Rear Brake Lever

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Hi guys

I have owned my GS for the past 3 weeks or so and love it to bits .

My only gripe up to press is the rear brake lever, my foot has to be nearly 160 degrees to fully engage the rear brake . I know they are linked but like old school I always use the rear brake at any traffic lights/stopping etc.


Since mine is the 04 GS 1200 it has ABS and servo brakes and fully understand that if you use only the rear brake you shut up that stupid wining from the servo when fully engaged.

So, is there a way of raising the biting point of the rear brake at all? I have looked through the owners manual and cannot find anything.

Bear in mind I am useless at anything mechanical and don't even own a tool kit, just the mobile phone.

Your help in this matter would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
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[Owen Snell]

I couldn't find this in the manual either when I wanted to lower the pedal after fitting lower pegs. If you are useless with spanners, get someone along to help or go to your BMW dealer and get them to do it for you.

The pedal height is controlled by a screw near the front of the pedal that rests on the servo micro switch, holding it closed. Release the lock nut and adjust to suit.

If you adjust the position of the pedal, it is likely that the actuating rod that goes into the rear brake master cylinder will also need adjusting. Again, release the lock nut and adjust. You will have to do this by feel until the operation seems correct. As above, if you are not confident about this in any way, get advice or get BMW to do it for you.

If the pedal height is OK but the action is a bit 'long' before it bites, then it may just be the adjustment of the rear brake master cylinder rod that needs doing.

Remember to do up the lock nuts when finished and go for a test ride.

 

[Format]

I couldn't find this in the manual either when I wanted to lower the pedal after fitting lower pegs. If you are useless with spanners, get someone along to help or go to your BMW dealer and get them to do it for you.

The pedal height is controlled by a screw near the front of the pedal that rests on the servo micro switch, holding it closed. Release the lock nut and adjust to suit.

If you adjust the position of the pedal, it is likely that the actuating rod that goes into the rear brake master cylinder will also need adjusting. Again, release the lock nut and adjust. You will have to do this by feel until the operation seems correct. As above, if you are not confident about this in any way, get advice or get BMW to do it for you.

If the pedal height is OK but the action is a bit 'long' before it bites, then it may just be the adjustment of the rear brake master cylinder rod that needs doing.

Remember to do up the lock nuts when finished and go for a test ride.

Pedal height is fine mate as you so correctly state it is the master cylinder that needs adjusting.

What do I need to adjust, a simple lock nut or leave it to the professionals?

 

[Johnny Davies]

Don't expect to be locking the rear wheel on the road on your GS! When I bought mine (05 vintage) I had to stand on the the rear pedal to lock the back on the road. If you are using the brake to 'drag brake' at traffic lights, then it mibht be worth tryng to kick the old skool habit and embrace the engine braking method of the boxer!

Cheers
Johnny

 

[Pukmeister]

I bought a Touratech (or maybe Wunderlich) brake pedal extender shortly after buying my GS. They are money well spent, the standard rear brake pedal is pathetically small and awkward to operate without one.

Edit: It's the same as the one for sale here:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182783

 

[GSband]

... Since mine is the 04 GS 1200 it has ABS and servo brakes and fully understand that if you use only the rear brake you shut up that stupid whining from the servo when fully engaged. ...

The whining stops, but if you use the brake pedal on brake assisted GS's there definitely is an electric pump building up brake pressure for the rear brake... it's just not that loud ...

 

[Owen Snell]

Pedal height is fine mate as you so correctly state it is the master cylinder that needs adjusting.

What do I need to adjust, a simple lock nut or leave it to the professionals?

If you operate the brake lever by hand with the engine off, you will feel the free play between the pedal rest position and the point where you can feel the resistance from the hydraulics in the master cylinder. I adjusted mine so that there is only a small amount of free play before the cylinder is operated by the pedal. Release the lock nut and adjust the rod to change the free play.

 

[Brian ROSEN]

Use the system provided

".....Bear in mind I am useless at anything mechanical and don't even own a tool kit, just the mobile phone...."
As the brakes are linked it is really much simpler to forget about the rear brake pedal ( except holding the bike at rest on a hill while you sort out the gears.) - use it only when you have to be very delicate - rain, ice, loose gravel etc; but even then the ABS should take care of everything.
I had a car once with pedal operating back brakes, lever operating another set of pads on back brakes and no front brakes! It seemed logical at the time no doubt (it was a 1923 RR) Later on brakes were linked and it took bikes about 60 - 70 years to catch up.