R1200GSA '10 dead on LH cyl

(RIP) Bin Ridin

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Hi,

Out for weekly ride today and after 300kms of good riding, bike lost power, felt like 1 cyl only. So damn hot that I decided to limp home the last 50kms.
Checked cam alignment (reminded me of early problem with this bike) and looks perfect. Checked GS911 faults - none. Started briefly, running on rhs, lhs downpipe cold. Pulled lh main plug, cranked with plug in cap, sparking away and flames from lh cyl. replaced plug, started again, still only rh cyl, lh downpipe cold.

Had refuelled 130km b4 this happened, but rh cyl is fine so not fuel prob.

Bike has 45K kms.

Any advice or segustions welcome...thinking coil, might swap the bastards over.

Bin
 
Compression seems ok (rag stuffed in plughole) and flames make it look like fuel is there. GS911 testing injectors - clicking away. I don't have a compression tester here, might need to get one...
 
Swap the injectors over Bin

Maybe fuel Debris in the injector?

I'd maybe looking at a compression test on RH cylinder if no change

Unplug Lamda on RH and it will default to a set fueling ratio ????

Just grasping at straws here but If you have compression and You have Fuel and You have Spark ...... It Should go ????

So Blocked Fuel Line / Injector ??? = no go Plugging in an LED across the Injector wire which will flash (bulb won't work it if I remember correctly
 
Thanks for suggestions.
I think I'll have to get the dealer involved, to diagnose it and fix it. I don't like running it on 1 cyl even for testing. Suspecting low compression, maybe a valve. No noises so hopefully not a wreck in there. Watch this space....
 
Maybe remove fuel injector and place into a receptacle eg jamjar and try the injector test with 911 again?

Air filter clean?
 
Hi Pukmeister,

I plugged the plug-hole with bark and rag and cranked engine - low pressure it seemed.
suspecting burnt valve. Will get it into workshop and let you know.

Thanks again,

bin
 
Agreed, symptoms suggest lack of compression. Most likely cause is valves. Good luck with it.
 
At Dealers: LH Head was removed, piston and cyl too. No major issues with valves or seats, piston has small nibble gone at edge of crown, and there is something similar nibbled from top of cyl bore. Dealer says this is caused by detonation. Cause of lost compression not obvious, I would need to put the valves in the head and test with some petrol. RHS compression is ok. We are going for new cyl, piston, head and valves to get on road and later study exactly what is cause, maybe look for goodwill from BMW. Dealer thinks heat and maybe fuel issue. Not as conclusive as I'd like but that is the situation. Target to be repaired by end aug. Holidays here and I am away home for 2 weeks so no biggie.
 
If it runs okay once the nuts and bolts are done, perhaps it would be wise to consider a Hilltop Remap to enrich the fuelling and avoid further detonation issues?
 
I am a long way from hilltop but am considering a boosterplug for same reason - richen her up. Mind you, the exhaust has always been a touch black, and only 40mpg although at high enough speeds (avg. 105kph)
 
A quick way to check valves is to remove the spring then drop valve onto its seat and shine a bright torch down the exhaust (or inlet) port. If any light can be seen around the valve rim, the valve isn't seating. If the crescent of light moves when the valve is turned in its guide, the stem is bent.
 
Do you park it over night on the side stand? Could be a slight amount of oil seeping past the rings and causing a hot spot and detonation perhaps?
 
Bendy toy said:
A quick way to check valves is to remove the spring then drop valve onto its seat and shine a bright torch down the exhaust (or inlet) port. If any light can be seen around the valve rim, the valve isn't seating. If the crescent of light moves when the valve is turned in its guide, the stem is bent.
Click to expand...

The official way is to put a very thin smear of engineer's blue on the valve seat and rub the valve in. Any gap in the blue on the valve rim shows its bent. I did this with my Fiat cylinder head (cam belt issue) but couldn't be 100% sure. Maybe because it was possible to press a valve into the seat.

The shining torch showed that all of my exhaust valves were at least slightly bent, but all inlets were ok. 6 of the exhausts *looked* fine and four came up ok with blue.

I always park mine on side stand. The only time I got blue smoke on startup was when I had overfilled the sump.
 
This bike is almost always parked on mainstand, never ridden hard, never over-revved. Plenty of questions not yet answered. Had to get camshafts re-timed after about 1000kms when it became clear there was an issue. Did this sow a seed of leakage - unlikely to have lasted to 48K kms if it was the case.
 
Bin Ridin said:
I am a long way from hilltop but am considering a boosterplug for same reason - richen her up. Mind you, the exhaust has always been a touch black, and only 40mpg although at high enough speeds (avg. 105kph)
Click to expand...

So was mine, yet the air/fuel ratio on my 2008 GSA below 4500rpm was dangerously lean. If I understand correctly, a booster plug will only enrich under opening throttle and not steady throttle.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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