R1150GSA - hydraulic preload adjuster

[Beancounter]

Hello folks!

I've got a 2005 R1150GSA which has covered 23k miles. It's a recent purchase so I can't comment on how hard those miles have been but I've recently found out that the rear shock HPA turns and clicks but doesn't actually change position (i.e. doesn't rise or fall). I can only assume that the preload isn't being altered either.

I've read that the rear shock can be rebuilt but before I send it off I was wondering if anyone on here had any suggestions first?

Also, if the shock is knackered, is it better to just buy a new one?

TIA.

 

[Hay Ewe]

another shock thread!
its ok, there are a few around
the orignal BMW shocks fade and fail over time, pretty much Wilburs or Ohlins
Me, I went with Wilburs.

Yes, they can be rebuilt, my experience wasn't good though

 

[NeilDD]

Hello folks!

I've got a 2005 R1150GSA which has covered 23k miles. It's a recent purchase so I can't comment on how hard those miles have been but I've recently found out that the rear shock HPA turns and clicks but doesn't actually change position (i.e. doesn't rise or fall). I can only assume that the preload isn't being altered either.

I've read that the rear shock can be rebuilt but before I send it off I was wondering if anyone on here had any suggestions first?

Also, if the shock is knackered, is it better to just buy a new one?

TIA.

Hi BC
The HPA is a reasonably easy thing to check....
Unscrew the small banjo bolt in the centre of the HPA assembly.
Push the piston back with a blunt screwdriver
Fill with hydraulic jack oil or similar
Reconnect hose and banjo bolt

Test

If it now works all well and good, if not, you may require a new shock


HTH
Neil

 

[Flipfly]

Hi BC
The HPA is a reasonably easy thing to check....
Unscrew the small banjo bolt in the centre of the HPA assembly.
Push the piston back with a blunt screwdriver
Fill with hydraulic jack oil or similar
Reconnect hose and banjo bolt

Test

If it now works all well and good, if not, you may require a new shock


HTH
Neil

+1

I did this to my 650 dakar shock. Normal engine oil, fork oil, diff oil, it'll all work. You may need to take the shock off and clean it up to free it of. A night upside down soaked with pentrating oil works wonders.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Personally I had a very good experience with the rear rebuild/service. For 100 quid is way worth it. Did mine 18 months ago and still great (like it should be!). And a big improvement in the handling. I fitted a Wilbers up front though.

 

[Beancounter]

another shock thread!
its ok, there are a few around

In my limited and patchy defence, I did try to search but I didn't get much back (user error, obv not searching correctly). Thanks for sharing your experience tho'.

Hi BC
The HPA is a reasonably easy thing to check....
Unscrew the small banjo bolt in the centre of the HPA assembly.
Push the piston back with a blunt screwdriver
Fill with hydraulic jack oil or similar
Reconnect hose and banjo bolt

Test

If it now works all well and good, if not, you may require a new shock


HTH
Neil

Thanks, will give that a try.

+1

I did this to my 650 dakar shock. Normal engine oil, fork oil, diff oil, it'll all work. You may need to take the shock off and clean it up to free it of. A night upside down soaked with pentrating oil works wonders.

Thanks too.

Personally I had a very good experience with the rear rebuild/service. For 100 quid is way worth it. Did mine 18 months ago and still great (like it should be!). And a big improvement in the handling. I fitted a Wilbers up front though.

Who did you use for your rebuild?

One other question I have (which is probably a how long's a piece of string answer)... All things equal, which shock do you change first - front or rear?

Thanks for your help folks, it's appreciated.

 

[The Grey One]

Before you get too excited check that turning the knob actually does something. There is a nut in there that can simply turn in the plastic housing.

John

 

[Big Al Litch]

+1 For checking and topping up the fluid in the adjuster before you do anything else.

I found that my preload adjuster was doing practically nothing and read on this forum that it is known to run low of oil (over such a long period of time that no leak is ever detected), 10-minutes and a small quantity of hydraulic oil had it working perfectly again.

 

[BMWMIKE]

SHOCK RE BUILD

Beware if you go for a rebuild make sure that the remote adjuster is put back in the same position that it was when it was removed from the bike, had to send my shock back.

From another post -

Well not very happy why do they not take notice of the orientation of the remote adjuster and ensure that it goes back the same way,I have wasted a couple of hours today trying to make it fit.

So here is a heads up for anyone else contemplating having their rear shock re built, take a note of how it looks when you remove the shock from the bike, and make sure that whoever does the rebuild is aware of how it should be put back.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Who did you use for your rebuild?

I used MCT. Just Google them. They're in Suffolk. There's also ABE in S London.

Note that technically the front is not rebuildable. But ABE and a few others are able to work around this

 

[Beancounter]

Before you get too excited check that turning the knob actually does something. There is a nut in there that can simply turn in the plastic housing.

John

Finally had a chance to look at the rear shock and this ^^^ was the answer, the plastic housing has worn slightly and the nut had been wound up tight wouldn't budge. Took them apart and cleaned them up and all is well. I had just decided to buy Wilbers front and rear but I'll give the stock suspension a chance for now. Thanks for the advice.