r 80 basic

[TONY G]

quick one for the pros. regarding the poor breaking on the basics!! is there an easy fix?? like maybe just changing the pads and shoes for some better ones?? with out haveing to go the hole caliper route?? thanks in advance

 

[Rob Farmer]

EBC HH pads

 

[VAL. H.]

+1 for HH or Cintered (or possibly marked 'racing/high performance') pads are your friend, although IMPO better makes than EBC exist.

For the rear I have to confess the EBC shoes do seem to be better than most other makes (if you can find any ).


Val.

 

[TONY G]

got a set of galfer hh pads for the front, much better than the oem ones. now to find ebc rear shoes,

 

[cookie]

a bigger or twin disc conversion.

IME changing pads will make no significant difference.

 

[Beemerboff]

There was a test of pads in Roadracing World a few years back, and EBS HH pads came out top, with Galfer HH not far behind.

In general use they had 20-25% more stopping power than organics.

The greatest advantage was when they got hot - the point where organic pads started to fade was when the sintered got going, and the OH S-IT! point where the organics faded into almost nothing was where the sintered HH pads were their best.

Apart from the /7 with ATE callipers I have EBC HH pads in all my bikes, and I have found the improvement is at least as much as in the Roadracing World tests, and I have the cumfort of knowing that if I ever really need them at high speed they are going too work.

 

[Captain Black]

These brakes were fine in the day. Just plan ahead a bit more, and squeeze a bit harder, they'll stop ya just fine.

 

[cookie]

25% better than fuck all, is still fuck all.

..and compared to their contempories, the basic's brakes were fucking pathetic.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[fayeslane]

This is the path I would go down, starting from cheapest and easiest.

1.Service braking system new fluid, seals if necessary.
2.New pads
3.Braided line
4.Caliper upgrade
5.Semi floating disc
6.Twin disc

On my R100GSPD a 320mm disc with R1150RT caliper gave an acceptable level of braking, the limitation being the narrow front tyre. I was happy to spend the money because at the time it was my daily ride.

Improve the brake a bit and ride within its limits is probably the answer.

 

[Rob Farmer]

Apart from the /7 with ATE callipers I have EBC HH pads in all my bikes, and I have found the improvement is at least as much as in the Roadracing World tests, and I have the cumfort of knowing that if I ever really need them at high speed they are going too work.

That's my experience of them as well

 

[v4our]

Got a 4 pot Brembo machined and ready to fit a paralever for sale. £120 posted.

Regards Trevor.

 

[VAL. H.]

Got a 4 pot Brembo machined and ready to fit a paralever for sale. £120 posted.

Regards Trevor.

For one! Just let a pair go on ebay £90 no bidders. Was thinking of putting them on my 80. But snagged a matching pair of srandard Brembos for £46.


Val.

 

[SeanW]

I have no experience of swopping pads (not even sure what pads I have at moment) but I did a bit of experimentation at weekend on what was otherwise stock set up on my 100GS :

Swopped to stainless steel braided hose - barely noticeable improvement. Level of squidginess pretty much the same; reached a scarily weak maximum braking force very quickly, no improvement the harder you squeeze

Swopped to 320mm stainless disc with caliper adaptor bracket- Massive improvement, mostly noticeable when you squeeze hard; you get more braking power, not the same. Feels safe now.

Only thing not quite happy about is that with the stainless hose, the pads seem less willing to retract from the disc when there's no lever pressure. They're not binding as such and the disc looks true enough, but when you spin the wheel, where before it would spin almost freely, now it does about one revolution then stops.

I note that Snowbum has some opinions about this (one aspect of narrower bore stainless hoses being a bad thing generally in this mind) - has anyone else experienced this? Sounds a bit dubious to me.

Or maybe it's because the caliper is positioned slightly closer to the wheel with the adaptor, and so a previouisly exposed (dirty) part of piston is now in contact with the seal and sticking a bit more as a result? The caliper was f***ing filthy and didn't get stripped during the recent rebuild....

 

[bumpmuncher]

Only thing not quite happy about is that with the stainless hose, the pads seem less willing to retract from the disc when there's no lever pressure. They're not binding as such and the disc looks true enough, but when you spin the wheel, where before it would spin almost freely, now it does about one revolution then stops.

Sounds like it needs bleeding properly There may be a tiny amount of air left in the system

 

[SeanW]

...yes, except I didn't break the line between swopping the discs over - so if there was any air in it before (with orioginal disc), it wasn't stopping the wheel turning freely

 

[VAL. H.]

I have no experience of swopping pads (not even sure what pads I have at moment) but I did a bit of experimentation at weekend on what was otherwise stock set up on my 100GS :

Swopped to stainless steel braided hose - barely noticeable improvement. Level of squidginess pretty much the same; reached a scarily weak maximum braking force very quickly, no improvement the harder you squeeze

Swopped to 320mm stainless disc with caliper adaptor bracket- Massive improvement, mostly noticeable when you squeeze hard; you get more braking power, not the same. Feels safe now.

Only thing not quite happy about is that with the stainless hose, the pads seem less willing to retract from the disc when there's no lever pressure. They're not binding as such and the disc looks true enough, but when you spin the wheel, where before it would spin almost freely, now it does about one revolution then stops.

I note that Snowbum has some opinions about this (one aspect of narrower bore stainless hoses being a bad thing generally in this mind) - has anyone else experienced this? Sounds a bit dubious to me.

Or maybe it's because the caliper is positioned slightly closer to the wheel with the adaptor, and so a previouisly exposed (dirty) part of piston is now in contact with the seal and sticking a bit more as a result? The caliper was f***ing filthy and didn't get stripped during the recent rebuild....

Braided hoes will only improve the braking. assuming it's blead propperly. I reccon you are right about the dirt in the seals preventing the pads from retacting. You need to get the calliper off and the pads out for a really good clean up. Especially the exposed dirty part of the piston.


Val.

 

[Richard A]

I don't want to sound like a smartarse, but I've made several fast descents down the Stelvio on my Basic (with full cases) which runs a standard (sintered pad) set up and, while, as ever, it was a good workout for my puny right forearm, I never felt that I had anything less than the level of retardation that I would expect a skinny 90 enduro tyre to be able to provide.

Like I said, I'm not trying to make a clever dick rebuttal of schemes to improve braking power because most people here know what they are talking about, but more may not be that much more on the architecture of an airhead GS.