Rear Brake pads & Disc - check em regular !

[WindyChuffer]

@les96. Your Service Manager is talking bollocks. Been riding 1200's since '04; I consistently had about 13K miles out of the rear pads on the Hexhead but on the WC am getting 4K. The only thing that has changed is the bike.

 

[Myke Rocks]

The pedal operates back brake only. But brake system always applies a percentage of back brake with the fronts. That's why rear ABS kicks in so easily when using fronts and pedal.
Motorworks told me these are the options
HH pads all round - OK
Standard pads all round - OK
HH front with standard rear - OK
HH back with standard front - NOT OK
HH in back with standard in front will overbrake the back end. So maybe standard in back with HH in front will minimise rear brake wear.

Motorworks are good, but sometimes they get it wrong too.
A HH pad requires heavier pressure than a shit pad to give the same braking power when cold. When hot, pressures are similar, though the HH pad still requires slightly more pressure.
However, when the HH pad is really hot, it continues to work, unlike the shit pad, which fades.
HH pads I always fit in the rear, simply because they last the same time as a rear tyre, which the standard pads never do.
Fronts: Don't really care on well braked bikes like BMW or similar. The chances of me fading the brakes on the front are minimal because of riding style, though I usually fit HH, and they last over 35,000 miles.
The problem I re-iterate, is shit design by BMW to increase servicing revenue.
Myke

 

[Clifton]

Random thoughts. It just seems odd that so many are having their rear pads vaporize early while many others are not having this occur? Is it build date related? IOW has BMW used different types of pads on model year 2013-2015 GS/GSA's? Mine is an early 14 GSA manufactured in November 13 and as far as I can determine my rear pads look like they should go 30,000 miles or so. Are bikes out in the wet a lot, maybe near coastal salt air having more problems from something like corrosion on the sliders? Just asking if some pads are hanging up and dragging. Brake technique has been mentioned and obviously being linked the rears get used a lot. Personally even on bikes w/o linked brakes I use only the front unless panic stopping which is only 1% of the time. Naturally touching the rear only when making a U-turn or slowing on wet grass but that is so seldom and speeds are so low that wouldn't contribute to wear. Right or wrong how I brake on my GSA is a good portion of slowing comes from engine braking and down shifting then front only, even for a panic stop as it applies rear on it's own. The only time I ever touch the rear pedal is the above mentioned low speed U-turn, grass, etc.

On a related note when changing brake fluid I vac'd out the front calipers then finished with a few pumps at the lever then vac'd the rear caliper followed by a few prods on the pedal. Being linked I then tried to purge out fluid from the rear caliper by using the front lever but that didn't do a thing. I tried again with the ignition on still nothing, I did not start it though. Can someone explain how one bleeds the fluid from the front master cylinder that goes to the rear caliper?

 

[trebor]

Just had mine service today at 6,300 miles. There is 2 mm left on the rear pads, according to the service desk the pads are just over 4mm when new, and to pass MOT they must have at least 1mm. So theoretically I should have a shade under 3,000 miles left in the pads. However, apparently as the pads get lower they do wear quicker, which I can believe as the same seems to happen with tyres , so I may only get 2,000 miles max out of the remainder. Since the brakes could save my life, I'm not going to fanny around, I'm going to get the pads replaced when I go back in 2 or 3 weeks for some warranty work.

It is disappointing that they wear this quickly, my 2008 GS and 2010 GSA both lasted about 18,000 miles, but I believe this quicker wear is due to the type of material used in the pads, as mentioned elsewhere on these forums. I did ask about using other vendors pads, such as EBC, but was advised that if non BMW parts were used then the warranty on the disks (not sure about calipers) would not be valid.

Bob

 

[Iced Tiger]

Well I checked my brake pads today before I set off to work. Not much left on the back, possibly less than 1 mm. Fronts look to have about 2~3 mm left on them. The bike has only done 4.2k from new, never touched the back brake pedal, always used the front due to the link between them. Going to order some EBC HH in the morning, hope those will last a little longer.

 

[chrisjk]

This thread reminded me to check mine - good job I did, there was just a smear of pad left on one of the pair and about 1mm on the other. Mileage is 7500 bike is a GSA 1 year old. I have replaced them with sintered, which I guess should last longer, just hope they don't squeal too badly.

