I should be looking at an R100RS over the weekend. I have an 1100GS, but do not have any experience of the airheads. What are the most important things to check out. It has done less than 40K apparently.
R100RS what to look for when buying?
- Thread starter MarkShelley
- Start date
Not ...
... that I can contribute much, but it'll do as a bump while the airhead owners are being dressed by their carers !
The RS had two incarnations, the original twin-shock and later mono-shock; the former is apparently more desirable but is older so condition is the key. The mileage is nothing as long as it's warranted as it's a relatively low stress engine. What makes the RS special is the fairing, and this needs to be complete in all respects as bits can be hard to find. Rubber gaiters around fork legs are often 'lost' and higher screens are common, but not all bad if you are tall. Original seats (sort of fastback) are very sought after but often replaced 'cos they didn't leave a generous pillion perch.
Brakes are rather 'dated', even compared to the 1100 but can be made to work; I think the original had the under-tank master cylinder which is often converted to the later version mounted on the handlebars.
The other bits are typical airhead and will therefore leak if left unattended but are not hard to find or replace. Exhausts will rot at joints but again, replacements are readily found, if not cheap. SS systems are a definite plus.
Like any bike, they need to be ridden regularly and maintained, if left in a shed it'll cost £'s to recommision, how much is up to you.
Just my thoughts ... nurse
... that I can contribute much, but it'll do as a bump while the airhead owners are being dressed by their carers !
The RS had two incarnations, the original twin-shock and later mono-shock; the former is apparently more desirable but is older so condition is the key. The mileage is nothing as long as it's warranted as it's a relatively low stress engine. What makes the RS special is the fairing, and this needs to be complete in all respects as bits can be hard to find. Rubber gaiters around fork legs are often 'lost' and higher screens are common, but not all bad if you are tall. Original seats (sort of fastback) are very sought after but often replaced 'cos they didn't leave a generous pillion perch.
Brakes are rather 'dated', even compared to the 1100 but can be made to work; I think the original had the under-tank master cylinder which is often converted to the later version mounted on the handlebars.
The other bits are typical airhead and will therefore leak if left unattended but are not hard to find or replace. Exhausts will rot at joints but again, replacements are readily found, if not cheap. SS systems are a definite plus.
Like any bike, they need to be ridden regularly and maintained, if left in a shed it'll cost £'s to recommision, how much is up to you.
Just my thoughts ... nurse
Recommend you take someone who knows about Airheads and not the blonde type either.
It's good to have an objective point of view that will think cost to fix rather than easy to fix.
The first thing I would check for is crash damage.
Botched repairs
Receipts for maintenance etc
Is it complete and everything functioning.
What one are you going to view?
It's good to have an objective point of view that will think cost to fix rather than easy to fix.
The first thing I would check for is crash damage.
Botched repairs
Receipts for maintenance etc
Is it complete and everything functioning.
What one are you going to view?
This link at least gives you an idea of where to start: http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/Articles/Buyers-guide/The-UK-Airhead-Boxer.aspx Prices seem to have moved up since the article was written.
Parts are easy to find and as usual ebay is a good place to look. Things like the Fork gaiters oblertone mentions are cheap enough to replace, I paid about £11 each for new ones recently from Sherlocks. I got a NOS BMW high tinted screen from ebay for £35 as opposed to £140 from BMW.
Here's mine which I have just finished
Parts are easy to find and as usual ebay is a good place to look. Things like the Fork gaiters oblertone mentions are cheap enough to replace, I paid about £11 each for new ones recently from Sherlocks. I got a NOS BMW high tinted screen from ebay for £35 as opposed to £140 from BMW.
Here's mine which I have just finished
Attachments
It is an early one. If it is a good one with perfect bodywork etc and mechanically sound, what sort of value do you reckon?
It depends on how nice it is and how much you want it.
I'm not a good judge on values.
I'm not a good judge on values.
Echo all the above points.
Just bought a very nice R100RS today. Blue and silver 1980, all original.
Values vary greatly. Condition is everything. They can easily be a money pit if too much is wrong with them. Some chancers on ebay are asking thousands for overpriced crap but there are still bargains to be had if you are wise and in no rush. A good one is worth waiting for. Remember a 30 year old bike will have a lot of history so find out as much as possible about its past life.
