Re-spoking GS paralever front wheel

Kenny

Kenny

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Just a numpty sort of question.

My spokes on the front 21" of my GSPD are OK but maybe willing to bling them up with some stainless replacement jobbies:bounce1
Is it possible to remove one spoke at a time and screw in replacement ( about 7 ft/lbs torque) opposite each other until all done?
It would save the proverbal wait (and excessive postal charges ) from some of the wheel builders.
Anyone done this themselves? ( I know the back wheel is offset but front wheel is standard configuration)

:beerjug:
 
i could do with stripping down my wheel so i could get them to shin again.

i read some were people you bolt cutter to get the old sprokes off .
 
If you decide to send it to a wheelbuilder,be prepared to wait,Hagon have had my 990 wheels for five weeks now:eek:so if you go that route do it now or your summer riding could be a late starter.......
 
cherokee said:
If you decide to send it to a wheelbuilder,be prepared to wait,Hagon have had my 990 wheels for five weeks now:eek:so if you go that route do it now or your summer riding could be a late starter.......
Click to expand...

... and some famous wheelbuilder chaps in Wales did a wheel for a mate of mine's Cagiva Elefant - took a while and they got the offset all wrong :(
 
rustspokes.jpg


Here's mine. I also thought of doing that - replacing them one spoke at a time. When I enquired about doing that online every man & his dog replied not to do it as they are a bugger to get right.
This put me off as well as I was unsure whether I was going to replace the frontend with some YZ forks. I will keep the stock shocks now as I find them great. I also want to powdercoat my rims black. But that's enough about me.

If you do go ahead then please let us know how you get on. Not having any experience lacing wheels I can't see too many probs.
 
Kenny said:
Just a numpty sort of question.

My spokes on the front 21" of my GSPD are OK but maybe willing to bling them up with some stainless replacement jobbies:bounce1
Is it possible to remove one spoke at a time and screw in replacement ( about 7 ft/lbs torque) opposite each other until all done?
It would save the proverbal wait (and excessive postal charges ) from some of the wheel builders.
Anyone done this themselves? ( I know the back wheel is offset but front wheel is standard configuration)

:beerjug:
Click to expand...


Kenny, you can swap individual spokes. However: It'll be a batid of a job and probably wont end up how you're expecting it too either.
:rob Your best bet is to loosen (assuming none are seized) all the spokes right back to about two threads first. This will make it much easier to change them over. Be careful not to bend any though, you'll never get them straight again. :blast

Don't try adjusting or tightening anything till they are all swapped over.

The tourque setting is a guide so somewhere close will do. What is important though is that you get the wheel true. This won't be too difficult because the rims so stiff anyway.

Tip: When it's all loose you could check to see if the rim is true before you start to tension the spokes.

Another Tip: Each time you put tension on spoke, back it off a quater turn. Enen if it's not tight yet. This will take out any torsion you put in the spoke when you tightened it. Toursioned spokes will realese as the wheel is used and leave those spokes loose or at least the rim slightly out of true. Do this throughout the build to keep things consistant. Not a big issue with such heavy weight wheels, but if you're going to do it you might as well do it propperly :thumb2


Val.
 
Just for reference,Hagon are re-spoking both my 990 wheels with polished stainless spokes and anodised nipples,for £300,which when i checked around was about the going rate,and to be honest im thinking this is a job best left to experts......
 
Good thread.

I'm just in the process of rebuilding the wheels of my ST.

Getting the wheels to pieces:

STOP - Take photographs, sketch out the spoke pattern. In my case looking n/s on, R,L,R,L in blocks of 4. Spoke lengths measured and equal length on both sides of the hub. Front and rear followed the same pattern.

Used bolt cutters to cut odd spokes in order to reduce 'stress' in the rim.
The nipples were corroded into the holes in the hubs, the worst being the rear. Had to use a drift to 'punch' them out.

So in answer to the OP question about replacing 1 at a time - I think that would be quite difficult. Also, you would still need to check the wheel for run out.

Had the hubs vapour blasted. Each hole in the hub and rim was 'cleaned out' using a drill of the correct diameter of the spoke/nipple. Even after blasting, this process removed 'burrs' and corrosion still remaining down the hole. MB for stainless spokes. Used 500 g wet and dry wet followed by 1200 g followed by solvol on the rims. Good result after a lot of effort.

I had already made my mind up to do the whole rebuilding job myself having used CWC in the past for Brit bike wheels.

I've built many bicycle wheels in the past, and felt comfortable to tackle the BMW wheels.

The lacing up was easy following the sketch and photographs. Copper slip on the spoke threads and under the nipple head. Once the spokes were hand tightened, I then used a cordless drill/driver set to mid range on the torque settings - whatever that equates to in lb/f (or Nm). The nipples were all about equal on the threads with about 4 - 5 threads showing. (Looking at the photographs, this was the approximate general position of the nipples from the original build).

An e-bay purchase was made - wheel balancer, which I have 'modified' to a truing jig by using magnetic DTI (clock) stand. Using 2 with rods as markers (with tubing over the ends to prevent scratching of the polished rims), I have been able to adjust for roundness/ovality and side to side run out.

Each spoke was tapped with the spoke key and all appeared to have the same 'ring'.
Difficult to tell really - An engineer I am, but a musician I am not!

So, the results

Starting from the rim that had run out of 1/4":

Roundness - 0.020" (0.5mm).
Run out - 0.035" (0.9mm).

Anybody care to comment on the results - Should I be achieving better figures, or will the tyre 'absorb' this and give a greater ovality and run out if measured on the outer circumference of the tyre?


IMAG0094.jpg


Shows the magnetic base holding the rod, with rubber tube on the end for comparing roundness.
 
dr nosh said:
Each spoke was tapped with the spoke key and all appeared to have the same 'ring'.
Difficult to tell really - An engineer I am, but a musician I am not!
Click to expand...

An electronic guitar tuner may be of use for this. They are relatively inexpensive.

As to what key or note to tune to........................:confused: :D
 
Getting the tension equal in only part of the battle - all spokes should be similar, but the bit that really matters is whether the wheel runs true, both axially and radially.

When I got my 1150, the front wheel was way out of true. By losening all the spokes off then tightening them in turn it was possible to pull the wheel back into true. The resulting runout was within tolerance but the spokes weren't evenly tensioned.

I did consider taking the spokes out and replacing them but although the nipples in the hub were loose, the spokes were well and trully stuck in the rims and despite a tap with a hammer and drift they weren't budging, so the old spokes stayed.
 
These figures are probably close enough - if you check the tyre after it is fitted you will find that it will be a long way out anyway.

I spent an age getting my BSA B44 to within 10 thou, front single sided drum with 1" offset was a pig, only to find that the tyre wasn't within 3/16"anyway!
 
Roundness - 0.020" (0.5mm).
Run out - 0.035" (0.9mm).

Didnt think about this earlier, but just checked the Haynes manual.

They quote 'roundness' as 'radial' at 0.5 mm , so ok there, but 'run out' as 'lateral' at 0.2 mm.
Looks like a bit more fine adjustment required.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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