Peeling paint

ajd

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Banchory, Scotland
I've got a '96 1100GS, generally OK condtion but cyclinder and engine block paint peeling quite a bit in places. What's the engine block made of...is it alloy? Was the paint just for looks or is it corrosion protection and now my bike will is going to oxidise into oblivion?
 
Fair point Ugg, and well made. I can only boast 52000. My BSA is 55 years old but only done 23000 and is as over-engineered as the GS, so there's hope for the Kraut yet...
 
Its not paint flaking off, its the bolts holding on yer exhaust headers you want to check.

One time you will want to remove em, n they will be a bugger to shift.
They corrode very badly , being exposed to the elements.
 
To answer the original question......

What's the engine block made of...is it alloy? Was the paint just for looks or is it corrosion protection and now my bike will is going to oxidise into oblivion?

Yes, it's made of alloy. And the paint is very definitely for (intended) corrosion protection. Ride it without paint on our salty winter roads and it'll look a mess, but it's a big lump of alloy so it'd take a long time for the corrosion to have anything other than a cosmetic effect. It all depends on how much you care about looks. I've just repainted the engine on my 850 but it was a long job.
 
Repainting - what a scary thought. Lots of nooks and crannies. I saw a very bad repaint job on an 1100GS in Shirlaws in Aberdeen a few years ago, rather put me off. Did you just sand it down first? I've heard folk say silver Smoothrite works, is that what you used?
 
I read of a guy on Adventure Rider who completely stripped an 1100 (right down to bare crankcases) and had the various components stripped and powder coated.

While the cost of that would be ridiculous, in idle moments I have wondered what it would cost to get the heads / rocker covers and engine front cover done on mine (the rest of the engine is pretty good).

Then I come to my senses and go for a ride :)
 
Mine is pretty bad too, but I saw one that had been touched up in situ and it looked bloody awful, I reckon its just a patina :augie

Stewart
 
Repainting - what a scary thought. Lots of nooks and crannies. I saw a very bad repaint job on an 1100GS in Shirlaws in Aberdeen a few years ago, rather put me off. Did you just sand it down first? I've heard folk say silver Smoothrite works, is that what you used?

I attacked it with wire brushes of various sizes and shapes, both hand-held and in a drill. Then abrasive paper. Then more abrasive paper. And more abrasive paper. The problem is that in the places where the paint is still attached, it's REALLY attached. This means that unless you're far more dedicated than me (it's an engine, for pete's sake, not bodywork) you'll end up with a few steps showing.

I took the bike back to this:

not_quite_ready.jpg


But this picture doesn't really show quite how bad the engine paint was.

The front cover is removed because I wanted to paint that separately to get a really good finish - it's the part I took the most care over because it's most visible. Once rubbed down and thoroughly de-greased I did the whole thing with 3 coats of etch primer followed by 4 coats of silver Smoothrite.

This is the end result (I haven't got a close-up photo of the engine):

Picture107.jpg


Picture106.jpg


The front cover is near-as-damnit perfect, the rest less so. It looks good from a couple of paces away, a huge improvement on what it was like before. Close up it's slightly rough around the edges but to be honest that doesn't really bother me - I'm happy to have it looking as good as it does.

I re-finished the forks and fork bridge also with Smoothrite. The headers were in a right old state so I did them with exhaust paint but unfortuately that's already started to peel off :-( But whatever happens I'm not taking the headers off again.......
 
Superb job! You can be proud of it. If I could get mine to look that good I'd be made up.

Well it's an awkward, time-consuming, frustrating and occasionally painful job (skinned knuckles) but not a difficult one. If I did it again I absolutely WOULD NOT remove the exhaust even if it needed painting itself. I'd paint the engine around the (masked up) exhaust and then do the exhaust afterwards with the engine masked. Other than that it's just a case of taking time and doing the preparation as well as you can, and that includes thorough degreasing before paint.

I used less than a can of etch primer and a couple of cans of Smoothrite (including forks and fork bridge) so it's not expensive either.
 


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