Questions on wiring up TT fog lights

[Tim Cullis]

Each fog light comes with its own wiring loom which has a relay at the centre. Leading from the relay are:

- cable for positive battery connection with an inline 15amp fuse

- cable for negative battery connection

- two-core cable leading to fog light

- cable leading to handlebar switch, and from there to headlight low beam

Simplified version of TT electrical connection instructions

Install the switch on the handlebars.

Route the red cable to the battery positive pole, brown cable to the negative pole.

Route yellow cable to the headlight and connect it to the yellow low beam cable inside the low beam housing.

Route the 2-wire cable (red and blue wires) to the fog light.

Connect the battery. Test the light function on low beam. You might need to have the engine running for low beam to go on.

My questions are

1. I don't want to duplicate cable runs, does anyone see any problems using just one wiring loom and running the second fog from the first? Is the fuse OK for this?

2. I don't need a switch. If I replaced the cable that runs from the headlight low beam to the relay, via the switch, with a cable that runs directly from the low beam to the relay, does this sound as if it will work?

Tim

 

[skywalker]

Always thought that uk lighting regulations regarding fog lights were that they had to be operated on the low beam circuit, be on a switch and have an led or other type of light to show that the fog light was on. May come under construction & use rather than mot as the regs for bikes seem very vague.
With regard to the lighting - suggest you work out the consumption used by 2 lamps and adjust the fuse rating to suit.I would also check that the relay was up to powering 2 lamps and that the wiring was also suitable for powering 2 lamps on a single run.

 

[GSmonkey]

Zmeagol: Don't know the parts that make up the kit but, the fogs are 55W each, therefore 110W together = 9.2A, so I'd think you needed a 15A fuse to feed. You'll also need to check the rating of the relay if you're going to go to one relay as well.

The thing to remember about going for one feed is the volt drop. 10A is actually quite a current draw and will give noticable voltage drop through a small cable and hence the fogs will be dimmer. If you are going for one feed, use an uprated wire from that supplied (one thats at least 50% thicker).

From your desciption it sounds as though the handlebar switch was just using the dip beam live to feed the fog relay coil, so yes you could run directly from the low beam to the relay coil.

Somebody needs to do some research into the regs re. fogs. Like Zmeagol, I wasn't going to put a switch in, but put an easy disconnect in the feed to the relay, so that come MOT time they just wouldn't work. Not sure if this gets round the problem though

 

[BTBR]

A 10amp fuse will be fine for the supply fuse for both lights. You then need to use 2mm automotive cable for the main feed cable, this can then be split into two 1mm cables to supply each light once up by the headlight.

The same priciple applies for the earth cable as well, run two 1mm cables from each light, then run one 2mm cable back to the battery.

Most (all?) automotive relays are 30amp rated at least and will therefore take the load with any problems.

Just cover the cable with some PVC sheathing just to make sure so as avoid any possible chaffing or fretting under the tank.

BTBR

 

[GSmonkey]

Looked up this fascinating legislation, that forms part of the European Whole Vehicle Type Approval. If you look at 6.7 of Annex IV, you'll see there's a whole section on motorbike front fog lights. A right riveting read.

It would appear that you do need a switch, but don't need an indication that they're on.

 

[GSmonkey]

Zmeagol: How did you get on with the lights? Saw the lights installed when you were parked up at the Ace and it looks a good set of lights and brackets....could be tempted myself.

 

[kennybleep]

Always thought that uk lighting regulations regarding fog lights were that they had to be operated on the low beam circuit, be on a switch and have an led or other type of light to show that the fog light was on. May come under construction & use rather than mot as the regs for bikes seem very vague.
With regard to the lighting - suggest you work out the consumption used by 2 lamps and adjust the fuse rating to suit.I would also check that the relay was up to powering 2 lamps and that the wiring was also suitable for powering 2 lamps on a single run.

I recall your same statement in a previous thread but what the hell if your more conspicuous to other traffic and are less likely to come to harm I will argue with the boy's in blue when the time come's around.
regards
kenny.

 

[Tim Cullis]

Installing the lights took about 6-8 hours in total. I'm not experienced at all in electrical installation, but I wasn't prepared to pay BMVV rates whilst my dealer benefited from the learning curve.

The instructions are poor (and that's being polite). You have to feel your way along which takes time. Now I know what's involved I reckon it would take 4 hours the second time and maybe 2.5-3 hours beyond that.

Both lights are run from the one circuit, and when I have some time I'll run thicker cables back to the battery.

It's round about now you wonder what you've got into. The relay is the small box with red and blue wires running into it.

In the end I mounted the switch by drilling a hole through the left hand protector. Looks neat.

The finished installation with UKGSers decal

Good light output at dazzle point

Normal daylight output. In summer I will probably raise the light beams to make them more obvious to oncoming traffic.

Tim

 

[HMarc]

I'm surprised nobody pointed out this page to you: http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/Lights1.html

 

[Tim Cullis]

I posted the pics in response to GSMonkey's question.

I saw your page some time ago, and whilst it's useful in a general way, there isn't anything there that helps with the Touratech fog light kit.

Tim