R1100GS Front Disc Fittings (Bobbins, washers etc) - Alternative source

gog

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As my front discs rattle a bit its time for a refresh of the fittings. Pricing it up at motorworks comes in pretty dear with 10 bobbins (BRA14887) at £4.40/ea, 10 wave washers (BRA14888) at £1.30/ea and 10 bolts (BRA30619) at £1.50/ea plus £7.50 p&p - a total of £79.50.

Theres a company on ebay selling a kit including all of the above for £32.50 delivered:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322399880935

Has anyone used aftermarket parts with success or is it (as with many other things) false economy and better to bite the bullet?

I have also read that adding M8 x 20 x 1 washers between the hub and disc can help, is this always the case or is it just if there is visible wear to the lugs?

Not sure if it makes any difference but the ABS ring is removed from my bike.

Cheers.
 
If the bolts and bobbin's are ok, you'll probability get away with just replacing the wavey washers.

Have you checked disc thickness ? Little point in doing all the mounts to have to take them off again in another couple of month's.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
 
cheers TAG, yeah the discs have plenty meat on them. i thought about just doing the washers but if that kit at £30 is decent may as well renew the lot.
 
Hi,
This has been discussed MANY times and a variety of search strings should bring up plenty information:thumb

The reason for fitting the 8x20x1 washers is because BMW made a spectacular cock-up of the design. The hub bosses the disc mounts onto are only a couple of millimetres bigger in diameter than the mounting slots in the disc - so the hard s/s of the disc wears it's way over the boss - so the side float of the disc increases - eventually a lot!
So, if you have the discs/bobbins/etc off your bike for inspection then FIT THE 8x20x1 WASHERS when rebuilding - because if the bosses are not worn/damaged already then they eventually will be. BMW part 34 11 7 670 217 (John Clark, Dundee?)

Bobbins usually tend to wear two flats where the disc is located and can be rotated by 90 degrees when refitting to give a fresh area to located disc - so you may not need new ones.

Wavey washers are often still ok - I have replaced them in the past , but not because they were badly worn or damaged.

Mounting screws don't get any wear - so are usually ok to refit - just use Loctite thread lock on assembly. Most people, however, tend to replace the mounting screws for stainless steel ones - the OEM screws look pretty shabby after one year!!!
I probably have a SPARE set of stainless disc screws (NEW) in the garage if you want them?

Hope the above is some help? I'm not far away from you. PM me if you need any more info:thumb


Cheers.....................Grizzly:beerjug:
 
Any minute now someone is going to chime in with the 'don't replace those disc bolts with stainless'
 
well thats done it - ive only gone and fitted stainless. it was nice knowing you all :blast

ive also bought EBC HH brake pads which will undoubtedly explode upon first use and im *probably* running the wrong grade/brand/colour of oil in every part of my tired old steed.

i like to think of it as living on the edge.
 
well thats done it - ive only gone and fitted stainless. it was nice knowing you all :blast

ive also bought EBC HH brake pads which will undoubtedly explode upon first use and im *probably* running the wrong grade/brand/colour of oil in every part of my tired old steed.

i like to think of it as living on the edge.

You are just uncaring for the environment, you should have got "green" brake pads ;-) you do realize that you will go straight to hell for using HH sintered pads, as they are the closest thing to satan himself!!!
 
You are just uncaring for the environment, you should have got "green" brake pads ;-) you do realize that you will go straight to hell for using HH sintered pads, as they are the closest thing to satan himself!!!

I would use pads made out of rhino horn and dolphin tears if it stopped me a fraction of a second quicker. The only thing 'green' about me is one of my toes, which I should probably have looked at.
 
I would use pads made out of rhino horn and dolphin tears if it stopped me a fraction of a second quicker. The only thing 'green' about me is one of my toes, which I should probably have looked at.

You need to be very careful of the rhino horn pads as the enviro fairy will strike you down the moment you buy them unless its on a full moon.

On a serious note, try the EBC kevlar green, the don't last long I was getting maybe 1500/2000 miles tops but they seemed to work best on my 1100 from the point of view of stopping, and I always carried a spare set and could do a pad change in about 10 minutes. But to and from work in london they were great as stopping me so figured that stopping fast in traffic was worth the trade off.
 
cheers for the heads up, but i prefer a harder longer lasting pad. i live semi rural and commute on quiet roads, no real city riding so the EBCs will work - i can often get through a day with next to no lever braking, engine brakes on these old bikes work very well!
 
Chiming in late to the thread as I was looking up the bobbins bit... I used EBC HH once and if used properly they seemed to wear the discs quicker than the pads... A bit like that Goldfren crap which wore both the pads and discs...! Ferodo standard pads are some of the best and brake and wear as they should...
 
I'm even later to the thread.
But can the hub also wear to the point that you can't stop the rattle.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
after putting mine back together with new bits the rattle was gone, but the extra 1mm of the washers caused the brake to drag. this prompted a calliper rebuild and turns out 4 of my 8 pistons were dragging badly and 2 were stuck completely. the recesses for the seals had lots of corrosion which was pushing the seals hard against the piston. i've removed the corrosion and new seals going in tonight, hopefully be an end to this saga
 


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