Powder coating front engine cover?

[blues n twos]

I am thinking of having this done in the spring as its quite bad now and not covered by any warranty as its 5 yrs old.

Is this easy to remove? Was thinking of getting it done black.

Cheers

Jon

 

[pomm001]

I not removed mine but you would have to remove front pulley which i belive holds the crank seal, Steptoe would know for sure.
Not sure i would powdercoat, not unless you know a really good one
as the problem is that when you re-assemble you could rupture the powder coating if it hasnt god a good 'key' under the bolt heads and it all starts again.
I would paint it with hammerite smooth silver, or black if thats your preference , be much cheaper

 

[blues n twos]

Your probably right there,

I'm not after a super shiney finish but would like to tidy it up some. Just looks very tatty at the moment.

Jon

 

[Deleted Member MS]

Just had all engine casings done on GS100. Was concerned like you beforehand, but its certainy gone back together ok. I was told by powder coating guy NOT to do exhausts of any kind done tho !!!

ring me on 01724 348486 if you need to

Martin

 

[blues n twos]

I'll bear that in mind Martin,

I've had a look on the cd rom manual and it does look a bit of a pain to remove. I will see how I get on with just removing the bolts and cleaning it up and painting it. I was going to replace the bolts with some stainless ones so hopefully that will stop it reacting and bubbling like it has done.

Jon

 

[Dick Dastardly]

how did ya get on with the clean and paint blues? (not as in blue paint )

 

[ianf]

Neil was telling me about this at the weekend. The Telelever needs to come off to get the front plate over the pulley.

 

[carbold]

I have everything ready to start replacing my front cover (damaged). You need a front cranckshaft seal and two new o-rings for the oil hose on the left. Then you need something like this to set the timing right if you remove the halls sensor plate as well (my case).

Didn't know you need to undo the telelever too...bugger more work

 

[Steptoe]

Neil was telling me about this at the weekend. The Telelever needs to come off to get the front plate over the pulley.

Doesn't need removing as such - take the front shock off, undo and remove the telelever rear securing pins/mounts, and pull all the front end forward ( no need to remove the front wheel etc). Then you can get the front cover over the alternator pulley shaft ( once you've removed all the other parts )

 

[blues n twos]

how did ya get on with the clean and paint blues? (not as in blue paint )

Well... funny you should mention this as I was talking about it again today.

Thats all I have done so far as weather has been so shite. I have been advised to "stove enamel" it as its harder wearing than powder coat. Is this true do you know

Thinking of doing the buisness on the paralever arm as its loosing the paint down the sides as well. could do both together and get it done properly.

Any thoughts welcome.

ps... handy tip Steptoe


Jon

 

[MikeP]

Thats all I have done so far as weather has been so shite. I have been advised to "stove enamel" it as its harder wearing than powder coat. Is this true do you know

Stove Enamelling used to be the preferred finish on classic car wire wheels, it's certainly hard wearing. I've never heard of it being done on aluminium surfaces but that doesn't mean it's not possible.

Mike O has had his exhaust downpipes done by these people http://www.camcoat.u-net.com
They look very nice too.

 

[Clive]

Mike O has had his exhaust downpipes done by these people http://www.camcoat.u-net.com
They look very nice too.

It started to come off...http://gsclubuk.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2640&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

 

[Steptoe]

It started to come off...http://gsclubuk.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2640&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

Well what a surprise, were you really really expecting it to stay attached.

 

[MikeP]

It started to come off...http://gsclubuk.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2640&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

Oh well, another idea consigned to the scrap-heap of other peoples experience!

 

[Dick Dastardly]

Might just mask off all other bits and spray the bloody thing.

Last week i did the forks and they look a treat....

 

[baldycop]

Recently took off my forks, telelever arm and lower yoke and stripped and painted with smoothrite rubbing them down between coats and finally applying a couple of coats of smoothrite spray.
Look a dam sight better I also need to do my front cover but it will entail taking off H&B engine bars as well
I have also recently had to touch up the bloody sub frame for peeling paint and replace rear footrest mounts.
The finish on these bikes is possibly the worst i have ever experienced in nearly 30 yrs of having bikes.
Or is it because its become more important keeping up with the 'Jones's'
So can recommend hammerite/smoothrite, powder coating is only any good if you go to someone used to dealing with bikes and can explain what you need doing, and of course you need to blank of bolt holes so that you can still get bolts through

 

[jimbo]

Recently took off my forks, telelever arm and lower yoke and stripped and painted with smoothrite rubbing them down between coats and finally applying a couple of coats of smoothrite spray.

 

[Bob1150GS]

After or before

Mine is also looking naff so a few week ends ago wire brush rub down and aluminium paint improved it no end. Two weeks later needed doing again so I got thinking and came up with this 10 min job that hides the offending and prevents it happening again.

Items required: One peice of alloy sheet 2 / 3 mm thick. Size 11" x 6" from memory (Can measure if anyone needs)

2 Cable ties or tool rail clips if you have BM Engine bars

1 M5 x 16mm bolt c/w nut and washer.

Hand or pistol drill to make 1 5.5 mm hole at bottom.

Bend ally sheet to sit vertical about 1" from the bottom when in contact with the sump guard. Hold in place clamp or gaffer tape.

Mark where you need to drill. Turn on to full lock and drill the center bottom and the secure with the M5 screw. Mark where you need to drill at the top depending on method used. Remove drill fix back together. Cost next ro nothing. Looks like a proper item.

 

[blues n twos]