Handlebar master cylinder conversion is a must as is disks in good condition. The ATE calipers cut a dip into the rear of the disk, once this happens you haven't got a hope in hell of getting them to work properly. The ATE's on my RS work better than my my 100/7 with a Brembo front end fitted.
Handling wise a good mod is to fit the 81 on swinging arm this gives more rigidity and a drive shaft with a shock absorber fitted so the gear changes are much smoother the down side is you have to cut the mounting plate for the brake light switch to get the chunkier swing arm in so you really need a hydraulic brake light switch fitting if you have a disk rear brake.
The master cylinder mod is easy to do but you need the later bar pad as well, unfortunately it isn't a cheap mod and the master cylinder parts are hard to come by 2nd hand. I fitted the later switch gear to my 78 as it's easier to use if you're jumping between bikes.
The tramlining on ridges in the road is usually down to wheel bearings being either worn or not being shimmed correctly. They still handle like supermarket trollys though
Heavy flywheel engines are fantastic, usually smoother than the later engines but worth having just for the induction roar and torque. Find out if the breather has been updated to the later type, the early breathers can cause to much pressure to build in the crankcases leading onto oil leaks and misting on the gasket faces.
ATE front forks have 3 small piston rings in each of the fork dampers, these wear causing all sorts of strange fork actions and damping issues, they are cheap and should be regarded as service items. Be wary of using the Aeroshell 4 oil supplied by Motobins, it causes too much sticktion in the forks. Belray 5 or similar is much better and gives a supple action. Going too heavy on the damping oil on the ATE front end causes poor action as well.
The RS bars are a pain in the arse for town or low speed riding but the whole thing comes together as a high speed touring bike.
The fairings are very good but you loose all sense of speed. Mines so smooth at high speed you have to keep checking the speedo to keep the speed down to legal levels. The crossmember for the fairings sometime break where they clamp up under the tank, this can cut into the main wiring harness so make sure the brackets nice and tight and there's no flex in the fairing. The front spider for mounting the fairings can also corrode/crack leaving the whole thing flapping about.
Speedo housing and circuit boards are another source of problems. Make sure all of the lights work. a new housing and circuit board comes in around £150 and is a fiddly job to do.
Pre 81 bikes will be running on points unless an electronic ignition has been fitted. If the bikes fitted with a Boyer make sure it's a Microdigital unit. The early analogue Boyer had an advance curve that didn't suit the engine.
Strangely addictive bikes and a world apart from GS's
