sorry that you dont FEEL like listing anything,
As I said, you'd just come out with stuff like this:
D6 said:
easyriders posted some pics anyway, thankyou,(id still like to see a front engine plate after 10,000 thats more exposed ie a mudguard without a flap, hammerited)
tough blacks a good paint, i find that to be more resilliant than most paints.
and it doesnt seem to keep water under it, sticks better, but perhaps thats why hammerites been re formulated recently?
Where Easyrider's examples are not enough either - you now want examples that have been painted and have covered 10,000 miles without any additional protection. You will just keep moving the goalposts (without providing a scrap of similar proof yourself, apart from your word of course).
D6 said:
this place is a forum, its a great place for asking questions, and comparing experiences,products etc, so when some one posts 2 pics of a paint product,
why not ask how long its been on/how its been treated etc, ??????
I can't speak for others but I posted more than two photos and each was accompanied by how long ago the job was done. Now what exactly constitutes "normal use" will vary and I'm not really interested in trading distances covered and in what conditions.
D6 said:
oh, and NO ONE called you a liar, anywhere,
That's the implication of this:
D6 said:
it shows a bike that was painted a while ago, then barely used, not a good example really, is it?
Funny isn't it? You want me to detail the use of my old 1150 after I painted the parts and yet all we get from you is "I've done 10,000 miles on my coated Kawasaki
" We are expected to take that at face value and I do but somehow you think that everyone else is fibbing unless they prove otherwise.
Here, I'll spell it out again why I don't rate powder-coat for most applications:
Powder-coat is a heavier pigment than enamel paint which is in turn heavier than acrylic and water based paints.
Powder-coat bonds to the surface by an electrostatic means and then the thermoset polymer has to be baked to alter its properties. In effect, powder-coat works by sealing the item to be coated in an unbroken polymer and to be most effective, it needs to be completely sealed.
In the simplest analogy; it's like a vacuum pack. Damage to the coating can weaken it to a much greater extent than is apparent (just look at the wishbone on Easyrider's 1100RT as an example):
The reason why it has peeled and flaked off in great scabs is that the coating split and allowed moisture under it. The resulting oxidisation works away beneath the still intact areas of the coating and steadily lifts it away because it doesn't actually bond to the metal as much as it bonds to itself. That's why it's called powder-
coat not powder-paint. It has very different properties to paint.
It is more chip resistant than paints. A painted surface will chip whereas the powder-coat will fracture. The fractures are too small to see at first but they are enough for moisture to penetrate and begin the oxidisation process beneath the coating. You cannot do local repairs to powder-coat, the whole part needs re-coating.
Paint on the other hand is more likely to chip and reveal the damage quickly allowing repair before the corrosion gets too bad (unless the owner believes that riding is more important than repair. That's a matter of personal choice).
Powder-coat is most at risk of splitting on sharp edges but at least that's more likely to reveal itself than when it fractures in the middle of a larger flatter surface (like the timing chain cover of a Boxer engine).
Then there's the process itself. Few people have access to their own powder-coating facilities. That leaves you in the hands of others. Many are very good. They will remove all the old coating (whatever it may be), they will make certain that any corrosion has been removed, they may mask areas that need to be free of coating but few people can be certain and it's often quite a while before they find out one way or the other.
Now let's deal with one of powder-coating's greatest weakness for bikes: The need to remove the coating on bearing or mating surfaces.
As one of the properties of powder-coat is that the thermosetting process changes the dry powder to make it bond to itself in order to provide a complete coating this means that machining surfaces clear of the coating and even masking leaves an edge where it is compromised. It may take a year or so but at those edges it
will allow moisture beneath the coating. It
will begin to corrode under the coating. It's just a matter of time.
For all the above reasons, I prefer paint and now that I've set-out in more detail why I prefer paint, perhaps you'll add reasons why your preference is powder-coat and we can just leave people to make their own choices taking or leaving our opinions as they choose.
,
. My cylinder barrels and front engine plate would welcome a spruce up so i have been reading this thread with interest.
. So the Hammerite or other spray alternatives are of interest, for some locations on the bike.