Some parts that you think are cheap are expensive and vice versa. Ebay is great for picking up second hand bits.
South Coast Boxers or James Sherlock are both excellent for some of the hard to get bits.
Try to interogate the previous owner. If they are a boring old fart who has owned airheads for years that is usually a good sign. Very good idea to take knowledgeable old enthusiast with you, preferably someone who can talk about airheads for several hours until the seller is willing to give the bikes away just to get rid of you both! If the old enthusiast is Jewish, it will also help with the cut throat negotiations. [ Thanks Proff]
Ask any questions on here. There are many very knowledgeable and helpful old gits on here who will be happy to help.
Its not this one is it:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160559190486&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Expect that to go for more than £750! Anything below £1,250 would be good value in my opinion. Could go for double that on a good day (for the seller).
Just bought a very nice R100RS today.
Blue and silver 1980, all original.Values vary greatly. Condition is everything. They can easily be a money pit if too much is wrong with them. Some chancers on ebay are asking thousands for overpriced crap but there are still bargains to be had if you are wise and in no rush. A good one is worth waiting for. Remember a 30 year old bike will have a lot of history so find out as much as possible about its past life.
Some parts that you think are cheap are expensive and vice versa. Ebay is great for picking up second hand bits.
South Coast Boxers or James Sherlock are both excellent for some of the hard to get bits.
Try to interogate the previous owner. If they are a boring old fart who has owned airheads for years that is usually a good sign. Very good idea to take knowledgeable old enthusiast with you, preferably someone who can talk about airheads for several hours until the seller is willing to give the bikes away just to get rid of you both! If the old enthusiast is Jewish, it will also help with the cut throat negotiations. [ Thanks Proff
]Ask any questions on here. There are many very knowledgeable and helpful old gits on here who will be happy to help.
Its not this one is it:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160559190486&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Expect that to go for more than £750! Anything below £1,250 would be good value in my opinion. Could go for double that on a good day (for the seller).
What to look out for all depends on what year the bike is.. You have three different variations of R100RS - pre 81, post 81 and the post 85 monos.
Pre 81. heavy flywheel engine
Post 81. light flywheel and revvier but feel mechanically harsher
Post 85 mono, best handling of all, slightly detuned, therefore less harsh..
It is pre 81
ians
Registered user
As you say it's pre 1981 and you have no experience of airheads be warned the "brakes" will terrify you.
I have a 1991 XTZ660. Dodgy brakes will not surprise me
bumpmuncher
Registered user
I have a 1991 XTZ660. Dodgy brakes will not surprise me
they can only dream of having brakes that good
A bit like the rather cosy relationship my knees have with the cylinder heads of my Guzzi you mean
ians
Registered user
I have a 1991 XTZ660. Dodgy brakes will not surprise me
To put ATE brakes into perspective I have among my little collection of bikes a 1985 Honda Xl600lmf and that stops on a sixpence by comparison.
When I get on a modern bike I always nearly lock up the front the first time I have to brake.
I am not trying to put you off but it really is scary until you adapt your riding technique, or are known as "proff".
On a test ride, Do not, repeat Do Not try to change gear quickly.
The correct procedure is Clutch in count 123 and move lever changing up,
Changing down = Clutch, 123 accompanied with a quick blip of throttle when moving lever.....
I've seen many a white face on those who change down without blipping
Locks the back wheel quicker than any airhead brakes do
The correct procedure is Clutch in count 123 and move lever changing up,
Changing down = Clutch, 123 accompanied with a quick blip of throttle when moving lever.....
I've seen many a white face on those who change down without blipping
Locks the back wheel quicker than any airhead brakes do
On a test ride, Do not, repeat Do Not try to change gear quickly.
The correct procedure is Clutch in count 123 and move lever changing up,
Changing down = Clutch, 123 accompanied with a quick blip of throttle when moving lever.....
I've seen many a white face on those who change down without blipping
Locks the back wheel quicker than any airhead brakes do
And, ideally, pre-weight the shift lever a bit. Seems to take some of the sting out of changing.
I still miss my RS. Never liked the handling (always felt like it would weave over a matchstick in the road), but I loved it:
Pussy will always be attracted to class
Nice bike
Nice bike
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