R1150GS 2002 Near finished !

maxi

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Been listening for some time, but rarely post, however having learnt a lot from past posts, I am nearing the finishing stages of a complete strip down, back to bare metal and repainted just about everything item I can with a few changes under the bonnet so to speak.
came from a 1200gs and still have a Sertao

While, I have put just a few hundred miles on her since the rebuild, I was wondering if a should change the exhaust and what to go for, don’t really want much noisier
I have looked at Remus and cannot decide on type of finish, plain stainless or black, given the bikes colour scheme has anyone else a blue and white and what colour or manufacture did you go for.

Thanks Gareth
 

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That looks very very tidy :beerjug:

Rather than looking for a 'zorst can, consider maybe putting on a stubby.

You'll no doubt have had the OEM can off, so you know how much the bastard thing weighs.....just taking it off saves you all that mass, will net you about 50 quid on its sale, then a decent stainless steel stubby will set you back about 16 quid.

Noise wise, it's fine......louder by a little, but a lot 'fruitier' IYKWIM...a nice tone but not intrusive on long rides....the other big advantages are that you can fit equal sized panniers rather than having a massive cut out or a box that sits noticeably further out than the one on the other side, and you keep the cat, Lambda sensor and it doesn't need any tweaking to get it to run better.

The Cat is also CE stamped so plod aren't bothered about the lack of a final can.

Have a search for stubbies here and you'll see loads of pics :thumb
 
Looks lovely. What's the bit under the right foot peg? Best colour for a 1150 gs

I've had a Remus revolution (bit rubbish) and have a Remus titanium. I like the sound of the titanium with the y pipe.
 
Hi not sure what you mean under the right foot peg, lowered the peg and used a SW Motech stainless, does the titanium make a different noise to the Revolution
 
Very nice looking bike.



If it's the grey bit with two X on it it's the main stand spring. That's what a clean one should look like.

Lol!another mission for me to tackle!

The revolution sounds different on my r850r to the titanium on my 1150 gs. Titanium seems better overall. Different sound...I'm a sound engineer... M qualified to make these assertions!
 
Very nice piece of work there, which leads to a question. What did you use to paint all the silvery bits with i.e. cylinder heads, fork bridge, final drive etc?
 
Wait a second... where did this come from? Looks great!

We need more info please mr blue - year, mileage, what you've done, bits replaced, sources used, products etc...

I'm always inspired by projects, spill the beans mister!
 
If you are still on original brake hoses please consider replacing them for your own safety DAMHIK .
Nice job there
 
If you are still on original brake hoses please consider replacing them for your own safety DAMHIK .
Nice job there

CRIKEY - I am still on my original hoses on my 2002 version (and the original suspension at 70,000 miles and Steptoe says its fine!)
 
Excellent question on paints, I took ages before deciding and in the end used, Hammerite silver on the barrels, Wurth silver with a top coat of lacquer for the rocker covers, final drive, forks, engine and gearbox had a coat or two of PJ1 Satin Black, all from tins

Frames were short blasted and then powered coated silver or black as required

Gareth
 
Thanks for that. I was already going to smoothrite the fork bridges on my bike. It's good to know i can do the barrels with the same paint, should/when the need arise/s.
 
small update

Year made 2002 46k
Only have a few photos of the bike before work, can not seem to find any others, the bike was originally advertised on this forum
Purchased blind in Northern Ireland and rode home with the view of doing up
The list is endless on the parts so I will just cover the major areas and the past 6 months it has taken me to undertake in the garage

Completely striped back to metal on all paintable surfaces chassis, side and centre stand, crash bars sump guard, handlebars, all repaint accordingly, Tank paintwork was spotless
Replaced just about every nut and bolt with Stainless apart from the rotors, all bushes apart from the two in the stock.
Shocks rebuilt and Hypo springs
New foot pegs and lowered, handle bar rubbers replaced and heated grip wires repaired
Throttle cables replaced
Recover seat and added gel pad, well Allen in Somerset did that very well, was cheap at under 150
Rewired the electrical loom to remove outer cover that had perished, fuse box replaced, also removed the alarm in the process
HID lighting installed, Led rear tail light unit fitted
LEDs added to instruments with resistors
All old wires removed to return to standard
Brakes completely stripped disc, callipers clean resealed including the polishing of the internals to the ABS unit to quieten the start-up process, stainless brake lines fitted
Exhaust cleaned over two days of polishing must have taken 16 hours to get back the unmarked look
Rear main seal, clutch, slave cylinder,
Gearbox seals and main shaft bearing
Pivot bearings and diff main oil seal,
Completely stripped the forks and replaced everything inside, repainted the lower leg and added plastic protection
Wheels, bloody nightmare, cost to rebuild is a little prohibitive, when I say that I have a repair bill nudging 1100 pounds, I had to make savings and take a labour cost to me in that I stripped the wheels in sit and repainted, required masking every spoke to ensure no over spray, silver paint and lacquer
Replaced screen added GPS bracket and rewired in direct, 12 volt aux replaced
Added rear carrier, made up the tool kit to supplied
Minor point serviced everything and balanced carbs

Since the photos, I have now raised the handlebars, added Carb covers, added stainless gearbox filler drains bungs, removed over spray engine bolts and fitted stainless.

Looking at exhausts, attached a picture of one that looks very good

Gareth
 

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Looks great Gareth :thumb2

Top tip - remove the stainless plugs for.the gearbox and put the old ones back - they're soft and the Allen sockets will deform very easily - particularly as the stainless will tend to seize into the gearbox casing...
 


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