R1100GS abs Stainless brake line kit....does this look ok to you?

[B4bertie]

Hi All, pulled the 1100GS out the garage for a check over before the MoT and as I applied the front brake the lever went solid and the brakes locked on...it's the front left caliper. I removed it and cleaned it, the pistons move freely but pushing one in moves another as it appears the line is blocked and not allowing the fluid to return (it eventually eased a little). So I assume I've been lucky and caught the 30 year old oem brake lines breaking down internally at home rather than on the road (yes I know they should have been changed years ago)
So stainless lines it is then. Searching the web brought up this Hel kit for an abs equipped 1100GS https://www.motorcycleproducts.co.u...bmw-r1100-gs-abs-1994-00-5-lines-oem/1/024722
Two things bother me, one is the very low price of £100 (all other ss kits I can find range from £165 to £190) and the second is it says 5 lines but as far as I can see there are 4 lines for the 1995 abs model?. I contacted motorcycle products and they confirmed the kit is 5 lines and listed for the 1100GS ABS. I'd normally just go for it and return the part if it wasn't right but ss brake lines have the "no return' clause as they say they are made to order.
What do you think?

 

[DrFarkoff]

Hi All, pulled the 1100GS out the garage for a check over before the MoT and as I applied the front brake the lever went solid and the brakes locked on...it's the front left caliper. I removed it and cleaned it, the pistons move freely but pushing one in moves another as it appears the line is blocked and not allowing the fluid to return (it eventually eased a little). So I assume I've been lucky and caught the 30 year old oem brake lines breaking down internally at home rather than on the road (yes I know they should have been changed years ago)
So stainless lines it is then. Searching the web brought up this Hel kit for an abs equipped 1100GS https://www.motorcycleproducts.co.u...bmw-r1100-gs-abs-1994-00-5-lines-oem/1/024722
Two things bother me, one is the very low price of £100 (all other ss kits I can find range from £165 to £190) and the second is it says 5 lines but as far as I can see there are 4 lines for the 1995 abs model?. I contacted motorcycle products and they confirmed the kit is 5 lines and listed for the 1100GS ABS. I'd normally just go for it and return the part if it wasn't right but ss brake lines have the "no return' clause as they say they are made to order.
What do you think?

you need to count the joints or ask them for the breakdown in lengths if you want to be sure but I think theirs works like this

1 from master cylinder to Splitter on headstock (solid line to ABS unit)
1 from that splitter to another splitter at fork leg ***
1 across to other calliper from the connection above ***
1 from rear pedal to a splitter (solid line to ABS unit)
1 from splitter to calliper (solid line from ABS unit)

*** BM fit/supply this as one line

I think I used one of these kits before and they are fiddly but do work well and basically if you are fairly competent with the spanners its not a bad job

On the ABS unit there are 2 bleed nipples

one marked HR = Hinterrad = rear and the other VR = vorderrad = front

 

[B4bertie]

you need to count the joints or ask them for the breakdown in lengths if you want to be sure but I think theirs works like this

1 from master cylinder to Splitter on headstock (solid line to ABS unit)
1 from that splitter to another splitter at fork leg ***
1 across to other calliper from the connection above ***
1 from rear pedal to a splitter (solid line to ABS unit)
1 from splitter to calliper (solid line from ABS unit)

*** BM fit/supply this as one line

I think I used one of these kits before and they are fiddly but do work well and basically if you are fairly competent with the spanners its not a bad job

On the ABS unit there are 2 bleed nipples

one marked HR = Hinterrad = rear and the other VR = vorderrad = front

Thanks for the detailed breakdown Dr F, that makes sense

 

[Nick591]

I can recommend the Goodrich kit. Fitted one about 18 months ago. Made a big difference to firmness of brake lever. I found it was best to fill the new front lines from the bottom through the caliper bleed nipples as air can get trapped in the fork crossover union if you fill from the master cylinder.

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

 

[B4bertie]

I can recommend the Goodrich kit. Fitted one about 18 months ago. Made a big difference to firmness of brake lever. I found it was best to fill the new front lines from the bottom through the caliper bleed nipples as air can get trapped in the fork crossover union if you fill from the master cylinder.

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

Cheers Nick

 

[ClassicBertha]

I can recommend the Goodrich kit. Fitted one about 18 months ago. Made a big difference to firmness of brake lever. I found it was best to fill the new front lines from the bottom through the caliper bleed nipples as air can get trapped in the fork crossover union if you fill from the master cylinder.

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

Hi Nick. I'm just about to do this job on my GS. I still have original rubber lines. I know I know. Just out of interest, how do you carry out a brake fluid change from the bottom please? I have heard about this method, but manuals only teach filling from master cylinder. I'm interested to know. Thanks. Bradley

 

[Cyrano]

This is quite simple: just use a big syringe and an appropriate hose to force the fluid through the bleed nipple (admittedly open), until it reaches the master cylinder. It's a method used on bicycles, as the narrower hoses usually don't allow the fluid to flow down by gravity.

 

[ClassicBertha]

This is quite simple: just use a big syringe and an appropriate hose to force the fluid through the bleed nipple (admittedly open), until it reaches the master cylinder. It's a method used on bicycles, as the narrower hoses usually don't allow the fluid to flow down by gravity.

Thanks for the reply Cyrano

 

[DrFarkoff]

Hi Nick. I'm just about to do this job on my GS. I still have original rubber lines. I know I know. Just out of interest, how do you carry out a brake fluid change from the bottom please? I have heard about this method, but manuals only teach filling from master cylinder. I'm interested to know. Thanks. Bradley

Ehm @ClassicBertha Time to change those Lines!!!! Honestly at this age they will be hard as nails !!

