R1150GS - Rusty-ness
- Thread starter Uncle T
- Start date
One minor tip that may be helpful, or may not… Don’t bother replacing the brake pads with stainless; they don’t work very well
You do know stainless steel and the magnesium/aluminium alloy like to make white powder babies don't you....
Been using stainless steel bolts like this on many a bike - using Copaslip on he threads - never had an issue! A google search e.g. stainless steel bolts and magnesium/aluminium alloy - says!
I did bin the replacement stainless steel disc rotor bolts - original are Torx and steel - ones supplied were Allen head bolts, they started to round before torque was reached.
Plus the head was deeper than the original, thus they were hitting the inside of the front right fork, where thee is a cutout to allow for the bolts not to hit!
Got a refund for those!
I used CV joint grease on mine. Some say lithium based grease but I tend to think any grease will work.
Your probably right
I have just moved over from using Copaslip on brake pads - of couse not on the pad to disc surface - to a smear of red rubber grease on the pads and pins!
Just remember that grease/copaslip etc will change the behaviour of any torque-measuring device (ie the torque reading will be affected and won't be correct).
A mate of mine used to do that, until he discovered that the pins on his calipers had worn the pin holes oval!Your probably right
I have just moved over from using Copaslip on brake pads - of couse not on the pad to disc surface - to a smear of red rubber grease on the pads and pins!
I prefer high-temp silicon grease for anything like that (but copaslip for threads).
Agreed. In this particular instance it was the front engine casing. I wouldn't use stainless fixings in a high torque application. If you take the LC bikes the s/s fixings are limited to bodywork. All the key fixings are mild steel still and for good reason. But folks pays there money and takes their chance.
Yep, found that out the hard way... It's interesting though, given that I too prefer to grease pretty much any bolt I replace, it does make torque settings a bit redundant other than as a guide.
This is what was recommended to me at the last permit inspection by the LAA Inspector:
shop4fasteners.co.uk
Duralac Anti-Corrosive Jointing Compound Yellow | Shop4Fasteners
<li><strong><FONT COLOR=#ff0000>Please note we cannot ship chemical products outside of mainland UK</strong></font color></li> <ul> <li>A long lasting corrosion inhibitor protects against decomposition between dissimilar metals</li> <li>This process is
shop4fasteners.co.uk
Well every days a schoolday! I too like to Copaslip nuts and bolts and I never thought of the consequences of bare metal versus lube on torque values.
Thanks for that
BM bolts tend to be better than most and it tends only to be the heads that get surface corrosion. A previous owner has fitted stainless to my 11GS and a few of the bolts and sizes are worse that the original. I try to grease the bolt heads each winter to keep them fresher. I certainly could say that BM's of 2000 back have never been a problem bolt wise except for some surface rust.
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