Phoenix Tour to Turkey

[JackoUK]

Well, here I am in Itea, Greece having made the trip from the UK via Lugano in Italy. The reason the trip is called the Phoenix tour is 'cos my original trip to South Africa has been abandoned due to A) My lodgers setting fire to my house while growing Cannabis and B) My GP telling me that travel through Africa was strongly discouraged due to my incomplete hernia operation. "How do you fancy emergency surgery in Tanzania" were his words, which left me no choice. I'd sent off my cheque for the Carnet (£30089 to be exact) only the day before, but it was still a 'no brainer' for me.
I resolved to carry on with the trip as far as possible, and this led to me accompanying the other two guys (Lorry from Hampshire on a 660 Tenere and Marc on an Africa Twin) as far south as I could before needing a Carnet. This means the Turkey/Syria border, after which I bimble around Turkey before returning home on a route yet to be decided.

Let me say right now that Greece is really cool. From the moment we left the ferry in Patra, we've felt good about the place, and the ride down to here from Patra was really excellent, with the Adriatic on our Right side and the twisty roads to steer. We found a great hotel here in Itea, and at around €24 each, it's great value. Tomorrow we'll be heading towards Istanbul, but it's doubtful we'll be there before Thursday. I have some good pics and video, but I can't load 'em 'til tomorrow or so (late night drinking and cheap wine are to blame!), so I'll resume later on,
JackoUK

 

[David Nimrod]

Sounds fantastic... Enjoy

 

[JackoUK]

This is a picture taken from the deck of the ferry as it came into Patras Greece after the 23 hours crossing from Ancona in Italy. It was a wonderful start to our travels in Greece, and the difference in the two countries, Italy and Greece was quite impressive. We'd only been on the road in Patras for about 15 minutes, and the satnav was giving confusing signals (!) when a lady, clearing recognising our confusion, just pulled over and told us, in perfect English, the right way to the motorway. Amazing really.

Made our way East then North for around 80-100 miles then found a place to stay in Itea on the Adriatic coast. Beautiful beach resort, off season meant really cheap (€25 each for b&b) room and the food along the beach was divine. Rather too nice was the wine, and we drank too much, but it was excellent. We stayed in the hotel Kalafatis, which you can see below

and got on the road a bit late today, due of course to the wine effect!
As we got North of Itea, the road started climbing into the mountains, and the twisties started. With heavily laden bikes and TKC 80'S, the bike was a little less predictable, but still really good. We made good progress North and we're currently just south of Thessaloniki. We're planning on making it to Istanbul for Friday, where we'll have a day or so off for some sight seeing. Then it'll be south across Turkey towards the Syria border. We'll see how that goes, as we're getting mixed news about the ease/difficulties of getting across that border. It won't concern me, 'cos that's when I'll be making the journey back North again to explore a bit more of Turkey.

This Greece place is so cool for riding in, and the people are friendly beyond belief. A great place!

More to come later.

JackoUK

 

[Surrey Yeoman]

Hi Jacko,

Bummer about having to scrap the Africa trip mate! Nice to see that you've taken it on the chin and are having a blast elsewhere. Must meet up again for a beer(s) when you get back.

Greece looks good to me too for a trip next year when I start pulling my pension!

Cheers,

Dave

 

[JackoUK]

Phoenix Tour - Onward to Istanbul and Beyond

Made our way into Turkey from Greece, the only hiccup being one of our number didn't get a Green Card and was refused entry until he got one from the office at the border. It was easy for him actually, although it caused him a sweat for a minute, all his dreams of an African oddysey disappearing before him!!

After the Euro countries, Turkey seems really cheap and more affordable. We had a nice easy ride along the E84 I think, 'til we got to Tekirdag, right on the coast, and then got a hotel for the night, right down by the sea. Had a nice stroll the next morning and checked out the fish market to see what I'd eaten the night before!!

Off again towards the mayhem of Istanbul, which got pretty crazy traffic wise, as we approached. I usually pull off the road when approaching big cities so I can get my bearings and work out the route around the place. I swung into a BP garage and got chatting to the owner, who had pretty good English. He got us some coffees, gave us a super route to the tourist area around SultanAhmet and even offered me a place to stay if I made my return trip via Istanbul. What a guy. We took his advice and went to the Blue Mosque area via Florya and the sea side road, which was superb. Got checked into a great little hotel, richly appointed, and had a good time of beer and wine for the night. Plan was to spend a couple days here enjoying the area and the sights. Lots of tourists here, but no complaints 'cos that's what we are!!