AND quite possibly/Likely, be prone to internal delamination and become a one way valve!!

AS to the Eejit below with his syringe and back flushing?? Seriously? away back to your Bicycle !!! You want the schite to go OUT the calliper nipple not go back up into the MC especially with a functioning brake system! Just don't let the reservoir dry out! and even if it does Its fixable

NOTE all Below Not suitable for Integral / Servo assisted ABS

1stly Bradley I presume that you have a NON Servo assist ABS in your GS ??

IF so?? continue below

Buy a 50ml syringe a fresh half litre of DOT4 brake fluid (NOT DOT5 as it is Silicone based and may fuck up your seals !!) and find a container and a 3 foot length of clear tubing that you can get over your brake nipples! (May need to internal diameters depending on bike model !

Take off the tank and set it safely to the side (out of the squirt zone of the fluid!!! If you have one of BM's quick fill ports on the right side / rear calliper ?? Pour boiling water over it and get them well heated, the fill ports have their their Pink Loctite all the way on the threads So take it easy if it gets tight ? Heat it again, lest you gall the threads !!! and have a standard M10 bleed nipple handy to go straight back in,

On the abs UNIT you have 2 nipples VR (Vorder Rad=Front Wheel) and HR (Hinter Rad = rear wheel) Just make sure you can slacken these IF they are very tight? Don't force them you will break the rubber mounts My preference is to Dribble Boiling water over the top of the nipples this expands the aluminium and eases pressure on the steel nipple I don;t recommend my other method of a short "rap" on the nipple with a small ish hammer in case you shake schite loose inside that you want to flush and it gets into a corner!!

Anyway Free up the bleed nipples

Take off the lid of the Brake reservoir and remove the rubber diaphragm and Suck out fluid and schite in there clean with a decent clean rag and a pokey thing to get the crud out of the corners BUT not down the holes!!! You don't want anything getting stuck or clogging them!

Top up with clean fluid bearing in mind the level as you will be better to set the rubber diaphragm back in to prevent squirtage !!

Open the VR nipple and rap the lever rapidly with short strkes 2 to 3 mm max This clears any air bubbles from the fluid ports

Then Pump the brake lever with long slow strokes and watch the level

Keep pumping until you get clear brake fluid at the nipple

Close it top up the reservoir and move to the callipers Usually I do right side and then left side farthest on line

Once you have clear fluid button it all up and flush off any spilled Brake fluid with a good scoosh of water

Rear brake Just the same except you will use the HR nipple on the ABS block

But seriously ?? Change those rubber lines

P.S. I am not trying to be a smart arse!

I have no idea of your abilities and it may well be useful to some one else who simply does not know !

 

[ClassicBertha]

Ehm @ClassicBertha Time to change those Lines!!!! Honestly at this age they will be hard as nails !!

AND quite possibly/Likely, be prone to internal delamination and become a one way valve!!

AS to the Eejit below with his syringe and back flushing?? Seriously? away back to your Bicycle !!! You want the schite to go OUT the calliper nipple not go back up into the MC especially with a functioning brake system! Just don't let the reservoir dry out! and even if it does Its fixable

NOTE all Below Not suitable for Integral / Servo assisted ABS

1stly Bradley I presume that you have a NON Servo assist ABS in your GS ??

IF so?? continue below

Buy a 50ml syringe a fresh half litre of DOT4 brake fluid (NOT DOT5 as it is Silicone based and may fuck up your seals !!) and find a container and a 3 foot length of clear tubing that you can get over your brake nipples! (May need to internal diameters depending on bike model !

Take off the tank and set it safely to the side (out of the squirt zone of the fluid!!! If you have one of BM's quick fill ports on the right side / rear calliper ?? Pour boiling water over it and get them well heated, the fill ports have their their Pink Loctite all the way on the threads So take it easy if it gets tight ? Heat it again, lest you gall the threads !!! and have a standard M10 bleed nipple handy to go straight back in,

On the abs UNIT you have 2 nipples VR (Vorder Rad=Front Wheel) and HR (Hinter Rad = rear wheel) Just make sure you can slacken these IF they are very tight? Don't force them you will break the rubber mounts My preference is to Dribble Boiling water over the top of the nipples this expands the aluminium and eases pressure on the steel nipple I don;t recommend my other method of a short "rap" on the nipple with a small ish hammer in case you shake schite loose inside that you want to flush and it gets into a corner!!

Anyway Free up the bleed nipples

Take off the lid of the Brake reservoir and remove the rubber diaphragm and Suck out fluid and schite in there clean with a decent clean rag and a pokey thing to get the crud out of the corners BUT not down the holes!!! You don't want anything getting stuck or clogging them!

Top up with clean fluid bearing in mind the level as you will be better to set the rubber diaphragm back in to prevent squirtage !!

Open the VR nipple and rap the lever rapidly with short strkes 2 to 3 mm max This clears any air bubbles from the fluid ports

Then Pump the brake lever with long slow strokes and watch the level

Keep pumping until you get clear brake fluid at the nipple

Close it top up the reservoir and move to the callipers Usually I do right side and then left side farthest on line

Once you have clear fluid button it all up and flush off any spilled Brake fluid with a good scoosh of water

Rear brake Just the same except you will use the HR nipple on the ABS block

But seriously ?? Change those rubber lines

P.S. I am not trying to be a smart arse!

I have no idea of your abilities and it may well be useful to some one else who simply does not know !

@DrFarkoff - Thanks for your reply. My GS is factory Non-ABS. I will be getting Goodrich braided for this soon. It's off the road currently so not spoiling. I was just curious about the back flushing as I have seen this done and curiousity got the better of me. I have always bled brakes as you're thorough description - the ABS bit. Thanks again. Bradley