 

[Flipper_Man]

Rear Brake pads & Disc - check em regular !

Well hopefully a few less vigilant on checking wear (guilty) will avoid stumping out for a new disc now !
Might be worth doing a quick survey to compare owners that have had more than one model year GS or GSA (I'm assuming no difference in pads/disc between the two ?) and what the mileage they were getting on each ? That might assist in any chat with HO or at least make them aware.
Perhaps everyone isn't as anal as I am about recording mileage though....

If you have the info - feel free to share and I'll gather the info together.

 

[masterman21]

I have an early 2014 GSA , one of the dealer launch bikes. Its been excellent so far at 8500 miles. Checked the rear pads last week and n/side pad nearly down to the metal. Fronts still have 50% life. I very rarely use the back brake.
However , what I did notice when I got a new set of OEM rear pads , is that they appear to have been modified. The old set were the same thicknes and no backing plate. On the new pair , the n/side is the same , but the o/side has slightly thinner material and a spacer and tin retainer !

 

[OldCroc]

I had a 2008 GS and at about 12k noted that the rear was looking a little low so bought a spare OEM set. Changed the bike at about 20k - still with the same rear pads! I still have the spare pads and now have a 2010 with 7k. Pads look about half worn. I have noted on the spares I bought for the 2008 that the left and right have different thickness meat on them. I was told that this was because the piston side hits the disc first and in the end they will wear evenly.

 

[Sooty09]

Be aware, BMW will change the pads if worn out before 6000. I booked a service before 6000, it was 7000 before they could fit me in, still changed them free of charge, 2014 March reg bike.
Second set and over 12000 miles still looking good.

 

[Flipper_Man]

Silly question...

....how the hell do you check the RHS (rear) pad for wear ? Looking at the bike from the rear I can 'just' see the LHS pad. No fecking chance seeing the RHS.....and I'm not about to start taking the wheel off to check.

Are we not supposed to ? Just checked the manual and it says to check the amount of pad left.....I'm sure on previous GSA's there's been little markers on the horizontal bar the pads are fitted to - as the pad wears - the bar becomes visible ? I realise that thats just an indicator and its best to check the amount of pad remaining......but if I can't see the fuckers - how can I check em ?!

 

[Nice 'n' Fat]

Why can't you just remove the caliper to have proper look?

 

[ButtonMoon]

Changed a tyre here in Morocco yesterday looked at my pads & had to change them. Only 4,800 miles discs will be next.


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[JohnnyBoxer]

....how the hell do you check the RHS (rear) pad for wear ? Looking at the bike from the rear I can 'just' see the LHS pad. No fecking chance seeing the RHS.....and I'm not about to start taking the wheel off to check.

Are we not supposed to ? Just checked the manual and it says to check the amount of pad left.....I'm sure on previous GSA's there's been little markers on the horizontal bar the pads are fitted to - as the pad wears - the bar becomes visible ? I realise that thats just an indicator and its best to check the amount of pad remaining......but if I can't see the fuckers - how can I check em ?!

Take the caliper off, 5 min job

 

[Engineer]

Take the caliper off, 5 min job

You forgot to say don't touch the brake lever otherwise it could be more than 5 mins

 

[Paul S]

No need - you can see both sides easy enough with wheel and caliper in place

.....using a torch helps you see the "inside" pad more clearly.

 

[Flipper_Man]

No need - you can see both sides easy enough with wheel and caliper in place

.....using a torch helps you see the "inside" pad more clearly.

Challenge accepted - looking forward to you posting an image that demonstrates you can !

Ref other posts - "Take the calliper off" is not an option and surely can't be an acceptable approach for a 'regular check'. You'll have me taking the ends off the pots next to see if there's enough oil in there

 

[pistole]

Both pads visible

 

[Paul S]

Challenge accepted - looking forward to you posting an image that demonstrates you can !

Seeing both sides is a piece of piss but you will need to get down on your knees which may get your twat suit a little dusty!!!!

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[Titto]

FlipperMan, its not that bad, you can see the pads clearly enough! And they are easy to take out too if you fancy a hands on check. Back wheel comes off within 45 seconds!