Paralever pivot pin removal

Green Boy

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Evening,

This is a bit of an odd one as can't see what I've done wrong but was trying to take the final drive off this afternoon and got the pivot bolts undone using a heat gun/ IR thermometer but could not get them out. By this I mean that they would undo but were almost like captive bolts that would rotate on the end of their thread.

They were a right twat to get back in and lined up but they went back in the end. However the the right hand one won't tighten to torque as it acts as if it is rounded off but the threads on the pin are fine. The only way that I can get it back out is to push a Stanley knife between the paralever and pin which sees to give it something to grip on and it will then undo.

It's fair to say that I'm a tad confused as have had those pins out before about year ago and I seem to remember that I just undid them after a bit of heat. Anyone got any ideas? Incidentally I put everything back together and there is not play in the back wheel and it all seems to work as before.

What am I missing?

:thumb2
 
If the right one spins, and the pin threads are good, then the threads in the swing arm could be damaged. Did you use threadlock or copper grease on the threads the last time they were apart? They are pretty fine threads and I should imagine easy to damage. Ive had mine apart a fair few times. The first time I just put the pins in dry and clean. It took a fair bit off heat and revealed some powdery corrosion when I next stripped them down. I have since always coated the threads with copper grease and reduced the torque accordingly. Not the approved method but I dont care. Mine never try to come undone unless I want them to. I hope Im wrong, otherwise a replacement swing arm may be required.
 
sounds like the bearing races are seized onto the pins

+1 :thumb2

Probably not too much of a problem if as you say the bearing appears to be doing it's thing, and you have no play. But I suspect that isn't really the case, for the bearing to seize to the pin, means you have had movement between two surface where no movement should take place. A possible point of failure.:(

The other thing I would be concerned about is if the inner race is seized on the pin, when you pulled the pin, you separated the bearing, and if so have you dropped any of the rollers out of the cage.:nenau
 
What an epic...

Firstly thanks for all the comments. After a test ride, a reasonable amount of sweating, swearing, few cold beers and a new perspective this morning, I've found the problem which turns out to be mine in origin.

Basically the last time I had the pivot pins out was when I changed the bearings in June last year which had collapsed entirely. Now what I didn't do was check the condition of the right hand pivot pin spindle which now turns out was partially worn on one side as I was in a rush. :blast

I replaced the bearings for bushes from Catadan of this parish, didn't use Loctite and all was good. The reason I was trying to take them apart yesterday was because the right rivot pin had started to creak which didn't sounds right to me and was subsequently explained by the worn pin. However when I torqued up the right hand bolt, the small amount of play caused the bronze bush to jam onto the pivot which is why I couldn't get in out yesterday. In the process of trying to remove the right pivot pin yesterday I partially buggered the tread and the only way to remove the right pivot pin with the bronze bush attached was to pull it out with a pair of mole grips.

It turns out the left hand pin came out really easily this morning when I realised that there was a small out of the original loctite jamming it.

The net result of this fiasco is that I have the opportunity to check the condition/ grease the output splines on the gearbox. I've got to the 'whatever' stage now... :augie

I'm going to put an ad on the wanted board but to cover all bases, does anyone have a paralever doing spare?

:thumb2
 
Firstly thanks for all the comments. After a test ride, a reasonable amount of sweating, swearing, few cold beers and a new perspective this morning, I've found the problem which turns out to be mine in origin.

Basically the last time I had the pivot pins out was when I changed the bearings in June last year which had collapsed entirely. Now what I didn't do was check the condition of the right hand pivot pin spindle which now turns out was partially worn on one side as I was in a rush. :blast

I replaced the bearings for bushes from Catadan of this parish, didn't use Loctite and all was good. The reason I was trying to take them apart yesterday was because the right rivot pin had started to creak which didn't sounds right to me and was subsequently explained by the worn pin. However when I torqued up the right hand bolt, the small amount of play caused the bronze bush to jam onto the pivot which is why I couldn't get in out yesterday. In the process of trying to remove the right pivot pin yesterday I partially buggered the tread and the only way to remove the right pivot pin with the bronze bush attached was to pull it out with a pair of mole grips.

It turns out the left hand pin came out really easily this morning when I realised that there was a small out of the original loctite jamming it.

The net result of this fiasco is that I have the opportunity to check the condition/ grease the output splines on the gearbox. I've got to the 'whatever' stage now... :augie

I'm going to put an ad on the wanted board but to cover all bases, does anyone have a paralever doing spare?

:thumb2

can you not just re tap the thread?

I am sure someone on here will have the tap, as they are not cheap to buy, M24 x 1.25 iirc
 
can you not just re tap the thread?

I am sure someone on here will have the tap, as they are not cheap to buy, M24 x 1.25 iirc

To be honest, that was my first thought but in order to get the pin out I effectively had to pull the thread depth out so I don't think that there is anything left to tap.
 
careful the swing arms are not all the same

That's a good point. I found a cracking 1150rs swing arm in the end with the same parts number as mine for £49 posted (James Sherlock) then had to pony up for the usual £80 for the FD needle bearings. Still compared to what I thought it was going to be this morning, I'll take that.
 


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