Hi Put me down for one please when you get them made

 

[ianboydsnr]

it's certainly not any great high tensile type of steel, 8.8 would be fine!

 

[Rob Farmer]

Hi Put me down for one please when you get them made

I could do with three please. Just let me know how much.

 

[Beemerboff]

Most high tensile bolts get a bit of their strength from the manufacturing process - they are " cold forged" and the threads cold rolled on.

So to get the same strength as an 8.8 bolt with a turned and screw cut item you want a steel 30/40 % stronger than the steel in an 8.8 bolt.

Old car half shafts used to be the back yard engineers choice, when it was hard to get small quantities of the good stuff, but it is a bit easier today.

 

[ianboydsnr]

Most high tensile bolts get a bit of their strength from the manufacturing process - they are " cold forged" and the threads cold rolled on.

So to get the same strength as an 8.8 bolt with a turned and screw cut item you want a steel 30/40 % stronger than the steel in an 8.8 bolt.

Old car half shafts used to be the back yard engineers choice, when it was hard to get small quantities of the good stuff, but it is a bit easier today.

looking at how it was chewed taking it off, I suspect that they are not hardened at all, though that can be tested, it certainly didn't look cold forged!

if I was commissioning some, I would add a couple of flats in order to make it easier to screw into the drive, and I would probably make the shock retaining thread M12, because of the waisted end of the M10 thread being a particular weak point!