Got plenty of pics right now, but having a glitch with loading 'em, so I'll post some later. Bike is going great (1150 GSA), and all is well so far. Got to get out and drink beer and eat right now, so I'll post the stuff about leaving Istanbul (in the hissing rain and pretty cold!!) tomorrow, along with some pictures. Turkey is a gem, with great riding and brilliant cheap food and hotels. The trip only gets better. Plenty more to do too.

JackoUK

 

[Bounce]

Hey Jacko, sorry to hear of the non trip to Africa, but it sounds as though your new adventure is turning out to be a belter. Just a couple of pics & a few words so far has given me a bit of a taste for a longer trip....

Take care mate, have fun & most of all....enjoy.....

 

[JackoUK]

Phoenix Tour-the Wonder of Cappaddocia

We left Istanbul on a bit of a low, due to the crappiest of weather changes. We've had the greatest weather, all sun and blue skies, and if anything a little on the hot side, around the upper 20's. It all changed the day we were to begin the long ride South. The morning started drizzly and chilly and I made the bummer of a decision to leave the liners out of the Rallye 3 suit. This was a bad one to make!! As we crossed the Bosphorus in Istanbul, the rain was bucketing down, and the traffic, combined with the treacherous road conditions made for some high levels of concentration. Basically taking the E89 towards Ankara, we made good progress but it was pretty draining riding, due to the high winds and pouring rain. It didn't take too long before I was wet through, how good is this Rallye 3 supposed to be? I feel that the £900 was a bit poorly spent, 'cos I get wet in places it shouldn't be happening.

Enough of the moaning. Although it was the toughest riding we'd had, we ploughed on and made good progress, passing Ankara and heading in the direction of Goreme, in the region of Cappoddocia. We knew we wouldn't make it on the first day, so a stop over was required. We sort of screwed up though 'cos we'd not eaten properly all day, and when the hunger induced cold/fatigue gets you, you should do something. Stopping at a real Turkish truckers cafe, we experienced the revelation of walking into a cafe with a wood kind of barbeque right in the middle of the place, cooking kebabs and bread on order. We got into that stuff and enjoyed a great meal and cay or Turkish tea, all for a couple of quid. What a taste of real Turkey.
Riding off into the deepening gloom, we found ourselves in the situation I try to avoid, that of night driving in a foreign country, where standards are not what you want them to be. Sure enough, really high lateral winds and overtaking cars and trucks made for a bit of an un-settling last session, and as I was lead rider, I kept the speed down to around 65 or so. Finally we pulled into a small town called Sereflikoshar where we found a small hotel. We stopped the bikes outside a little cafe opposite and the guy in the doorway gave a welcoming smile. A little non-verbal communication led to him yelling "Baba, Baba" loudly and a little guy rushed out, his father, and began chatting to us in English. Of course, the hotel manager was his best friend, he sold the best food and had the greatest Raki too. We saw through the little facade, but went along with it a)'cos it was a laugh b) 'cos we were tired and pleased to end the riding and c) 'cos the thought of a Raki was heaven to Marc and I !

After the splendour (and high prices ) of Istanbul, this little place was really basic, and as Marc hung his bike jacket in the wardrobe it virtually dimantled itself, leaving us in a heap of laughter. Quickly changing, it was off to Baba's gaff for the beer and Raki, which I suspect he popped out and got from the local store, but never mind, it was a good little effort. As we suspected, their was a huge plate of food, and after the truck stop I wasn't in the mood for more grub, but a man's gotta do what a man's gotta.....and all that stuff. Actually, it was all a good laugh, especially when the mother of all row's exploded from the kitchen, between father and son. What a cluster f--k!!

We were up and away next morning, after a breakfast of an indeterminate soup at Baba's again, and we had another wet ride to Gorome, which is a little town just off the main road, near to NevsehirDropping down on the newly surfaced and wet road was a bottle tester, as was the near vertical drive into the little pension that has been our home for the last couple days. And what a place. I'd been riding across this vast landscape wondering what on earth could be so special about this Cappadoccia region, when all around it was hill or plains. Well, as we dropped down the hill into the town, the weird landscape was astonishing, with these strange towers formed by volcanic action thousands of years ago. People of former time had burrowed into these rock formations and created houses, animal stables and churches. What a place!

