Picos, Pyrenees, Mediterranean + Millau

[Deleted account Cooperman]

First of all thanks to all the contributors on this site for providing the recommendations and inspiration which made this trip so enjoyable

The plan was to do a European loop, not including the Alps for once, and allowing the ferry to take some of the strain.

We sailed on the Cap Finistere, a 24 hour trip, which was very good albeit we had a calm crossing.

Getting on board (and back out) was via two steep ramps but no worries. Plenty of parking space and the deckhands sorted out the straps OK.

We docked in Bilbao late afternoon which gave us time to get through into the Pico’s (120 miles). This wasn’t a problem as Spain seems to dine late, the hotel restaurant was open until 22.30.

We stayed at the Hotel del Oso (the Bear) in Cosgaya which was a really excellent recommendation - the best hotel on our trip

Local trips out included:

Potes

Funte De cable car

The dogs around here are ‘hard as nails’

However at the hotel there are two very fiendly St Bernards, mother and her pup.

Whilst the roads are excellent there are plenty of speed restrictions which are well enforced. We saw the police in a number of locations and witnessed them pulling an English car

Next leg over into the Pyrenees, destination Ainsa.

 

[2 wheel humvee]

Some familiar sights there (great pics)
Looks like you had a good trip (so far) come on then-let's have the rest

 

[Riders Rest]

Looking good

 

[itspilsbury]

Hi Cooperman,
We are travelling on this ferry in Sept, I notice something blue in colour under the straps securing the bikes to protect the seat etc, what is it and is it something the ferry co has provided?
We are travelling out to Santander and back from Bilbao, so different boats each time, how did you find the boats?
Ian

 

[stever1]

Hi Cooperman,
We are travelling on this ferry in Sept, I notice something blue in colour under the straps securing the bikes to protect the seat etc, what is it and is it something the ferry co has provided?
We are travelling out to Santander and back from Bilbao, so different boats each time, how did you find the boats?
Ian

Having used both the cap finisterre, and the pont aven IMHO the P.A is much better. If you can afford it, upgrade to a better cabin. Its well worth it as its a 24hr crossing.

 

[Bounce]

Looks good so far, and enjoying the pics very much....

 

[Bounce]

Hi Cooperman,
We are travelling on this ferry in Sept, I notice something blue in colour under the straps securing the bikes to protect the seat etc, what is it and is it something the ferry co has provided?
We are travelling out to Santander and back from Bilbao, so different boats each time, how did you find the boats?
Ian

The blue thing is simply a pad that goes on the seat, so the ratchet straps can be tightened fully, thus securing the bike properly - last time I was on this crossing, the ferry company provided 1 per bike.

 

[Mutley]

Looks good so far, and enjoying the pics very much....

You thinking what I'm thinking?

 

[Bounce]

You thinking what I'm thinking?

Ah oui.....

including the 24 hour party boat....woop woop....

 

[Deleted account Cooperman]

On to the Pyrenees

I had to question if my use of the hotel washing facilities had been in vain

Tomorrow’s forecast did not look good

We were woken at 0500 by a massive electrical storm which did not let up before we started - 360 miles ahead of us today.

I seriously thought about abandoning the scenic plan and head for the motorways on the coast but - hey - it’s an adventure

In varying intensities of rain we left Potes and headed up and over a 1,300m range of hills full of slow hairpins and a lot of construction work underway ie passing over unsurfaced roads. We kept smiling through misted visors

We passed through Cervera and past a lake into Aquilar del Campoo (fortunately no smell...). Then heading towards Burgos we detoured across country towards Poza de la Sal. We had this road to ourselves, Yorkshire Dales like scenery but full of wind turbines - nice riding. Oh and the rain stopped.

Looked like a few vultures could be around.

Coming down to the lowlands we headed east including a variety of roads with a small bit of toll €1.50 towards Pamplona. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to check out the festival

The service areas were very basic. This stop gives an opportunity to show our ‘rig’.

This years best acquisition was the pannier top bag (bought from this Parish) which really took the pressure off packing. It proved to be completely waterproof and also served us well as a carry-bag off the bike

We then moved to a brilliant stretch of fast road alongside Lake Yesa.

(photo pinched off the web )

A new major road is currently under construction with some interesting new bridges and tunnels.

We had started with a damp 15 degrees. This had now transformed into a tiring hot 35 degrees

The final part of the journey would otherwise have been good riding but another long stretch on slow hairpins left us aching to get to Ainsa.

Ainsa is split into upper and lower parts.

The upper is very traditional whereas the lower looks as though it has been forgotten about - which is a real shame

Fortunately we were staying in the 'upper' at Los Siete Reyes hotel.

We had more of a suite than a room and although we had no restaurant or bar there was plenty of choice near by.

Some traditional cooking.

The intention was to walk to the lake, but with no pavements this was abandoned as far too risky.

And so....relax

 

[Deleted account Cooperman]

Hi Cooperman,
We are travelling on this ferry in Sept, I notice something blue in colour under the straps securing the bikes to protect the seat etc, what is it and is it something the ferry co has provided?
We are travelling out to Santander and back from Bilbao, so different boats each time, how did you find the boats?
Ian

The bike strapping is all done by the deckhands. There was plenty of space between bikes. You are guided into position. I left it on the side stand, in gear and steering lock on. The blue padded protection is again provided.

The boat was fine. We had a window cabin which was only useful when we were getting changed to get back on the bike we could see the coastline approaching.

Used the 'poolside' bar for food on the top deck. Chargeable WiFi is available.

Have a good trip

 

[Steve V]

excellent pics and report, all very familiar

 

[Deleted account Cooperman]

First one to see the sea

Today we had roads like these to enjoy.

