Possible gearbox fault

hops

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Gents,

I had what I thought was a sudden clutch failure t'other day (started slipping without warning really badly). I've stripped it all down to change the clutch but it looked okay and not as bad as I anticipated but I've changed it anyway along with the slave cylinder seal as it looked a little suspect but there was no obvious oil contamination.

On trying to the put the gearbox back I've had real problems lining up the splines from the gearbox with the friction plate grooves. With the gearbox in gear turning the rear drive sees the splines turn but with a bit of resistance introduced i.e. the clutch assembly or a set of mole grips the splines do not turn anymore making it very difficult to line up but also suggesting there may be another cause of my woes?

Anybody had similar symptoms?
 
Gents,

I had what I thought was a sudden clutch failure t'other day (started slipping without warning really badly). I've stripped it all down to change the clutch but it looked okay and not as bad as I anticipated but I've changed it anyway along with the slave cylinder seal as it looked a little suspect but there was no obvious oil contamination.

On trying to the put the gearbox back I've had real problems lining up the splines from the gearbox with the friction plate grooves. With the gearbox in gear turning the rear drive sees the splines turn but with a bit of resistance introduced i.e. the clutch assembly or a set of mole grips the splines do not turn anymore making it very difficult to line up but also suggesting there may be another cause of my woes?

Anybody had similar symptoms?

What are the splines like? Stripped input shaft splines are a well know weakness...

Mike :cool:
 
visually

the splines on the shaft from the gearbox look fine but I've not gone as far as stripping down the final drive yet, just wondered if my symptoms sounded familiar, cheers for the quick reply Mike.
 
Have you got, or made for yourself, some guide rods to align the box when refitting? I presume you have centred the plate correctly first. I made guide rods out of long bolts, cutting off the ends and rounding off the cut part.

In a previous life I personally fitted hundreds of car clutches. I soon discovered that there can be tiny burs on the splines of the plate. I always used a small triangular file to gently remove the burs on the edge of the plate leaving a smooth surface for the two splined parts to come together.

Check the centering again, check for burs especially if you have been trying to push the box back in place. Clean it all up, fit the box carefully using the guides and turn the flywheel slightly as you feel the shaft engaging. Hope it goes well.

John
 
Whenever I've replaced/removed my clutch plate I've centred it by sight and checked with a measure. I don't tighten pressure plate fully, allowing it to align itself (i.e slip into position) with the gearbox splines when mating up gearbox. I use home made positioning dowels as per previous posts. Finally torque up pressure plate bolts through hole where starter motor fits est voila!
Hope this helps.
 
Driveshaft it is then, anyone got one for an 1150ADV lying about looking for a good home?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1376674509.091428.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1376674531.137221.jpg
 
Personal question I know but....what is your shaft like? Is it 'keyed' with a double width spline? Or are all the splines the same? I've got a couple of spare unkeyed ones.
 
Sadly I've got a keyed bit on mine, like this.
y2u5u3eb.jpg
 
Yes, but you can use the non keyed short rear section of shaft with a keyed main shaft. ;)

Sorry Neil I'm a bit slow on the uptake as you know. Are you saying as long as I get both halves I could use a standard GS driveshaft?
 
Sorry Neil I'm a bit slow on the uptake as you know. Are you saying as long as I get both halves I could use a standard GS driveshaft?

I wasn't saying that. But you can use a standard GS drive shaft in an ADV.

What i was saying is if you can only get the main section of drive shaft you can use a keyed or non keyed main shaft with the splined short section.

But you can't use a splined main shaft with a non splined short section.
 
Is there no way of getting the drive shaft repaired? It's only the bonded rubber that needs replacing.

I know there is a company in America that does drive shaft repairs for these bikes, just curious to know if there is a company in the UK that could do the same.
 
okay

I wasn't saying that. But you can use a standard GS drive shaft in an ADV.

What i was saying is if you can only get the main section of drive shaft you can use a keyed or non keyed main shaft with the splined short section.

But you can't use a splined main shaft with a non splined short section.

I THINK that makes sense, so in essence if I get a splined long section from monkeyboy as offered above that will fit & work perfectly well?
 
No idea

Is there no way of getting the drive shaft repaired? It's only the bonded rubber that needs replacing.

I know there is a company in America that does drive shaft repairs for these bikes, just curious to know if there is a company in the UK that could do the same.

I would have thought if there was one 'the guru' would know!
 


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