Just through the border-cool​

Just to finish, I just found the instructions to up load pictures on to here so I included a couple now. The first one is pretty obvious and needs no explanation, the second is a sad story. After Baba had fed us and plied us with Raki, he said that, as the oldest and most capable of the three of us, I should honour him by caring for his youngest daughter for the night. As you can see, it would've tempted a saint, but I'm sorry to say that the riding had worn me out and the thought of a hard ride in the morning made me refuse, a tough decision, but a fine show of strength of character too!! Eat yer heart's out, tossers.
JackoUK

 

[Mide]

Looks fab

I'm hoping to do something similar next year so I can meet Kev on his way back from Siberia

I'll be looking for travelling companions

 

[JackoUK]

Phoenix Tour - To be completed

Just in case any of you tossers out there think I¨ve been hi-jacked by the Alabanian mafia, I¨ve made my way to Dubrovnik in Croatia and I¨m having a day off here because I am knackered. I´m in an Internet cafe in the town, as I have no connection in my room, none for a couple of days actually.

Keeping up with this thread daily (or so) was proving a bit of task, so I decided to suspend it and complete it when I get back to the UK in around 5 or 6 days.

All I can say is, what a blast it has been, and the bike has been great. Loads of pictures and video, to bore people with.

All the best to everyone that is the slightest interested.

Dave (JackoUK)

 

[Bounce]

We left Istanbul on a bit of a low, due to the crappiest of weather changes. We've had the greatest weather, all sun and blue skies, and if anything a little on the hot side, around the upper 20's. It all changed the day we were to begin the long ride South. The morning started drizzly and chilly and I made the bummer of a decision to leave the liners out of the Rallye 3 suit. This was a bad one to make!! As we crossed the Bosphorus in Istanbul, the rain was bucketing down, and the traffic, combined with the treacherous road conditions made for some high levels of concentration. Basically taking the E89 towards Ankara, we made good progress but it was pretty draining riding, due to the high winds and pouring rain. It didn't take too long before I was wet through, how good is this Rallye 3 supposed to be? I feel that the £900 was a bit poorly spent, 'cos I get wet in places it shouldn't be happening.

Enough of the moaning. Although it was the toughest riding we'd had, we ploughed on and made good progress, passing Ankara and heading in the direction of Goreme, in the region of Cappoddocia. We knew we wouldn't make it on the first day, so a stop over was required. We sort of screwed up though 'cos we'd not eaten properly all day, and when the hunger induced cold/fatigue gets you, you should do something. Stopping at a real Turkish truckers cafe, we experienced the revelation of walking into a cafe with a wood kind of barbeque right in the middle of the place, cooking kebabs and bread on order. We got into that stuff and enjoyed a great meal and cay or Turkish tea, all for a couple of quid. What a taste of real Turkey.
Riding off into the deepening gloom, we found ourselves in the situation I try to avoid, that of night driving in a foreign country, where standards are not what you want them to be. Sure enough, really high lateral winds and overtaking cars and trucks made for a bit of an un-settling last session, and as I was lead rider, I kept the speed down to around 65 or so. Finally we pulled into a small town called Sereflikoshar where we found a small hotel. We stopped the bikes outside a little cafe opposite and the guy in the doorway gave a welcoming smile. A little non-verbal communication led to him yelling "Baba, Baba" loudly and a little guy rushed out, his father, and began chatting to us in English. Of course, the hotel manager was his best friend, he sold the best food and had the greatest Raki too. We saw through the little facade, but went along with it a)'cos it was a laugh b) 'cos we were tired and pleased to end the riding and c) 'cos the thought of a Raki was heaven to Marc and I !

After the splendour (and high prices ) of Istanbul, this little place was really basic, and as Marc hung his bike jacket in the wardrobe it virtually dimantled itself, leaving us in a heap of laughter. Quickly changing, it was off to Baba's gaff for the beer and Raki, which I suspect he popped out and got from the local store, but never mind, it was a good little effort. As we suspected, their was a huge plate of food, and after the truck stop I wasn't in the mood for more grub, but a man's gotta do what a man's gotta.....and all that stuff. Actually, it was all a good laugh, especially when the mother of all row's exploded from the kitchen, between father and son. What a cluster f--k!!

We were up and away next morning, after a breakfast of an indeterminate soup at Baba's again, and we had another wet ride to Gorome, which is a little town just off the main road, near to NevsehirDropping down on the newly surfaced and wet road was a bottle tester, as was the near vertical drive into the little pension that has been our home for the last couple days. And what a place. I'd been riding across this vast landscape wondering what on earth could be so special about this Cappadoccia region, when all around it was hill or plains. Well, as we dropped down the hill into the town, the weird landscape was astonishing, with these strange towers formed by volcanic action thousands of years ago. People of former time had burrowed into these rock formations and created houses, animal stables and churches. What a place!

Just through the border-cool​

Just to finish, I just found the instructions to up load pictures on to here so I included a couple now. The first one is pretty obvious and needs no explanation, the second is a sad story. After Baba had fed us and plied us with Raki, he said that, as the oldest and most capable of the three of us, I should honour him by caring for his youngest daughter for the night. As you can see, it would've tempted a saint, but I'm sorry to say that the riding had worn me out and the thought of a hard ride in the morning made me refuse, a tough decision, but a fine show of strength of character too!! Eat yer heart's out, tossers.
JackoUK

I hope you could've mustered the energy chap....

