Preping the Bike for Morocco

[Lilith]

Saturday
1. Strip the swinging arm off and replace the drive shaft.
2. Remove the gearbox and replace the leaking output seal and order new breather bolt, as the old one was blocked (we think that it was the cause of the seal failing either that or crap seals )
3. Buy some metal to play with on Sunday.

Sunday
1. Fit the HPN 43litre tank.
2. Cut the side panels of the failing to fit the tank.


3. Cut the bull-bar and extend bull-bar to fit round tank.


4. Mount below the crash bar (the mount is from the top crash bar mounting)

 

[Lilith]

Preping the Bike for Morocco (2)

4. BamBam cured my side-stand issues with the help of a sure-foot side stand (we had a couple just lying around one each)




Picture of the under-side view

 

[Lilith]

Preping the Bike for Morocco (3)

Some more pictures of the bracket on the bench.





5. Just have to paint everything now.




P.S BamBam has a side stand too.

 

[Kenny]

My word you did have a busy weekend!!!

I do hope people realise just how much work you have done there

Is my side-stand in the post ?

Looking good..proper GS'ing

 

[brassmonkey001]

You wouldn't happen to have another Surefoot just lying about?

 

[VAL. H.]

WOW! Thats productive, most people just swap the fairing for fork mounted lights etc. Something I'm doing to Jill's bike right now.

When's the trip & how long you going?

You wouldn't happen to have another Surefoot just lying about?

Any SH stand with a suitable area to weld to a fixed mounting point/plate will do the job.

I'm about to get something very similar fitted to SWMBO's bike. Migsel is designing one too you know. He said it should be ready by the end of winter

I can't wait that long though Jill's only got little legs so she won't be able to ride the bike without a reachable stand.

Val.

 

[Lilith]

When's the trip & how long you going?


I can't wait that long though Jill's only got little legs so she won't be able to ride the bike without a reachable stand.

Val.

The trip is starting on the 10th December and we shall be back 1st January.

Have you or Jill looked at this http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165409

It is my best knowledge of lowering R100GS's or most bikes for that matter

 

[Lilith]

You wouldn't happen to have another Surefoot just lying about?

Sorry no, all used as Cain made his own stand.

 

[Lilith]

My word you did have a busy weekend!!!
I do hope people realise just how much work you have done there
Is my side-stand in the post ?
Looking good..proper GS'ing

Thanks Kenny.
After all this effort, we both definitely need a holiday

Sorry but the side stand production line is currently closed

 

[VAL. H.]

The trip is starting on the 10th December and we shall be back 1st January.

Have you or Jill looked at this http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165409

It is my best knowledge of lowering R100GS's or most bikes for that matter

Thanks Lilith Jill remembered to have a look at her PMs last night and found it .

There is one more thing you can do to your bike. Having lowered the rear end a little, you will need to balance the bike out again by lowering the front by the same amount. This ensures your bike's geometry is correct and also when you check your oil you get a correct reading, thus preventing you from over filling the engine. Stops the bike from looking a bit odd too

We've done it the easy way, by simply fitting bar risers and sliding the fork stanchions up through the yokes.
However you still have the fairing fitted which means you can't do as we have.

So what you need to do is this:
Remove the forks from the bike. Remove the internals; spacer, spring and damper rods etc from both sides. It might be a good idea to drain the forks first to save a bit of a mess.

Take the spacers 'Long tubes located at the top above the spring', and cut them down by the same amount you have lowered the rear (for arguments sake we'll call it 2") Cut them carefully because you need all the bits. Now take those 2" sections and slide them up the damper rod from the bottom to the shoulder. This is the part of the damper that sits on the rebound spring (so basically the spacer goes between the rebound spring and the top of the damper).

Now put everything back together as it should be. Put the remaining part of the spacer back in place and screw the cap back in place. Your forks are now 2" shorter and can be refitted as per normal.

An interesting side effect of this conversion is that the forks become a little stiffer (improving the handling) by the simple fact that the bushes have a bigger gap between the lower leg and the stanchion.

This is a common conversion made to drop the front of the pre 96 Vmax to speed up the steering, and help it to go round the bends a little better.

Val.

 

[Lilith]

Electrifying Weekend

This weekend both bikes got the treatment. Well it is Christmas

1. Remove the diode board, stator and rotor
2. Fit a voltage regulator/rectifier and a solid state alternator.





For more info - http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/EDLBMW.html

3. Fit a Autocom bike to bike system (Pro Rider).
4. Spend the next 2 hours trying to fit the helmet mic and speakers. The installation leaflet is not much use and BMW Enduro helmets are particularly difficult. We phoned our closest Autocom dealer and ended up at Balderston chatting to Mat, after another hour we had managed to fit out both helmets.

We are both knackered, holiday required and on the way