R80/7 ATE front brake binding.

[Teamin]

My bike has not been ridden for about 18 months (I had an operation on my shoulder)
The front brake is binding and will just about let me move the bike with some force.
From memory, ATE brakes are known to be difficult to set up.
I am thinking a strip down and clean, and failing that, a service kit replacement.

Any tips, videos, or advice would be much appreciated.

 

[DrFarkoff]

the main thing is getting the Pivot free and the pads as square to the disc as possible

And of course the ability to squeeze the piston back in without excessive force

What hoses are fitted ?? Rubber?

 

[Teamin]

the main thing is getting the Pivot free and the pads as square to the disc as possible

And of course the ability to squeeze the piston back in without excessive force

What hoses are fitted ?? Rubber?

Yes they are rubber, I was thinking of changing to braided. What do you think?

 

[DrFarkoff]

Yes they are rubber, I was thinking of changing to braided. What do you think?

If they are over 15 years old?? Then they can swell internally and turn into a one way valve not releasing pressure back to the master

 

[Gelandestrasse]

To adjust - this is my method:

Assuming all the brake components are working and in good condition and the systems is bled…

Remove one caliper and chock the pads so you don’t pop the piston. Undo the cap nut so you can get access to the slot in the pivot of the other caliper. Big flat screwdriver.
Operate the brake lever a few times to get the pads touching the disc. Let go of the lever and spin the wheel. If the brake binds, adjust the pivot (by turning it with the flat screwdriver) so that it binds less or not at all. Operate the brake lever again and go back round the process until the front wheel spins the best it can. Replace the cap nut.
Refit the other caliper and go through the same procedure, trying to get the front wheel to spin as free as possible. Refit the cap nut.

The theory is that if the wheel spins freely the pads are parallel to the disc, which is best for performance. Hope this helps.

 

[Teamin]

If they are over 15 years old?? Then they can swell internally and turn into a one way valve not releasing pressure back to the master

Every day is a school day. I will order them up tonight.

 

[Teamin]

To adjust - this is my method:

Assuming all the brake components are working and in good condition and the systems is bled…

Remove one caliper and chock the pads so you don’t pop the piston. Undo the cap nut so you can get access to the slot in the pivot of the other caliper. Big flat screwdriver.
Operate the brake lever a few times to get the pads touching the disc. Let go of the lever and spin the wheel. If the brake binds, adjust the pivot (by turning it with the flat screwdriver) so that it binds less or not at all. Operate the brake lever again and go back round the process until the front wheel spins the best it can. Replace the cap nut.
Refit the other caliper and go through the same procedure, trying to get the front wheel to spin as free as possible. Refit the cap nut.

The theory is that if the wheel spins freely the pads are parallel to the disc, which is best for performance. Hope this helps.

Brilliant, thank you.

 

[Teamin]

If they are over 15 years old?? Then they can swell internally and turn into a one way valve not releasing pressure back to the master

Ok hoses replaced and bled.
Front wheel now locked solid.
Looks like callipers off and check their condition.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Ok hoses replaced and bled.
Front wheel now locked solid.
Looks like callipers off and check their condition.

I thought you were doing that anyway

You want everything as free moving as possible, before you start tightening things up again !! (Pads as square as poss onto disc!! )

You could just change out for later forks and brembo callipers / discs and have more serviceable brakes

You may well find that old brake fluid and seals had a party and things swelled up

 

[Teamin]

I thought you were doing that anyway

You want everything as free moving as possible, before you start tightening things up again !! (Pads as square as poss onto disc!! )

You could just change out for later forks and brembo callipers / discs and have more serviceable brakes

You may well find that old brake fluid and seals had a party and things swelled up

I was going to take the callipers off and then thought I would just try the hoses first.
I will take them off and find out what I need to order.

It would be easier to swap the forks and callipers, but I was happy with the current performance and want to keep the bike as origional as possible.

It has been awhile since I fettled with bikes and looking forward to getting back into it.
As always, I greatly appreciate your advice.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Main Brakey things for Stroke 6 stroke 7 Airheads Linky

You want that calliper to swivel on that Pivot pin number 3 really freely

Part 12 (on the parts list) is the Piston, Seal and Dustcap (I recommend to get them from Hurst and don't end up with a pattern part!) You just need to know if its a 38mm piston or a 40mm one

 

[Gelandestrasse]

I suspect they are locked because of the swivel pin (3). Turn it around and you should see the caliber moving in and out.

 

[Teamin]

I suspect they are locked because of the swivel pin (3). Turn it around and you should see the caliber moving in and out.

Thanks, I should get time tomorrow night in the shed.

 

[Teamin]

I thinks it has been a combination of both the swivel pin, pot rusted and the seals.
I forgot to take a photo of the swivel pin.
New kit will be ordered tomorrow.

 

[Teamin]

All set and ready to fit...when I get the time.