R80ST

[donkeydoo]

Yep another basic dumb question if I may.

Just puts some fuel in the ST and you wont believe it but she fired up after 3 years dormant.

But having never run it before on the center stand I noticed that when running in Neutral the back wheel was turning very slowly, if I put my boot against it it would stop. Is this normal as I assume that if the rear was on the ground it would have no effect?

Cheers again all

 

[Gelandestrasse]

Normal. Hope you have changed the various oils?

 

[donkeydoo]

Normal. Hope you have changed the various oils?

thank you...yep all oils changed,waiting for new master cylinder for front brake, but in the meantime have gotten a used one from germany which is in remarkably good condition with the throttle and lever etc so may fit that. need to balance the carbs

 

[barny]

Yep another basic dumb question if I may.

Just puts some fuel in the ST and you wont believe it but she fired up after 3 years dormant.

But having never run it before on the center stand I noticed that when running in Neutral the back wheel was turning very slowly, if I put my boot against it it would stop. Is this normal as I assume that if the rear was on the ground it would have no effect?

Cheers again all

Its just drag from the clutch. If it stops when just touch it with your foot and there's no load on its just drag. If not check the clutch cable and gearbox end lever clearance.

 

[donkeydoo]

Cheers all. Not rushing to ride it as hope to get historic registration in July.

 

[SBD]

Its just drag from the clutch. If it stops when just touch it with your foot and there's no load on its just drag. If not check the clutch cable and gearbox end lever clearance.

Surely the clutch was out so fully engaged. It’s drag in the gearbox, and I’d say perfectly normal.

 

[barny]

Surely the clutch was out so fully engaged. It’s drag in the gearbox, and I’d say perfectly normal.

How does the motion get from the engine to the gearbox? via the clutch?

 

[Gelandestrasse]

Its just drag from the clutch. If it stops when just touch it with your foot and there's no load on its just drag. If not check the clutch cable and gearbox end lever clearance.

It isn't drag from the clutch. Clutch drag is a completely different phenomenon. Big word.

The engine turns the input shaft of the gearbox while the clutch is engaged (ie left alone, lever at rest). The input shaft turns gears on the lay/intermediate shaft all the time. The churning of all that oil, helped by its viscosity, helps turn the output shaft despite a gear not being selected. The output shaft is connected positively to the rear wheel via the output flange, shaft and the bevel gears.

Clutch drag is when you go to disengage the clutch (pull the lever in) but it doesn't fully disengage. Principally due to maladjustment but there are other reasons. Hopefully when you pull the clutch in, you separate the engine drive to input shaft of the gearbox.

Forgive me if that was teaching granny to suck eggs.

 

[Bubb]

If the bike turns 40 in July, you won’t be able to get it registered as historic until after April 1st next year.

The rear wheel turning slowly is normal….. don’t worry about it.

Post pics of your new (old) bike please.
My ST is FAR from standard….but I love it

 

[donkeydoo]

It isn't drag from the clutch. Clutch drag is a completely different phenomenon. Big word.

The engine turns the input shaft of the gearbox while the clutch is engaged (ie left alone, lever at rest). The input shaft turns gears on the lay/intermediate shaft all the time. The churning of all that oil, helped by its viscosity, helps turn the output shaft despite a gear not being selected. The output shaft is connected positively to the rear wheel via the output flange, shaft and the bevel gears.

Clutch drag is when you go to disengage the clutch (pull the lever in) but it doesn't fully disengage. Principally due to maladjustment but there are other reasons. Hopefully when you pull the clutch in, you separate the engine drive to input shaft of the gearbox.

Forgive me if that was teaching granny to suck eggs.

Thank you

 

[barny]

It isn't drag from the clutch. Clutch drag is a completely different phenomenon. Big word.

The engine turns the input shaft of the gearbox while the clutch is engaged (ie left alone, lever at rest). The input shaft turns gears on the lay/intermediate shaft all the time. The churning of all that oil, helped by its viscosity, helps turn the output shaft despite a gear not being selected. The output shaft is connected positively to the rear wheel via the output flange, shaft and the bevel gears.

Clutch drag is when you go to disengage the clutch (pull the lever in) but it doesn't fully disengage. Principally due to maladjustment but there are other reasons. Hopefully when you pull the clutch in, you separate the engine drive to input shaft of the gearbox.

Forgive me if that was teaching granny to suck eggs.

SBD
You are correct I was forgetting the clutch would have been engaged.

 

[donkeydoo]

If the bike turns 40 in July, you won’t be able to get it registered as historic until after April 1st next year.

The rear wheel turning slowly is normal….. don’t worry about it.

Post pics of your new (old) bike please.
My ST is FAR from standard….but I love it

Am I right that after it is 40 I dont need an MOT but need to tax it till next April

 

[Bubb]

Once it is historic you do not need an mot, but it needs one before it becomes historic.
After it is historic you still need to tax it, but it costs nothing.

Mot and tax it now so you can use it til next year. The 40 years for historic status is 40 years after registration, and then the April 1st after this…… so if it was registered 1st May, it won’t be made historic until it is 40 years and 11 months.

Hope that makes sense, as I’m not sure I have described it perfectly.

I just re taxed my old triumph ( historic) online, cost = £0.00.

 

[donkeydoo]

Once it is historic you do not need an mot, but it needs one before it becomes historic.
After it is historic you still need to tax it, but it costs nothing.

Mot and tax it now so you can use it til next year. The 40 years for historic status is 40 years after registration, and then the April 1st after this…… so if it was registered 1st May, it won’t be made historic until it is 40 years and 11 months.

Hope that makes sense, as I’m not sure I have described it perfectly.

I just re taxed my old triumph ( historic) online, cost = £0.00.

thank you , I now understand as even the gov website doesnt make it clear.

 

[donkeydoo]

pic of the old girl

 

[Bubb]

That looks nice and original.
(Apart from it shouldn’t have fork gaiters….but I’m being pedantic) bike looks like it has been well cared for and will give you lots of fun…..

Get it insured, taxed, and put on the road…….

 

[mikeyboy]

Up to you of course,
If it was mine,now it’s been run a bit,I’d drop the oil then remove the sump and clean out the sludge that would have settled out of the oil over the years it’s been stood.
If there is a build up of sludge it will get pulled up through the oil pump and could cause big problems

 

[donkeydoo]

Up to you of course,
If it was mine,now it’s been run a bit,I’d drop the oil then remove the sump and clean out the sludge that would have settled out of the oil over the years it’s been stood.
If there is a build up of sludge it will get pulled up through the oil pump and could cause big problems

Thank you. Going to get an MOT and then will drop the oil again as have notice a slight weep from the sump gasket.

 

[donkeydoo]

That looks nice and original.
(Apart from it shouldn’t have fork gaiters….but I’m being pedantic) bike looks like it has been well cared for and will give you lots of fun…..

Get it insured, taxed, and put on the road…….

Yep a darn sight easier moving this around than the old 1100GS

 

[scooter paul]

Thank you. Going to get an MOT and then will drop the oil again as have notice a slight weep from the sump gasket.

Often not the gasket but the oil pressure light switch. The inner core separates from the steel outer causing a drip. Or pushrod tube rubbers.