Deleted account 200417001
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Is this for the 1250? If so I will take them
R1250GS what engine bars to buy ?
- Thread starter stever1
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Is this for the 1250? If so I will take them
That was what I was trying to convey. If you want ultimate strength it Altrider all the way, if you want looks with a bit of protection it’s BMW or wunderlich, do touratech do one for the 1250 yet, they were a good compromise on the 1200 with extra rear bracing, don’t forget machineart x-heads, they work well, I have used them and tested them in a bad crash and they stood up well, but I do worry about how much stress the engine itself takes with them.
Deleted account 191119001
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for low speed/stationary drops on tarmac I found the SW motech ones worked fine 
If you have the black ones they are quite easy to touch up with a bit of filler and some satin black paint too if that matters to you. If you're riding off road then cylinder head covers help stop large rocks etc getting between the bars and holing your covers on uneven ground, not that mine will ever be in danger of that......
If you have the black ones they are quite easy to touch up with a bit of filler and some satin black paint too if that matters to you. If you're riding off road then cylinder head covers help stop large rocks etc getting between the bars and holing your covers on uneven ground, not that mine will ever be in danger of that......BonzoG
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Sorry I've just clicked this thread is for the 1250 - d'oh!
I have the blue Wunderlich bars to match the Rallye frame on my 1200. IMHO the Wunderlich design doesn't look drastically different on the new model, it still has hardly any support at the rear of the bar which is where mine have deflected in and impacted the head cover.
I had the SW-Motech bars on my last 1200 and they survived all manner of tumbles off road. They have additional bracing against the frame at the upper rear though. In hindsight I wish I'd bought them again and sent them to a paint shop instead of taking the easy option.
So the Wunderlichs Arena very good then !. Need to have a rethink.
Deleted account 191119001
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If you do go the wunderlich way, do not forget to buy the center strut, in link below.
https://www.wunderlich.de/shop/en/w...-for-engine-protection-bar-va-m26443-000.html
Ok then, after much deliberation I've decided on the Wunderlich with the support bar. I accept they may not be as good as a full set of Altrider but I do like the look of them.
fred_jb
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I haven't put the support bar on mine, and remain unconvinced about whether it is actually going to do anything in an engineering sense. I would also resent paying £39 for a piece of stainless bar and a couple of bolts, especially having costed up some parts on eBay costing about £10, which I think would do the same job.
Deleted account 191119001
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Links on the 10 quid parts please, might help some.
fred_jb
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The OEM product is a 250 mm long x 15mm wide piece of stainless steel tubing with a threaded insert pressed into each end to accept the two 8 mm bolts which secure it to the two crash bar brackets.
There are two ways to DIY this, but note that you do this entirely at your own risk!
If you have a couple of 8mm stainless bolts, and are able to drill and tap an 8 mm thread into each end of a piece of stainless bar, then I would suggest this 12mm wide x 250 mm long type:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainles...ALL-SIZE-METALS/282567223835?var=581733076353
Cost of bar £10.56
If you are not able to do this then the alternative would be to use a suitably sized piece of stainless steel tube. To secure this you could run a piece of M8 threaded stainless steel rod through the tube and cut to length such that it projects far enough out of each crash bar bracket to accept a stainless steel locking nut. To tidy it up a black plastic nut cover could be put over the nut on each side. It might be necessary to cut a slot in one end of the threaded rod to allow the use of a flat bladed screwdriver to stop the rod from rotating while doing up the nuts. If the tube is a little loose even after tightening the nuts, then a stainless washer could be added at each end between tube and bracket as a spacer.
(Tip: put an M8 nut on the section of rod you are keeping, before cutting off the excess. Removing this nut will then clean up the threads damaged by the cutting, making it easier to put the locking nut on.)
