Please, Miss, what's the best way to go?

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Lots of people ask for suggestions on routes and hotels down to the Pyrenees.

In this thread and the posts following I will try to suggest some that work reasonably well, running from Calais to Argeles Gazost, in the French Haute Pyrenees, south of Lourdes. With a bit of imagination they could all be adapted to suite anyone crossing via Caen, Cherbourg or St Malo or, of course, arriving from elsewhere else.

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Are all the routes perfect? No, of course not. That being said, they should work well enough to get you from Calais to Argeles and back, avoiding many motorways and bringing in some very good country roads. Should I do it again, the only really significant change I would make would be to miss out Mantes on the last leg home. It is full of traffic lights, all apparently on red. A bit of time with a half decent map would solve the problem. There are some slight routing glitches that I have not edited out but nothing that will ruin anyone's day.

The hotels are all Logis de France, all of a good enough standard and friendly. OK, you can find cheaper (and certainly more expensive) and the whole journey is littered with camp sites, for the ‘Night under the stars and canvas’ merchants. For once I also added up how much the nine days away cost, too. Room prices are for single occupation.

Is Argeles a good base? Probably yes, if you want to be in France, in a reasonably large town, with a good choice of cheapish touristy type restaurants. It has good access to all the ‘must does’ in the central Pyrenees and is OK for jumping off into Spain, too. We stayed for four nights riding many of the local colls, along with a ride-out further north and a drop into Spain. We had planned to stay for three nights but extended to four as we lost most of one day when the weather clamped down. It’s the only trouble with mountains; One minute it’s +30c with views for miles, the next it is down to 11c above 1000 meters and visibility of three meters or less.

As the routes are all held on one file, I will break up each into the separate days, ending up at the evening’s hotel, along with some notes etc. It will be a work in progress, so I will lock the thread up just until it’s all finished.

Richard

PS As a slight aside. I tried my British credit card in each of the fuel stations I visited that had automatic pumps. 100% success, except for one. That one would not work with my French card either, nor for Mr Gauloise who followed me.... so the card reader was fecked.
 
Day one - Calais to Voves

Day one

Calais to Voves


234 miles

I met up with some chums (who had come across on the ferry) at the Baie de Somme motorway services, hence the stop. It's not a bad place to meet up and has a reasonable motorway type restaurant. The route starts from the ferry, though I took the train, with a motorway leg simply to get it all started off.

The hotel is in a very small country town / village so you will probably have to eat in. It's friendly, clean and comfortable. It is unlikely the locals will nick your bike from the car park, so just secure it with a suitable lock The restaurant is OK, if a bit 'fussy' with its menu, as some hotels can be.

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Cost:

GBP 107 Return on Eurotunnel (booked very late, so I could have saved a lot of money with a bit of forward planning)
GBP 32 in Folkestone for fuel
GBP 1.75 a bit of breakfast from the garage

EUR 10 maps in France
EUR 11 fuel in France
EUR 9.50 lunch in France
EUR 4.70 payage
EUR 2.50 coffee stop in the afternoon
EUR 109 hotel, inc. evening meal, a couple of beers and breakfast
 

Attachments

Day two - Voves to St Viance

Day two

Voves to St Viance

269 miles

France is now starting to open up as you cross the ‘Grain belt’ and head south. There are some great twisty country roads towards the latter end, past Brive le G’ – I spent most of my time with my 1200 GSA in 5th and simply kept it spinning wherever possible above 5,000 RPM.

The hotel is comfortable, clean, friendly and is in the countryside, so eat in. It is half owned by a lady, Sara, from the Welsh valleys, so language is not (much) of a problem. Again, nobody is going to pinch your bike, so just lock it up.

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Cost:

Fuel EUR 30

Water / bananas EUR 1.25

Lunch EUR 6.50

Hotel EUR 118.50

The Garmin route is in the attached compressed folder.

Eguzon, Bourganeuf and Uzerche are all nice towns to stop in.
 

Attachments

Day three

St Viance to Argeles Gazost

220 miles


Day three brings you to Argeles and the Pyrenees. A short clip of motorway at the start, then D (country) and N (National) roads all the way.

The hotel is friendly. It is fine as a base, with a private car park around the back, so once again, just lock the beast up. The rooms are basic but clean. Other than for breakfast we ate out in the centre of town, which is about 10 minutes’ walk away.

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The town has all the local amenities you might need for a three or four day stay: Banks, post office, police, hotels, several garages, tourist office, doctor, dentist, bars, touristy-type restaurants and easy access to the ‘Must do’ jaunts out / cols and passes and the way into Spain.

The French tourist board produces a basic pamphlet on the four local ‘attractions’ – Grands Sites de Midi-Pyreness - which are:

Cauterets – Pont d’Espagne – Cirques de Lys

Gavarnie – Cirques de Gavarnie, de Troumouse et Estaube

(Cirques are walks)

Lourdes – For those in search of a miracle , I guess.

Pic du Midi – at 2, 877 meters is one of the highest accessible (cable car) spots in the region, topped with an observatory. Great views on a clear day, of course.

www.grandsites.midipyrenees.fr

Cost:

Fuel EUR 33.74

Dinner out EUR 30

Lunch EUR 11

Hotel EUR 277 (four nights’ bed and breakfast, so EUR 69.25 a night B&B)

Route in the attached zip folder.
 

