R1100GS ABS lights after line change

[trinituner]

Morning,

I have been assisting a Pal of mine the last couple of weeks to get his new to him GS up to scratch after being stood for ages, anyway we just did a full line change with calliper rebuild and brake pads, everything was bleed correctly and the lever has excellent feel..

I have carried out this procedure on my own bike without issue but this time round after a test ride there is a ABS issue..

You get the intermittent flashing lights, I cleared these by resetting the fault codes whilst holding down the ABS button then you get the correct light sequence and ABS self test after move off.. However the fault comes back again after a mile or so showing the intermittent flashing lights.

The battery is brand new, the ABS unit was bleed, the ABS system works after reset but for some reason reverts to intermittent flashing within a mile of pulling away that then disables the ABS..

Where best given the situation would be the first port of call to investigate???..

Regards

 

[DrFarkoff]

Isnt that simple

R1100 needs you to ground out a pin in the diagnostic plug (Depending which one you have) AND then press and hold the ABS button for about 30 seconds and release and shut off ign, count to 10 and turn back on

good news is that the ABS button is working the pressing merely acknowledges that you are aware of the fault and stops the lamps flashing for 20 mins approx

I am not sure of the Early R series had the flat 3 pin diagnostic plug in which case its the centre pin that gets grounded

If its the round one on the airbox its the Brown wire with the BLUE trace that gets grounded (Wait for a couple more answers to confirm but I am 90% sure ((its early I was up late and I am going for a ferry in 15 minutes or I would double check )

 

[trinituner]

Isnt that simple

R1100 needs you to ground out a pin in the diagnostic plug (Depending which one you have) AND then press and hold the ABS button for about 30 seconds and release and shut off ign, count to 10 and turn back on

good news is that the ABS button is working the pressing merely acknowledges that you are aware of the fault and stops the lamps flashing for 20 mins approx

I am not sure of the Early R series had the flat 3 pin diagnostic plug in which case its the centre pin that gets grounded

If its the round one on the airbox its the Brown wire with the BLUE trace that gets grounded (Wait for a couple more answers to confirm but I am 90% sure ((its early I was up late and I am going for a ferry in 15 minutes or I would double check )

It's a 99 GS, under the seat is the three hole connector, we have reset the ABS as per instructions with pushing a pin into the middle connector then grounding a wire leading off said connector whilst holding the ABS button which does reset the ABS to full working order.

However, it is reverting back to alternate flashing within a couple of minutes of riding???..


Regards

 

[Ian J Hartley]

After you changed the lines and blead the system, did you also blead the ABS pump via the two bleed nipples on top.

 

[trinituner]

After you changed the lines and blead the system, did you also blead the ABS pump via the two bleed nipples on top.

Yep sure did...



Regards

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Then the only thing left to do is build yourself an ABS fault reader from an LED and count the flashing sequence to help pin down the likely cause of your fault.

http://largiader.com/abs/absfault.html

 

[fizzer]

have you had the wheels out at any time,if so check the gap between the sensors and abs rings

 

[trinituner]

have you had the wheels out at any time,if so check the gap between the sensors and abs rings

Yep wheels have been out for tyres, not sure Gap would have changed since before the lines and tyres etc?.. Nothing has been mentioned to me about any spacers or shims being lost.. Without delving into a manual what is the correct Gap??,


Regards

 

[fizzer]

i think there is a sticker on the fork leg mate with the gap distance.yes i know what you are saying about moving nothing,neither did i when i had my wheels out,but i had to put one less shim in and reset the light and it cleared itself

 

[trinituner]

i think there is a sticker on the fork leg mate with the gap distance.yes i know what you are saying about moving nothing,neither did i when i had my wheels out,but i had to put one less shim in and reset the light and it cleared itself

Yeah thanks for the idea I will look into it and post back..

 

[DrFarkoff]

Did the ABS work before replacing the Tyres??

As there is also a spacer disc on the back wheel between the Wheel and the Final Drive, Is it still there?

Again I think (On your model) the Rear sensor is through the rear drive (rather than on a bracket at the calliper)

Check the face of the sensor for wear, shows wheel too close to sensor (missing wheel spacer shim usually) and check the cable carefully for harsh kinks as it comes out of the sensor

and check the front sensor I have seen these actually crushed with Salt corrosion (Again if it was working before the tyre change? this should still be okay as they are quite robust !)

 

[Steptoe]

Wrongly gapped sensors usually show up as a fault instantly You really need to have the fault codes read. All the guess work posted is simply a waste of time. Fir best result find someone with a GS911 and a three pin adaptor.