R100GS battery:- Motobatt MBTX30U

Timpo

North Wales TRF
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Looking for confirmation that a Motobatt MBTX30U is the correct battery to fit in a 1989 R100GS.
Only been able to use cross reference chart on Motobatt's website but it does not mention specific bike models, so would like to hear from any tosser who has this battery fitted and working in their airhead.
Thanks.:thumb2
Timpo.

PS. Did we ever find out what the kettle of hot water over the carbs trick did.....? I couldn't find Steptoe's answer.;)
 
Looking for confirmation that a Motobatt MBTX30U is the correct battery to fit in a 1989 R100GS.
Only been able to use cross reference chart on Motobatt's website but it does not mention specific bike models, so would like to hear from any tosser who has this battery fitted and working in their airhead.
Thanks.:thumb2
Timpo.

PS. Did we ever find out what the kettle of hot water over the carbs trick did.....? I couldn't find Steptoe's answer.;)


Looking at the pics, I'd say it's a bit deep. You'd have to junk the tool box.

I'm wondering why you want a 32Aph too :nenau Are you planning to hang loads of lights off it, or maybe jump start other bikes on the hills?

I fitted a West Co 20Aph sealed for life battery to Jills 100 18 months ago. I can't remember if I got it off the net or from Motorworks, but it was only about £58.00. It's also about one third narrower than the OE battery, leaving space for extra tools etc. On tour we charge batteries, phones etc while traveling with no ill effects.

It's still going strong even after an extended winter lay up (occasional 3 day Optimate charges) with no singes of being slow or lazy.


Val.
 
i use an mbx18u, fits the g/s fine and seems to work ok even with 1000cc conversion, not sure about the fit on the GS tho. best price i could find was from wemoto.com dowm here on the south coast:thumb2
 
I have the MBTX20U in my R100GS. Really happy with it so far.

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I think the heat expands and seals the top cover so it does not suck air in if the diaphram rubber has gone bad :nenau

Not even remotely close :D

It must be "choke" related. There is no choke, only an enrichment device/circuit.
The enrichment disk has 2 holes for half and full "choke" operation.

Assuming the disk is in the "right" carb, it can only be a leak in
1) the cover plate gasket... or
2) the disk to body "fit", ie. one of them is not flat or
3) the O-ring is u/s, or
4) the disk housing is bent/porous/fecked

So... the hot water swells the buggered bit so it seals:nenau

John
 
It makes the petrol evaporate and atomize much better




And you can have a cup of tea with what's left :thumb2

I think :rob
 
Not even remotely close :D

:D We should start a list of nope not that either :beerjug:

It does definitely helps to atomize the fuel quicker, I just can't connect the dots in terms of what has gone wrong where it supposedly work fine before without hot water.

I recently redone my carbs just gaskets and o-rings, starts very easy now where before it would easily turn over for near a minute before firing up with or without the choke. Now I only have to open the choke about 1/4 and it fires up pronto :nenau
 
It must be "choke" related. There is no choke, only an enrichment device/circuit.
The enrichment disk has 2 holes for half and full "choke" operation.

Assuming the disk is in the "right" carb, it can only be a leak in
1) the cover plate gasket... or
2) the disk to body "fit", ie. one of them is not flat or
3) the O-ring is u/s, or
4) the disk housing is bent/porous/fecked

So... the hot water swells the buggered bit so it seals:nenau

John

Why pour hot water over the tops of the carbs instead of the choke bodies if they need expanding :nenau
 
Why pour hot water over the tops of the carbs instead of the choke bodies if they need expanding :nenau

Difficult to get at the chokes directly;)
The only thing to seal at the top is the little disk in the pot... you can seal that with almost anything to eliminate it, but that's related to the diaphragm which is a venturi control

Still think its to do with items #48 through 50 in this pdf.

More general stuff here but not found anything choke specific.

John
 
I think you onto something here John, Steptoe hasn't piped in yet with no it's not that :D

I still have the old choke gaskets, can certainly "modify" one of those to work even less efficient and see if the bike struggles to start :toungincheek
 
i'd say it's a follow up to his "shit in the carbs" post - for hygiene reasons. :augie
 
Steptoe.....We should have got the ALF to kidnap the bugger at the Wee-kend. we could have stuck him in the snoring field, doctored his curry, burnt his sausages or any number of tortures till he talked:

And if that didnt work there was always the GS club sticker on the tank job:D
 
Looking for confirmation that a Motobatt MBTX30U is the correct battery to fit in a 1989 R100GS.
Only been able to use cross reference chart on Motobatt's website but it does not mention specific bike models, so would like to hear from any tosser who has this battery fitted and working in their airhead.
Thanks.:thumb2
Timpo.

PS. Did we ever find out what the kettle of hot water over the carbs trick did.....? I couldn't find Steptoe's answer.;)

Not fitted in a airhead but the Motobatt was the only non acid battery that's the same size as the one used in the single f650's without having to hack things to make it fit.

Works well in the 650, saw this test and that sold me :thumb2
 
Looking at the pics, I'd say it's a bit deep. You'd have to junk the tool box.

I'm wondering why you want a 32Aph too.....

The MBTX30U is supplied with a 17mm spacer, making the total height 192mm so the tool box will rest on the top of the battery retaining straps.

And I'm looking for the largest size battery I can get in the standard battery tray. The cold starting of my GS is not the best with this small battery fitted, so the extra power should do the trick. If I connect my Land Rover battery to the bike, it starts first go.....

T.
 
I have got a 16 Aph Hawker battery fitted on my R100GSPD that came on a bike i broke a while ago
It's much smaller than the hole and i have had to put it in a box to make it bigger
It's been on for 4 years now and starts the bike fine even in the winter when it's not been started for a couple of months
Might be worth checking out the starter motor, connections
and charging system
The coil can also cause bad cold starting
 
The Motobatt 51813 / 51814 doesn't fit a G/S , at least not one with a WP shock.

It is 5 mm too wide,thick and high, just gets into the battery box if the box is, err, persuaded, a little, but wont clear the shock.

If I removed the battery carrier and modified it a bit it would probably be possible to get it in,and remove the air cleaner, but I can swap things round and use it elsewhere.
 


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