r1200gs final drive rebuild.

this price includes all bearings,all seals,all o,rings and a new set of casing bolts. i have posted a few more details on the adventure bike rider forum with some photos(in the technical section),i will add a link to my website once it is up and running :D
 
Excellent thanks for the info :thumb
 
We've recently had a couple of questions concerning oil leaks. One onto the engine bash plate and one from the FD gaiter. They might both be gearbox, but does @mikeyboy have any thoughts about the bearing oil seals in the bearings at gearbox output and FD input?
 
We've recently had a couple of questions concerning oil leaks. One onto the engine bash plate and one from the FD gaiter. They might both be gearbox, but does @mikeyboy have any thoughts about the bearing oil seals in the bearings at gearbox output and FD input?
hi bendy toy,until the recent spate of posts regarding gearbox oil leaks i hadnt seen any need to tool up for gearbox strips.the first thing most people would notice to realise they had a problem was when the bearings went kapput!!.this generally scrapped the casings making a repair kind off irrelevant:blast
here is a deal:D if someone has a gearbox problem and they are willing to let me have the bike long enough so i can strip the box and fabricate any tooling i need ,spacers,press tools etc i will carry out the work at a very attractive price:D:thumby:.obviously the bikes owner will have to pay for any parts and materials.
once i have sorted my overhaul procedure i will be able to offer the repair along side the final drive and driveshaft overhaul i already offer :cool:
regarding the oil leak from the final drive input.
this can be down to 2 things,firstly the input pinion bearings are worn and this is allowing the shaft to wobble,this will have damaged the seal and a overhaul will be neccesary to rectify.
the other thing that may cause it is corrosion on the shaft spacer where the seal lip runs.unfortunately special tools are needed to remove the seal so it is unlikely to be a job to be done in the shed at the weekend.
 
I had mine rebuilt last year. Great job



BUT



The heat required to separate the parts will mark the paintwork!!
 
A previous thread on the same subject (patzx12 IIRC) said the pre 2007 bikes had a smaller pinion nose bearing that's prone to failing. The later ones had a slightly larger bearing and seem to be generally better.

Looking at the pictures those failed bearings do look pitted. Could it be they dont get enough oil? Would they do better if the inner end of the casing where the needle roller fits was opened out with a die grinder to allow oil to get into the bearing more easily.

I'm not saying this is the fix just asking if such a mod would be worth doing.
 
A previous thread on the same subject (patzx12 IIRC) said the pre 2007 bikes had a smaller pinion nose bearing that's prone to failing. The later ones had a slightly larger bearing and seem to be generally better.


Looking at the pictures those failed bearings do look pitted. Could it be they dont get enough oil? Would they do better if the inner end of the casing where the needle roller fits was opened out with a die grinder to allow oil to get into the bearing more easily.

I'm not saying this is the fix just asking if such a mod would be worth doing.
up to 2006 the pinion bearing is slightly smaller,around 2007 a few had a shim mounted behind the bearing to trap oil but the later ones did away with it,some later models have an oil drilling to improve oil flow to the "nose" bearing ,i see a broad mix of model years some have high miles some dont.(you couldnt say one model year was any better than another).:confused:
it is my opinion that changing the fd oil every service is essential as the small quantity of oil is sheared by the helical gears and as the pinion nose bearing is the weakest link. the lubrication fails.
once the bearing is pitted it will deteriate rapidly.:blast
this is not to be confused with having movement in the wheel,this is generally down to a combination of crap bearings and jetwashing:mad::blast
mike
 
up to 2006 the pinion bearing is slightly smaller,around 2007 a few had a shim mounted behind the bearing to trap oil but the later ones did away with it,some later models have an oil drilling to improve oil flow to the "nose" bearing ,i see a broad mix of model years some have high miles some dont.(you couldnt say one model year was any better than another).:confused:
it is my opinion that changing the fd oil every service is essential as the small quantity of oil is sheared by the helical gears and as the pinion nose bearing is the weakest link. the lubrication fails.
once the bearing is pitted it will deteriate rapidly.:blast
this is not to be confused with having movement in the wheel,this is generally down to a combination of crap bearings and jetwashing:mad::blast
mike
if you want to get really confused about it:confused::confused:
why dont the other 1200s suffer from the same failure rates??
i have repaired a few RT final drives but they predominantly had far higher mileages.maybe just down to less bikes sold.mike
 
What puzzles me is the pinion bearings fail yet the gear teeth look ok. The gear teeth are doing the seriously hard work but are always dipped in the oil. So to my mind its a poor oil feed to the needle roller thats doing it in.

Done properly, some sort of channel down the alloy above the bearing can't do any harm. But if its running dry until the bike has moved some distance it wont make a blind bit of difference.
 
What puzzles me is the pinion bearings fail yet the gear teeth look ok. The gear teeth are doing the seriously hard work but are always dipped in the oil. So to my mind its a poor oil feed to the needle roller thats doing it in.

Done properly, some sort of channel down the alloy above the bearing can't do any harm. But if its running dry until the bike has moved some distance it wont make a blind bit of difference.
the pinion bearing is30 or 32mm o/d depending on m.y.,the needle rollers a@1mm dia.imagine the thrust loading on that roller under full load!.
oil that has been "chopped "by the action of the gears for 10k is not going to be up to the job!this is why the bearing fails OMO.:D
mike
 
Has it got something to do with BMW recommending that the quantity of oil should be reduced from 240ml to 180ml? To prevent the slight weep of oil from the outer seal ( I won't reduce it in mine).
 
Has it got something to do with BMW recommending that the quantity of oil should be reduced from 240ml to 180ml? To prevent the slight weep of oil from the outer seal ( I won't reduce it in mine).
it is a fair comment ,but the earlier models which pressumably had more oil in them failed,leading bmw to introduce quite a few mods,and sticking to the smaller volume of oil.ultimately, its down to the fact that the fd is under engineered.
 
it is a fair comment ,but the earlier models which pressumably had more oil in them failed,leading bmw to introduce quite a few mods,and sticking to the smaller volume of oil.ultimately, its down to the fact that the fd is under engineered.
i think owners need to think of it as a service item that you budget for,much like chains /sprockets/wheel brgs.
you check the unit periodically and service when needed.:D
 
i think owners need to think of it as a service item that you budget for,much like chains /sprockets/wheel brgs.
you check the unit periodically and service when needed.:D

That's the way to think of it Mike. If you budget the same for a rebuild as you would for chains and sprockets, you won;'t go far wrong.

The main problem is that when the 1200 was launched they said it was sealed for life. Also a lot of owners just presume that the bike is indestructable and will never need working on.
 


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