And scrape out any muck from the bolt heads too... make sure you're getting full penetration into the bolt head.
Rear Disc Bolts - Any tips for extracting?
- Thread starter Gerbs
- Start date
That's a very important point as they are not deep. Interestingly I have replaced a few discs on different bikes and have never needed to use heat at all. I guess cleaning out, using decent tools and a good technique all help.
funny how we all do the same job differently .
I , heat up the hub with a hot air gun or a blow torch , then i apply a steady pressure to my preferred long ratchet/breaker bar , until something gives i ( hopefully the fastener ) .
some will not like this bit , if there is factory Loctite on the bolts , i remove it , and use medium strength threadlock from Wurth , but only apply it to the first 5-6 threads , as winding it in it will smear to the threads further up the screw.
I , heat up the hub with a hot air gun or a blow torch , then i apply a steady pressure to my preferred long ratchet/breaker bar , until something gives i ( hopefully the fastener ) .
some will not like this bit , if there is factory Loctite on the bolts , i remove it , and use medium strength threadlock from Wurth , but only apply it to the first 5-6 threads , as winding it in it will smear to the threads further up the screw.
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2015
- Messages
- 13,190
- Reaction score
- 5,227
I believe Halfords Pro have a lifetime warranty like SnapOn, so if you break it you can get it replaced (check before you buy in case I’m talking shite)
correct. I mistakenly used the hollow point version on a bolt on my Yamaha Tracer when removing it to fit a Givi luggage rack. It snapped before the bolt moved. Wandered over to the Halfords on my local retail park and came away with a free replacement.
If heat is only just working, my first thought is, the bolt is not hot enough. With a general heat, it all has to get really very hot. Hence a direct flame like Steptoe's gas torch or my suggestion. Even then, it takes a little longer than you might think...and perhaps hotter that you realise..
Buy the Halfords Professional range, they come with a lifetime guarantee which I used when I snapped a 40 torx bit.. straight replacement with no fuss.
Do not use an impact gun on BMW disc bolts without heating them first. They may just strip out.
You must melt the thread lock. MUST!!
I wouldn't use a powered impact gun at all really.
These bolts have very shallow and soft heads that just love to round out.
If you must impact them, I recommend a manual impact tool.
These are inexpensive. When you strike the tool it bites hard into the bolt and turns it a few degrees.
I use this kind of tool a lot with engine bars and corroded fasteners. They are far more effective than impact guns and grip MUCH better.. So you're far less likely to strip anything.
Buy a set of 1/2 Torx impact sockets to go with it. (The tool head comes off to take 1/2" sockets)
Just be aware of what your hitting. A solid wheel hub is fine to whack into. A fragile magnesium engine case is not..
With this tool your success rate is 90%
You must melt the thread lock. MUST!!
I wouldn't use a powered impact gun at all really.
These bolts have very shallow and soft heads that just love to round out.
If you must impact them, I recommend a manual impact tool.
These are inexpensive. When you strike the tool it bites hard into the bolt and turns it a few degrees.
I use this kind of tool a lot with engine bars and corroded fasteners. They are far more effective than impact guns and grip MUCH better.. So you're far less likely to strip anything.
Buy a set of 1/2 Torx impact sockets to go with it. (The tool head comes off to take 1/2" sockets)
Just be aware of what your hitting. A solid wheel hub is fine to whack into. A fragile magnesium engine case is not..
With this tool your success rate is 90%
Attachments
Last edited:
Front and rear are different stories.
Well, I'm still stuck with 1 bolt in the disc. I've tried it all from heating to freezing, tapping and banging.
I might have better access and won't need to be so gentle with the heat if I can remove the flange and then work on the bolt off the bike. Is it just the one circlip holding the flange on?
Nice twisted impact bit. I might frame it :|
I might have better access and won't need to be so gentle with the heat if I can remove the flange and then work on the bolt off the bike. Is it just the one circlip holding the flange on?
Nice twisted impact bit. I might frame it :|
as a way of heating the bolt to a higher temperature to soften the thread lock could you get a sacrificial torx bit really hot and then put it in the bolt a few times and then use a new torx bit to undo the bolt?
would a "torx plus" bit fit and allow the bolt to be undone
would a "torx plus" bit fit and allow the bolt to be undone
Sorry but that looks a bit pathetic for this type of job.You need some proper torx bits,proper heavy duty stuff.What make is that.
is the bolt complete ? as in just chewed not snapped off ?
if so use the hole in the head as a guide ,for the centre line , if you are going to drill it out
if so use the hole in the head as a guide ,for the centre line , if you are going to drill it out
Similar threads