Rabaconda not suitable for tyres fitted with a mousse.

You can do tubed, tubeless and mousses with the original rabaconda. Some tubeless can’t be difficult to break the bead.
You can’t do cross spoked wheels because of how the supports sit.

Certain mousses are bastards to do on the original changer anyway.
But contrary to the picture above - you can do mousses on the street changer.
Thanks for the info.
I fitted my first ever mousse recently ( a Michelin BIB into a front tracker) a bit of a struggle but I only had three 10” levers, plus I haven’t done many tyre changes at all.
All things considered, it was easier than I imagined after hearing how difficult mousses are to fit.
Santa brought a set of five Rabaconda levers so I might just wait and see how easy they make it.
 
Thanks for the info.
I fitted my first ever mousse recently ( a Michelin BIB into a front tracker) a bit of a struggle but I only had three 10” levers, plus I haven’t done many tyre changes at all.
All things considered, it was easier than I imagined after hearing how difficult mousses are to fit.
Santa brought a set of five Rabaconda levers so I might just wait and see how easy they make it.

The extra leverage is a game changer.
Learn to get FOUR in when you first roll the bead over the rim.
 
And the differently shaped ends for removal and refitting.
The “Michelin style” levers are by and far better than the standard ones.
There’s a trick with them for dropping the second bead off once you’ve flipped the wheel as well
 

Initial top bead off.
Flip wheel.
Then feed the curved end down between th rim and the tyre so the hook locates onto the rim as you lever down. The curve helps it drop into the well of the rim. This opens the first bit of the bead off the rim.
Then push the lever arm down onto the wall of the tyre which then pushes the bead off the rim.
Only takes 4-5 bites and the tyre is off and on the floor.
 
Thanks for the info.
I fitted my first ever mousse recently ( a Michelin BIB into a front tracker) a bit of a struggle but I only had three 10” levers, plus I haven’t done many tyre changes at all.
All things considered, it was easier than I imagined after hearing how difficult mousses are to fit.
Santa brought a set of five Rabaconda levers so I might just wait and see how easy they make it.
I’ve done mousses a few times in the last 12mths and they improved my technique each time. The main issue I’ve had was getting the tyre to go back into its bead, due to a combination of lube on the tyre bead and the wheel or not being able to get air in fast enough to push the tyre bead out to the rim. I thought about it and figured a bicycle inner tube would seat like a rim tape and inflating it would seat the bead and prevent the mousses from filling the wheel well and going soft.
 
I looked at Rabaconda and liked them a lot, but can’t justify the price tag. I also needed something that didn’t need me stooping over to work it. Looking at the best video demos of mx changers, I saw a pattern that most tended to be using a similar style of changer and it wasn’t a Rabaconda.

I posted a link to mine in the bargains forum as it was only £50 at the time. Even at £85, it’s still great vfm…

View attachment 470403
I too was looking at a Proworks one and thought this may be a good cheap solution.
https://www.24mx.co.uk/product/proworks-tyre-machine_pid-HDS-14?nosto=is-pdp-category-cross-sale-b
 
I too was looking at a Proworks one and thought this may be a good cheap solution.
https://www.24mx.co.uk/product/proworks-tyre-machine_pid-HDS-14?nosto=is-pdp-category-cross-sale-b
Benefit with a dirt Rabaconda (can’t say for a street version) that its design is better than the rest and when using it, every bracket & tab is exactly where you need it
The guys have really thought about how they have designed it - nothing in the wrong place
£400
Well worth it

Have a good look at the picture, zoom in and look at all the tabs, especially either side of the pivot bolt, where you hook the levers under to hold the tyre in the well, whilst working opposite with the other levers or wedge etc

IMG_1049.webp
 
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Benefit with a dirt Rabaconda (can’t say for a street version) that its design is better than the rest and when using it, every bracket & tab is exactly where you need it
The guys have really thought about how they have designed it - nothing in the wrong place
£400
Well worth it

Have a good look at the picture, zoom in and look at all the tabs, especially either side of the pivot bolt, where you hook the levers under to hold the tyre in the well, whilst working opposite with the other levers or wedge etc

View attachment 470958
If I was being critical, I'd say the loops for hooking a tyre lever in and pushing the rim lock back don't really work.

I could be doing it wrong though :)
 
I’ve done mousses a few times in the last 12mths and they improved my technique each time. The main issue I’ve had was getting the tyre to go back into its bead, due to a combination of lube on the tyre bead and the wheel or not being able to get air in fast enough to push the tyre bead out to the rim. I thought about it and figured a bicycle inner tube would seat like a rim tape and inflating it would seat the bead and prevent the mousses from filling the wheel well and going soft.
I fit a tyre valve to the rim, like a normal tubeless type.

Once everything is fitted an the tyre just needs seating, make sure the receiver on your compressor is full, make sure there’s no valve in the valve stem and fill up with air.

Obvs. the air leaks out but 9/10 times it pops the bead to the rim. If it doesn’t it may just not be seated right.

This also has the advantage that to a cursory glance by Plod it looks like there’s an inner tube.
 
I NEVER fit a mousse without a tubeless valve or an old inner tube valve cut out and trimmed.(depends if they are paying for the valve or not).
As bove - valve core out and don't use an inflator - best by far is a blow gun with a short nose and a length of fuel pipe on the end.
Fit that onto the valve and let it rip.
 
Also...remove the rim lock nut, fit an 8mm rubber grommet or similar and replace nut finger tight before applying the air line. Remove when the tyre is seated obvs.

Makes a huge difference IME. Most of the air loss comes past the rim lock.

Edit: As recommended above. use a blow gun not an inflator. I don't bother with the fuel pipe, just press the nozzle onto the valve stem with no valve core.
 
I fit a tyre valve to the rim, like a normal tubeless type.

Once everything is fitted an the tyre just needs seating, make sure the receiver on your compressor is full, make sure there’s no valve in the valve stem and fill up with air.

Obvs. the air leaks out but 9/10 times it pops the bead to the rim. If it doesn’t it may just not be seated right.

This also has the advantage that to a cursory glance by Plod it looks like there’s an inner tube.
This usually works but I’ve had problems fitting an 80/100 (narrower) front tyre where the mousse lube that’s left behind gets into the bead and it slips back off. I had a rear that just wouldn’t seal enough to get any pressure inside at all, so I now have a tyre cannon for any really tough ones.
Also...remove the rim lock nut, fit an 8mm rubber grommet or similar and replace nut finger tight before applying the air line. Remove when the tyre is seated obvs.

Makes a huge difference IME. Most of the air loss comes past the rim lock.

Edit: As recommended above. use a blow gun not an inflator. I don't bother with the fuel pipe, just press the nozzle onto the valve stem with no valve core.
This is a fantastic bit of feedback/suggestion. I’d noticed that the rim lock was the biggest leak point.

This guy and a couple of similar videos made using the taller changing stand look much easier than my big Sealey jobbie. The bead buddy was also a revelation and the technique was what sold it for me. I’ve also seen them doing mousses with a rabaconda and can see the benefits, but leaning over it and £400 are the big obstacles for me.

 
Takes a bit longer than three minutes but pretty straightforward with two rim locks Michelin BIB Mousse and medium enduro tyre. Beaded without air just a bit of bouncing.

IMG_1376.jpeg
 


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