R1150gs Clutch lever take up nearly at the Bars

[Cloughy]

Hi Everyone.
Couple of things, most urgent is the first half of the clutch lever pull hasn't much resistance and the pick up is right back at the bars, there's no drop in the fluid level and no visible leaks at either end. Also there's a heavy knock on overrun in the lower gears, nothing under load, which goes when the clutch is pulled in. Any advise, just relating to this thank you very much, would be much appreciated. Ta

 

[Slipperyeel]

Hi Everyone.
Couple of things, most urgent is the first half of the clutch lever pull hasn't much resistance and the pick up is right back at the bars, there's no drop in the fluid level and no visible leaks at either end. Also there's a heavy knock on overrun in the lower gears, nothing under load, which goes when the clutch is pulled in. Any advise, just relating to this thank you very much, would be much appreciated. Ta

I had this last year. My guess is the slave cylinder and seal needs replacing.

First check your clutch fluid. It'll probably look like metallic coffee. There's an outside chance you could just change the fluid. But you're delaying the inevitable and meanwhile there is a chance fluid reaches the clutch along the push rod.

If it does look like metallic coffee, then buy a new slave cylinder and seal pronto. There are plenty of threads on here about doing the job, including my own.

Fiddly, but not difficult.

Let us know what the fluid in the reservoir looks like.


Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

 

[Steptoe]

Check colour of clutch fluid, if it's clear try bleeding the clutch before spending any money.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Did you adjust the lever adjustment Circular chrome thing with numbers on it I think clutch is 1 2 and 3

There's a different "feel" at each value

 

[Cloughy]

Thanks Guys. I've taken the plunge into the modern techno bike world having had a 1980 R80G/S for the last 15yrs. Unfortunately it had to go last year as i needed the cash, I know I know, but a month or so ago i dropped on a really cheap 51 plate 48k gs that had been sitting dead in someones garden for at least 2yrs and to make it worse it's only done 2500 miles in the last 10 yrs according to the mot history checker. So the plan was to get it running and run it around for a bit to see if it was worth spending on or if if was a breaker. Amazingly it only needed a fuel filter. I couldn't even blow through it and it looked like it had never been changed, basic service oil and filters. Well there was a bit more to it than that, including buying shares in Plus Gas and having to resort to the heat torch in a few places. So I've done about 300 miles on it at the weekend and this clutch problem seems like the only thing that might be a stopper. I'm surprised every seal on the bike hasn't gone to be honest. The transmission does feel as baggy as a pair of clowns trousers but so did my old one for years and years.
Anyway now it seems like it might be ok ish I'll Change the rest of the fluids, Clutch, Brakes, Gearbox and Bevel box. Last of the big spenders me!
I'll let you know how it goes, thanks again.

 

[Cloughy]

well i topped up the fluid and bled the system but as there were no leaks the fluid had to have gone somewhere, this was confirmed on the test ride when the clutch slipped almost immediately! it did look like the crank seal was weeping anyway but the addition of clutch fluid has finished it off.
so it's got to come apart then, apart from obviously having to undo a bit more crap it doesn't look much different to do than my old airhead.
just got to decide whether to take off the wheel and shaft or remove the lot complete? what do you think?

 

[DrFarkoff]

2 different points of view here I say split it completely because you can grease the propshaft splines and check, clean, lubricate, everything from back to front as you go

If you just want to do the clutch and seal and "run" then slide it back in one lot

 

[Steptoe]

well i topped up the fluid and bled the system but as there were no leaks the fluid had to have gone somewhere, this was confirmed on the test ride when the clutch slipped almost immediately! it did look like the crank seal was weeping anyway but the addition of clutch fluid has finished it off.
so it's got to come apart then, apart from obviously having to undo a bit more crap it doesn't look much different to do than my old airhead.
just got to decide whether to take off the wheel and shaft or remove the lot complete? what do you think?

I doubt the leaking clutch fluid has caused the crank seal to leak.. In fact i doubt it was the crank seal weeping but the leaking clutch slave cylinder in the first place.

I've yet to see an 1150 with driveshaft splines stripped or worn (1200 models and K series bikes, yes, i've seen lots) so wouldn't worry too much about pulling it all apart and doing any preventive work.