R1100GS long term project

[mikeyboy]

few more

 

[mcinlb]

Jesus man, if that's a new frame you're making, it could do with a tidy up...........

p.s. it'll weigh a ton..........

 

[Bendy toy]

Sidecars only need tubular mounting arms to create a cross braced attachment. My Squire had four IIRC. Left and right thread ball end joints would allow geometry adjustment.

Why replace the telelever with a clunky Leading link fork? And how are you going to attach the top and bottom fork yokes to a frame with no Headstock?

Leading links allowed the compromised frame built for telescopic forks to cope with sidecar side and steering forces. Telelever doesn't have that compromise but the legs might need reinforcement.

 

[mikeyboy]

Jesus man, if that's a new frame you're making, it could do with a tidy up...........

p.s. it'll weigh a ton..........

nice to see a positive response.
these plates are just roughed out.
as for the weight it is unimportant,the only thing that is important is that it will not break,or break the engine and gearbox casings.
this bike is being built to be ridden fully laden on unmade roads day after day @20k mile trip.
a few kilo's for the subframe is small fry when you consider it will be carrying up to 60kg of fuel and water plus spare tyres,wheels,tools,camping gear and food.

 

[ianboydsnr]

Liking this build thread

 

[edzt]

Jesus man, if that's a new frame you're making, it could do with a tidy up...........

p.s. it'll weigh a ton..........

give the guy a break, I'm impressed

 

[Bendy toy]

The sidecar mounts will need much thought.

Sidecar attachments all at one level will crack how ever heavily made. For ultimate strength 2 high level tubes between car and bike and 2 low level will work. Angle braces then triangulate the structure. You might need only a single horizontal high level tube. This effectively copies sports car suspension except it won't move. Strong and light with minimal bending moments.

It allows forces to go where the bike is strong enough to cope and the necessary geometry is adjustment so the rig can be made driveable.

Have you considered a parallelogram linkage that allows the sidecar to lean with the bike.? This solves all the heavy structural issues as there will be no side forces.

Also what about a mono wheel trailer (leans with the bike) to carry additional fuel and equipment.

 

[peepingtom]

looking great love the foot pegs great idea .

this may be of interest

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showth...om-scratch-on-an-1100&highlight=fanum+sidecar

 

[peepingtom]

give the guy a break, I'm impressed

 

[mikeyboy]

The sidecar mounts will need much thought.

Sidecar attachments all at one level will crack how ever heavily made. For ultimate strength 2 high level tubes between car and bike and 2 low level will work. Angle braces then triangulate the structure. You might need only a single horizontal high level tube. This effectively copies sports car suspension except it won't move. Strong and light with minimal bending moments.

It allows forces to go where the bike is strong enough to cope and the necessary geometry is adjustment so the rig can be made driveable.

Have you considered a parallelogram linkage that allows the sidecar to lean with the bike.? This solves all the heavy structural issues as there will be no side forces.

Also what about a mono wheel trailer (leans with the bike) to carry additional fuel and equipment.

i have probably spent best part of two years looking at different bikes before deciding on the 1100,specifically with the mounting points in mind,i have looked at fanums build in great detail .
it would have been a lot easier to have chosen a bike with a proper frame,but nothing else ticked all of MY boxes.
unfortunately the 1100 has only 4 areas where the mounts can be attached,these are all part of the engine/gearbox castings.the load from the side car will have to be spread over all of them without any flex,if the subframe flexes it WILL break either the lower crankcase or the gearbox casing.
if this happens once the trip is underway it will be game over!
two years and a lot of money building the bike will be wasted,in addition to this all of the organisation and planning will be for nothing,also the opportunity to take this length of time out of work will be lost.
with all this in mind, yes the subframe will be heavy.
it has to keep 250kg of bike and at least 200kg of sidecar and payload bolted together over unmade roads,in russia,mongolia ,turkey etc..
mike

 

[mikeyboy]

Why replace the telelever with a clunky Leading link fork? And how are you going to attach the top and bottom fork yokes to a frame with no Headstock? .

i have just reread the whole thread to see where i had suggested that i was fitting leading links ,
i will be keeping the telelever and will shorten the front "swing arm",then i will extend the fork bridge.
this will effectivly reduce the trail,without extending the rake.and will not lower the ride height.
mike

 

[mikeyboy]

i have made a fair bit of progress on the subframe over the last week or so,and will post some more pics this week.
its mainly fabrication stuff and tidying up.i will weigh the subframe as i am interested to know what it will weigh.
unfortunately for the project, work has picked up and i need to crack on with earning a living

 

[mikeyboy]

here are the component parts of the sub frame,first photo shows them loosely assembled so you get an idea how it all fits.
now to start radiusing and finishing up prior to welding it all together.
lots more to do

 

[mikeyboy]

who needs "hard parts"

 

[mikeyboy]

drilling and tapping threads for the "bashplate"

 

[mikeyboy]

waiting for materials till the end of the week
then i can start work on the upper mount and the bashplate

 

[NeilDD]

Mikey,
Looks good

A suggestion for you. When you do your long trip, take a set of drawings for the plates with you, so if you break something you can easily get it replicated..

Best of luck
Neil

 

[mikeyboy]

Mikey,
Looks good

A suggestion for you. When you do your long trip, take a set of drawings for the plates with you, so if you break something you can easily get it replicated..

Best of luck
Neil

good idea
got to say though,if this breaks,it was doomed from the start
and i should have bought an airhead

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

unfortunately the 1100 has only 4 areas where the mounts can be attached,these are all part of the engine/gearbox castings.the load from the side car will have to be spread over all of them without any flex,if the subframe flexes it WILL break either the lower crankcase or the gearbox casing.

why can,t you triangulate to the frame as normal ?

 

[mikeyboy]

unfortunately the 1100 has only 4 areas where the mounts can be attached,these are all part of the engine/gearbox castings.the load from the side car will have to be spread over all of them without any flex,if the subframe flexes it WILL break either the lower crankcase or the gearbox casing.

why can,t you triangulate to the frame as normal ?

and the frame bolts to.
the same place.
there will be a brace up to the rear subframe but this is just a triangular brace.
it all comes back to the same four places ,give me a couple of weeks and hopefully it will start to make a bit more sense.