play in rear wheel on rt 1200 2005, is bearing replacement complex?

mickskelly

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Hi, I have play in my rear wheel, I'd say the bearing are shot, but they are in the hub not on the wheel like the front wheel is. The best resource I've found to help is the following:
But there seems to be some expensive looking tools in use here beyond my means like hydraulic presses, expensive looking bearing puller tools etc.

Wondering if there's any guide to do this. Someone must have done the rear bearings already. Also if it would be a better idea to try to buy a used replacement rear hub from an old bike and just swap that instead?

thx
 
Hi, I have play in my rear wheel, I'd say the bearing are shot, but they are in the hub not on the wheel like the front wheel is. The best resource I've found to help is the following:
But there seems to be some expensive looking tools in use here beyond my means like hydraulic presses, expensive looking bearing puller tools etc.

Wondering if there's any guide to do this. Someone must have done the rear bearings already. Also if it would be a better idea to try to buy a used replacement rear hub from an old bike and just swap that instead?

thx
I had my rear hub bearing done by Motoscot (rural Wales) who is a site supporter.
 
Is PatZX12 still on the forum?

He’s an Irish fella from Galway with his own engineering firm, he made me a specialist tool for my final drive a few years ago.

Perhaps he could help if he’s still around ?

Edit: He’s not been active for a while according to the members list.

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Thx, I took a short clip of it yesterday evening, the wheel rotates but feels like some play when I tug on the wheel side to side, also a squeaky/whiny noise on slowly rotating if you listen closely.

When I was on the bike yesterday, It felt like the rear brake was draggy but only at certain times, that's when I looked more closely at the rear wheel and noticed it.
 
Thx, snimio sam kratki isječak toga jučer navečer, kotač se okreće, ali osjećam kao da se svira kada povlačim kotač s jedne strane na drugu, također se čuje škripavi/cvileći zvuk pri polaganoj rotaciji ako pažljivo slušate.

Kad sam jučer bio na biciklu, činilo mi se da se stražnja kočnica vuče, ali samo u određenim trenucima, tada sam pažljivije pogledao stražnji kotač i to primijetio.
Greetings from Croatia! The bearing of the final drive has already been badly damaged, it is in the disintegration phase! You have waited too long, because now there is damage to other vital parts inside the drive housing. It's almost impossible to fix with a few common household tools. You can no longer drive at all. How many miles did you put on that engine, how was the maintenance?
 
Greetings from Croatia! The bearing of the final drive has already been badly damaged, it is in the disintegration phase! You have waited too long, because now there is damage to other vital parts inside the drive housing. It's almost impossible to fix with a few common household tools. You can no longer drive at all. How many miles did you put on that engine, how was the maintenance?


Cheers. The bike has 120k km on it.

I was able to buy a replace rear hub of a used bike with about half the mileage of mine. I found this on ebay. It feels better and tighter and rotates smoother. Which was good to see as it meant I wasn't being crazy. I fitted it yesterday and it seem to be perfect (other than possibly a minor leak from the wheel speed sensor, which was due to the small torex bolt rounding off during assembly. I'll have to extract that bolt and replace it this week) The newer unit I replaced it with has some cosmetic issues with paint that peeled off and so looks a little rough, but I've no issues with that.

Here's a couple of photos. The driveshaft and hub was the old one being replaced. I had lubed the splines a few months ago, but didn't pick up on the bearing issues at that time.


Untitled-3.jpgUntitled-2.jpg
(newer hub on the bottom before I switched them)

Re: maintainance. I bought the bike 3 years ago on 100k km and have taken it to 120k.

I can't know the history before me. But the dash is listed in MPH which means it was a UK import into Ireland. UK roads are salted in winter whereas Irish roads are not. So UK bikes often have a little more corrosion. I see some corrosion and paint issues on some of the metal parts on my bike.

I've had minor battery drainage issues when the bike is left idle. I put in an odyssey battery, which probably helps, but still the battery drains if left idle for about 10 days or more. I manage this issue by either plugging it in to a trickle charger or keeping a jump starter handy. Or just taking it for a spin more often than every ten days! I won't bother fixing what I think may be a battery drain as I manage it just fine now.

I've been doing oil and oil filter about each year or slightly longer. I notice some slight oil consumption and get a warning on the dash roughly every 2k and just topup when necessary.

I put a set of tyres on it when the bike was at 106km's (2 years ago) and these tyres are still looking and feeling very good (Michelin Road 6 GT).

I noticed a slight missfire off idle a handful of times and replaced the 4 spark plugs recently. The old plugs had a good bit of wear on them and needed replacement and it runs better off idle now. The rubber handgrips were worn after nearly 20 years and 120km of use, so I just replaced them. I just did the rear brake pads while I was replacing the hub yesterday too.

Both bulbs on the front needed to be replaced in the first month or two of ownership.

I've never done or even seen the air filter on it. It may be close to time to inspect that?

The slow failure of the bearing in the rear hub is acceptable after 120km. This has been an excellent bike and has been very reliable for me. I would like to upgrade to a watercooled RT with lower mileage in the next couple of years. I tested the new gs1300. It's a great bike, but on getting back on my 20 year old RT I definitely didn't think the new gs1300 was worth the 10x increase in cost! Not that I'd have 30k+ lying around!

I've had a good few bikes over the years. Among them, Honda's vfr400, vfr800 fi, pan st1100 x2 (I like the V4's), BMW 1150GSA, k1200gt x2, k75 (old). The RT fits in very well with that company and is among my favourite. I took my 1150GSA all around Europe and crossed through your country of Croatia 15 years ago. I'm looking forward to going back there on an RT in the future. A stunning motorbike country, as are your neighbouring countries of Montenegro, Albania, and Slovenia to the north!
 
Corrosion on the outside of the cardan shaft tube proves that water and salt entered the housing, that's why the Americans are so zealous in sealing and lubricating those rubber boots with grease.

Spark plugs, I put 4 iridium plugs, they last almost forever. The air filter is not expensive, I was surprised how much dust collected on it, and I drive 99.9% on asphalt. Of the motor oils, Boxer 4T 15W-50 synthetic oil, a kind of blue-green color, proved to be the best. The engine purrs like a cat, does not consume oil even in the hottest conditions and on long highway drives at high speed
 
And as for Croatia, driving along the coast and foreign tourists on motorcycles, the world has polarized into only two poles. One gender is all those who drive GS. The vast majority of tourists come and drive GS, all other engines today are more of an exception (almost a mistake, including RT). :rolleyes::DD

Motorcyclists from the north of Europe should be added to that. They make great efforts and choose only macadam, forest and similar side roads, outside of populated areas. This is a trend that has been going on for years. Mud, stones, dust, earth, that's their world. Falling while driving and lifting too. It is called TET Europe

 
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