I already have the nuts, plastic nut covers and washers, but have added those to the following list of bits in case you don't:
250 mm tube: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1pc-Silv...ube-12mm-OD-10mm-ID-250mm-Length/392266172886
300 mm x M8 threaded rod: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-A2-St...-Allthread-Stud/272080459684?var=570890403786
Stainless M8 nuts: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M2-M2-5-...YLOCK-LOCK-NUTS/320901621860?var=510063390508
Nut covers: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M5-M6-M8...-Caps-Cover-Hex/161319324291?var=460349179708
Stainless M8 washers: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M4-M5-M6...-FORM-C-WASHERS/221017647548?var=520086449280
Total cost of all bits: £12.51
Users of this forum don't seem that keen on DIY generally, but I hope that is useful to someone!
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fred_jb
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Certainly useful............thx.....
Actually think I've found a simpler way to do this by hammering some threaded stainless steel rivnuts into the ends of the piece of stainless tube so that it can take a couple of bolts in the same way as the original. These need to to be a tight fit into the tube, but not so tight that I can't get them to go in, so it all depends on the dimensions being just right.
Might give it a try and report back.
Why bother with this faffing about, just buy the Touratech ones, they have all the bracing designed into it in the first place.
hatzyian
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I've got the Hepco and Becker engine bars on my 1200. Had a standing still drop, scratches on the bar, but they didn't move or deform.
fred_jb
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For anyone intending to do this then please note that the tube needs to be longer than 250 mm, even though that is the stated size of the OEM product. The gap between the brackets on my bars is about 268 mm.
fred_jb
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Finally got the right bits to complete the alternative low cost reinforcing bar. I bought a 300mm piece of stainless tube and used a couple of M6 rivnuts to create threaded inserts in each end. I found the best method was to compress the rivnut to get the collapsible section to start bulging out just enough that it no longer slid into the end of the tube, and then hammer it into the tube end. I ended up buying a kit with a selection of different sized rivnuts and the proper tool for fitting them as I had other uses for this. Normally they go into sheet material and you use the tool to fully bulge out the collapsible section on the reverse side of the sheet to lock the rivnut in place.
For this application I think it would be possible to not use the tool by just fitting a bolt into the threaded section from the non-flange side, then placing the flange side onto a hard surface and tapping the bolt head until the rivnut starts to bulge out, after which the bolt can be taken out and the rivnut hammered into the end of the tube. The parts required are as follows and cost about £10 if you don't buy the tool as well.
300mm stainless tube:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainles...var=660899904748&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
M6 rivnuts only:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rivnuts-...hash=item3b02984d5c:m:mTrIaSqBoM7dLwZldLGkmzg
(Note - these are not the ones I used, but should be better as they are stainless steel not zinc plated.)
Rivnut plus tool kit:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Nut...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
You will also need a couple of M6 bolts and washers. I used a washer on one end of the tube as well as under each bolt head because it ended up being a slightly loose fit.
Fitting instructions here: https://www.wunderlich.de/shop/data/23090/dateien/23090-15937.pdf
Some pics below:
Rivnut ready to go into end of tube
Rivnut in place
Completed and fitted
For this application I think it would be possible to not use the tool by just fitting a bolt into the threaded section from the non-flange side, then placing the flange side onto a hard surface and tapping the bolt head until the rivnut starts to bulge out, after which the bolt can be taken out and the rivnut hammered into the end of the tube. The parts required are as follows and cost about £10 if you don't buy the tool as well.
300mm stainless tube:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainles...var=660899904748&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
M6 rivnuts only:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rivnuts-...hash=item3b02984d5c:m:mTrIaSqBoM7dLwZldLGkmzg
(Note - these are not the ones I used, but should be better as they are stainless steel not zinc plated.)
Rivnut plus tool kit:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Nut...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
You will also need a couple of M6 bolts and washers. I used a washer on one end of the tube as well as under each bolt head because it ended up being a slightly loose fit.
Fitting instructions here: https://www.wunderlich.de/shop/data/23090/dateien/23090-15937.pdf
Some pics below:
Rivnut ready to go into end of tube
Rivnut in place
Completed and fitted
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