Ainsa to Begur - 250 miles.

We headed off into the hills towards Campo and again got caught with construction work and unpaved roads - a lot more fun in the dry.

Really good mountain twisties brought us to Pont de Suert where we were 'pulled by the fuzz' Not speeding, just a document check. Driving license and registration document produced we were back on our way.

We stopped for lunch at a watersports heaven at Sort. Teaming with kayaks and canoes, with the river crossed with a spagettiti of ropes supporting the course gates, it's a real centre for the sport. Landrover Defenders everywhere

Up and out of Sort, bagging Colls along the way, and eventually through a 5km €10 tunnel at Riu de Cerdanya.

One last detour on the B 402 and the chance for a last Coll.

We then rolled off the hills and onto the Costa Brava. Destination Aigua Blava House in the wooded (don't forget your mossie spray like we did ) hills a few km's outside Begur.

The idea was we had the centre of Begur on hand for the evening and then a good choice of quiet beach coves to chill through the day.

This isn't how it turned out. 'Nobody walks in Begur' we were informed. Bugger - the last thing I wanted was to be riding around - this was chill time = beer/wine in generous quantities. A quick reccie with a few maps we worked out we were at worst 5km away from the coast, albeit with a few hills to contend with. One 45 min walk later through a few woods and we were on the beach at Tamariu, the next cove down on the map above.

What a spot

The days routine became walk down/beach/swim/beach/bar/swim/bar to watch Tour de France/swim/eat/swim/beach/snooze/wake up

Tamariu was fantastic, authentic, original and quality at very reasonable prices. So good I would seriously consider an early/late summer long weekend flying to Barcelona and using one of the small hotels.

 

[itspilsbury]

The bike strapping is all done by the deckhands. There was plenty of space between bikes. You are guided into position. I left it on the side stand, in gear and steering lock on. The blue padded protection is again provided.

The boat was fine. We had a window cabin which was only useful when we were getting changed to get back on the bike we could see the coastline approaching.

Used the 'poolside' bar for food on the top deck. Chargeable WiFi is available.

Have a good trip

Thanks Cooperman.

 

[Deleted account Cooperman]

Border crossing, Tour de France, Millau bridge and Gorges du Tarns

Today it was time to start the route north back towards home.

We had arranged to meet some friends at their house just over the border in France. This meant we crossed the border on the RN9 at Le Perthus

The border passes through the main street so France one side - Spain the other. As tobacco and booze is cheaper in Spain it is just a mass crowd of French looking for Spanish bargains.

That's not the only thing on sale

It's also a major truck-stop - consequently sights like this are everywhere

Police all over the border town but they show no interest with these 'patio-chair' girls.

We had a late breakfast at our friends house in Le Boulou, bloody massive, if not a bit remote.

Saying or goodbyes we hit the autoroute past Perpignan - very windy!

We came off at Narbonne and headed for some scenery on the D907 en-route to Millau. Next the traffic came to a halt! I knew we were due to cross the Tour de France as it came out of the Pyrenees but had not planned anything. I rode down the wrong side of the road and got right to the back of the crowd lining the route

Parked up and got the camera out.

Within 10 mins the outriders started coming through. A couple of GSA's.

First the breakaway group appeared.

Then the main peleton with Andy Shleck visible through the group.

Another 5 minutes of support cars and it was all over. What luck

We also got way off the front of the traffic queue. Bonus

We calmed down over a scenic flowing route up the D907 and D32 up to the Millau bridge. Well worth the visit.

We had not planned the next bit, only had the recommendation of the Hotel de la Cascade. So discovering the Gorges du Tarns was a fantastic way to finish the day.

Apologies for the number of photos but it's an un-describable place and one I will be heading back to - probably with a tent.

Went to sleep with a wide grin that night

 

[GrinningGSer]

Thank you Cooperman
Just drinking a bottle of red eating Boursin i
on Ryvita with the femme and enjoying your report and wishing that we were there

 

[Deleted account Cooperman]

La Souterrraine, Cherbourg

Ok - time to finish this report.

We came up and out of the Gorge and headed off across country looking for Green routes. 250 miles later via Aurillac/Eymoutiers we got to our stop at La Souterraine. Night stop was Maison Numero Neuf a very good B+B run by an English family.

It's also on the Pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela - the way of St James.

One of the guests was a Dutch guy actually walking the route - 1300 miles

After one of the best meals of the trip and a nice couple of bottles of rouge it was time to turn in.

Waking up we were treated to some pretty crap weather. We had always planned just to blast the last 350 miles on autoroute. Visibility was shite for the first hour. I even turned the heated grips on

We arrived in Cherbourg late afternoon at stayed on the harbour front at Hotel Ambassadeur. Average hotel with an average view - but at least I could keep an eye on the bike.

I also employed some local security

Found a nice little sea-food eatery on the front and got served with the biggest bucket of muscles ever. Must have taken a good 30 mins to get through it all

We were booked on the noon crossing of the Condor Vitessse. Great crossing of just over 2 hours meant we were back in Poole for 1pm UK time.

What a great ride It really did seem a lifetime since we boarded the ferry to Bilbao.

You made have seen Dunny the dog in a few pics. This is a mascot for the St Dunstan's military charity - story here.

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251425

Also I kept a blog going. If you've nothing else to do have a look.

http://cooperman-broughttoourpryrenees.blogspot.com/?m=0

Thanks for reading

 

[Rasher]

Great report, will add this trip to my "to do" list

 

[Dave56]

Enjoyed that, cheers.............

 

[Bigdave]

Great report and pictures, thank you