Attachments

Day four

Argeles Gazost out and about to Pau


We had planned to go down into Spain for the day but the weather - which had been hot (over 30c) the day before - and was anyway fine and warm at the hotel - clamped down above 1000m with very low cloud, reducing visibility to less than three meters. It was so dense that I could not easily find the way out of the car park on the top of the Col d'Aubisque (1,709m).

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So, we gave up and rode down the other side, to emerge in the sunshine at Laruns. Then it was a simple scoot up to Pau for lunch.

If you go to Pau, follow the signs for the centre, the Mairie and the tourist office. They do not seem to mind if you park the bikes under the trees when eating in the restaurant.

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We returned via Lourdes (if you are not dead when you arrive, you will be by the time you get out) - along with the usual and compulsory farmyard U-turn, without which no tour is complete - in the rain.

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Dinner in Argeles in the evening.

Cost:

Post cards, bits and bobs etc. EUR 13
Lunch EUR 17.3
Fuel EUR 28.26
Dinner EUR 23.2
 

Attachments

Day five Argles east then north to Auch

Day five

Argles Gazost east then north to Auch

Minimum 163 miles to Auch.


Bright and hot in the mountains and to the north.

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Out along the Gorge de Luz, over the Col du Tourmalet, col d’Aspin to Arreau, to meet up with a friend who has a house north of Tarbes.

A quick blat up the main roads D929, then a motorway run to Tarbes, the N21 to Mielan and the D3 to Marciac, where he is lucky enough to live. There is not much commend the main roads, they are just a means to an end.

From Marciac we went out on excellent local D roads in a broad circle to Bassousses. The D946 is worth a detour as, roundabout the tiny hamlet of Maurar, there is (on a very clear day, if you are lucky) a fantastic view southwards to the distant Pyrenees.

Bassousses is worth a visit, too. It is a tiny previously fortified medieval village, with an excellent guard tower (Bastide) you can climb up. For EUR 4 it’s worth it just for the view.

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Then off to Auch (pronounced Osh, apparently)

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and then some very small back roads returning to Marciac for a BBQ. Back to the hotel via the main roads and Lourdes around midnight.

Cost:

EUR 4 for the tower
EUR 12 coffees etc.
EUR 5 map
Payage was free
 

Attachments

Day six

A long one, over the cols westward and south into Spain, lunching in Jaca.

Mileage: Depending on route chosen, probably 260 or thereabouts.


Bizarre weather. Indicated at 38.50c in Spain in the late afternoon. Two hours later, 12c, thick cloud and rain on the French side of the same mountains. It was as if the world changed as we rounded a bend, clear to very dull in half a mile with no warning.

Some great and really fast twisty roads coming back into France from Spain.

I had a variety of alternatives worked out, so it’s just as easy to put them all into one file. All will give anyone good roads and good riding.

Cost:

EUR 26.91 Fuel
EUR 28.30 Fuel
EUR 1 water
EUR 13.40 lunch
EUR 10.10 dinner
 

Attachments

Day seven

On the way home.

Argeles back to St Viance, via a different route to the way down.

276 miles


We stopped for lunch in Cahors, where it is easy to park on the big square. As we were late we simply grabbed some excellent stuffed rolls, doughnuts and cakes from the bakers.

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Cost:

EUR 25.50 fuel
EUR 14 lunch and coffee
EUR 2 Payage
Hotel EUR 112.50 (Bed, breakfast and evening meal)
 

Attachments

Day eight

Second leg of the way home

St Viance to Cloyes

249 miles

Once again, a little bit of motorway and fast country roads most of the way to Cloyes, an attractive enough place on the Loir.

A nice hotel, with good staff and an excellent menu – well worth the extra for the last night.

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Just lock the bikes up in the hotel courtyard, they will be fine.

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There is even a kebab shop across the road should anyone be pining for home.

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Costs:

EUR 20.75 fuel
EUR 19.78 fuel
EUR 10 Gaffer tape, WD40 and water
EUR 23 lunch
EUR 144 hotel (Bed, breakfast and evening meal)
 
Day nine

The last day and back to Calais

Open country and main roads, with a last leg of short motorway run to Calais and home

272 miles


Costs:

EUR 22 fuel
EUR 14 fuel
EUR 0.70 payage
EUR 15 lunch
 

Attachments

So there you have it.

2,300 miles round trip from central London, to the Pyrenees (with a hop into Spain) and back home all in nine days. Not too much motorway other than to skip bits out, some good roads, some great roads and some fantastic roads.

My thanks to my travelling companions (and the horse) for putting up with me but most of all to JT (who really did all the work).

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Roll on the Black Forest in a month.....

......and, before then, the Ardennes with a bunch of Tossers..... :beerjug:
 
That's good to here - I thought we might have been forgotten!

Any idea where we are going yet? :confused:

Nigel

Panic not.... Weeks away.... South of France, to the aged P's with daughter, before then. Routes all worked out.... no news from hotel, unless it's in the myriad of work based tat that seems to be clogging my inbox from my time away. More anon....
 


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