Enjoying your ride report mate...be safe & enjoy....

 

[marky.d]

glad to hear you haven't been kidnapped, was getting worried about the old fella, ride safe

 

[JackoUK]

Phoenix Tour- It goes on

Look, thanks for all the replies (well Keith Bouncer, Marky D and Mide), but I was gonna hold off on the ride report 'til I got back to the UK and then do a reasonable (!) job of it. Anyway, something came up, as the actress said to the Archbishop!!
Friday I left Dubrovnik and as I got onto the main highway out of the town, you all know it don't you?, I see a couple of GS12's going in my direction. Allow for the fact I was going in the wrong direction, it took a while to meet up with them later, in a petrol station. Having a chat, it seems they were intending to do a similar Turkey trip to me, but the Greek border guys ruined that for 'em and they had to return via the Balkans.
Later I found myself meandering through some Croatian country roads in the un-finished part of the main A1 highway towards Split. I was "up on the pegs" to go over some speed humps, when an R80, in fine and ratty condition, roared past me with a wave. Where the f--k did he come from ? A look in the mirror showed another 5 of these serious mothers behind me and, with number one in front, anyone who knows the Jacko will understand, he had to be checked out, know what I mean!!

I saw him give a mirror check and his pace quickened, so i went with him, the old 1150 Elephant ready for his crap. We had a good little tussle for around 5 minutes or so when, up comes the left hander for everyone to be aware of. I saw it tuck tighter still, and he saw it but a little late. He locked up the back, got ALL out of shape and BANG into the Armco he went. I was able to avoid all this and stopped just passed him. What a man! This dude just pulled the bike out of the Armco, shrugged it all off and we all parked up in this little Croatian village to shoot the shit about life and the wonders of the GS motor cycle. They were a hard core team for sure, I joined them for about 30 miles then waved them good bye at Split so I could fuel up. As they passed by, all waves and toots, it was a sight to see, all those old GS's ratty as hell, but used to f--k, the way they should be.
More to come. BTW, now in a little village out side Trieste. The journey goes on. Loving it.
Jacko

The Sean Connery look alike on the extreme right is the Kamikaze pilot, and what a no bull shit, hard as nails type he was. Pleasure to meet these guys, they'd been bound for Turkey, but, surprise surprise, the Greek border guys screwed them too. Made me realise how lucky I was to get through to Macedonia a few days before.
See you all soon,
Jacko

 

[woodsie]

Nice to know you're OK............

but I was gonna hold off on the ride report 'til I got back to the UK Jacko

If you spoon food it to us now, it will whet our appetites for when you're back. Mind how you go

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

Nice one Jacko. I missed this earlier.

Have you lost weight?

 

[JackoUK]

Phoenix tour- The end is nigh!!

Hey Paul, Woodsie and the others that have responded to this little rambling load of nonsense, great to have your interest. Reason I've not been posting regularly is that it's sometimes difficult to get good access (how spoiled we've become, getting pissed off 'cos the wi-fi's not up to much!!), and secondly, when I'm done with a day of riding (I've kind of averaged around 250 a day on non-highway roads if poss.) then the creative juices are so dried up that only several beers/glasses of wine make them flow again, and by then all I can write is in that favourite second language of rugby players, namely Alcoholese, and worth nothing at all.
I'm currently in a hotel in Gravelines, just a stone's throw from Calais. I wanted to make an early crossing of La Manche, and probably also 'cos I didn't really want it to all be over. Really mean this !! This has been the longest of my many bike travels (Well over 6,000 miles to date ), and not one thing has gone wrong, not one. The bike, I euphemistically and affectionately call it "The Elephant", has been superb in every way. Why am I surprised, it's a GSA1150, know what I mean Brian. I've got hours of video, dozens and dozens of pictures, all testimony to how much fun I've had AND HOW EASY THIS ALL IS.
Apart from settling back into an 'ordinary life' after this free-wheeling style of living and getting my fire damaged house sorted out, the hardest decision to make is, WHERE NEXT. I am committed to the Pan-American highway and, should I get it all together for next year, then that is my target. If it becomes un-realistic, then I'll be on the West coastroute of Africa. Might have to look at a lighter bike for this one though. Elephant is a bitch to pick up!!
Enough of this rambling. I'll put together a proper ride report when I'm back and settled. I've kept a daily diary, so not much of it will be lies !!

JackoUK